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stickstalker54

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Posts posted by stickstalker54

  1. I have an Irwin Japanese pull saw which has seen me through 5 years of stick making then 3 years of general woodwook and though it's lost a few teeth still works very well, it has inter changeable blades but in the 8 year i have had it i haven't been able to find anyone that stocks them so if anyone knows where they can be found in the UK i would be very grateful to know, cheers for now Pete.

  2. Hi all, fantastic bench, great work mate, i made a similar type of seat using 2 large oak rings which were more rounded so made it into a rocking seat, it had to be made outside in the middle of one of our very rare hot spells last summer which was drying out the oak rings very quickly so i did as Steve suggests and drilled a 25mm through the middle of each ring and was constantly painting them with Danish oil, although i did get a couple of shakes they weren't too bad and they actually added to the character of the seat, i agree with your comment Nepia "photo's rarely do justice to the subjects". Cheers for now Pete.

  3. Hi Rob, sent you a bit of info in a PM don't do anything to the shanks until they have seasoned for a year then your first job is to straighten them then put your handle or top on rubbing them down with wire or steel wool is the last thing you do before varnishing or oiling. Cheers for now Pete.

  4. Hi Rob, the ideal stick or shank should be 25mm at the marriage "where the shank is joined to the chosen handle" hazel is best left with bark on, when they are fully seasoned and after trimming off any little branches and sanding them you will find the bark is flaking, simply give the shank a good rubbing down with fine wire wool then wipe clean with a slightly damp clothe, the best finish is to use is TRU OIL which is what is used on gun stocks, gives a really hard finish and doesn't yellow in time like most varnishes, send me a private message and i'll send you my email address and some links to suppliers and i'll help you all i can, stick making is a great hobby and after years of doing it myself i had to pack in due to arthritis in my hands, cheers for now, Pete.

  5. Hi, a mate of mine is looking to buy a saw purely for cutting logs for firewood, i'm no expert so i thought i would ask advice on here, probably will only be used maybe a couple of times per week for an hour or two each time so doesn't want to break the bank, can i ask are Mitox any good for this type of work ??? cheers for now, Pete.

  6. Hi, i had a nice piece of burred oak which i decided to carve into a mushroom on Wednesday, 2 sides of the oak were covered in a very thick moss and when cutting it gave off a musky smell, after a while i had to stop working on it as i was having trouble breathing "i was wearing a mask" i ended up with the very same symptoms as Tree;Tment and was very ill that night, i was 5 minutes away from calling an ambulance as i was struggling for breathe and in severe pain, i must have then fallen asleep and new nothing until the next morning, i had slept for 9-1/2 hours, my breathing was much better and is now fine but i am still getting a lot of joint pain and still very weak, is this due to spores in the moss ???? Take care, cheers for now Pete.

  7. Hi all, not sure if i'm in the right place here but here goes, i bought a new chain for my Ryobi 4450c with 20'' bar, i decided to store it and continue using the old chain as i was roughing out a large piece of Beach for an all in one garden seat which i had found an old nail in the heartwood so wasn't going to risk a new chain, anyway i went to replace the chain yesterday and found it to be around 4'' to long, both the old chain and the new one have 78 drive links, old chain has number 95 on the drive links and the new one has number 91. i'm totally confused as is the guy that sold it to me, anyone got an explanation please, cheers for now Peter.

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