judastreefairy

On 18/08/2024 at 21:54, PeteB said:

Caz and I were just going in to our local Co Op to see a younger bloke rushing in. Before we got to the door, he rushed out and ran across the carpark! He was clutching two bottles of wine and just legged it out and looked back as he got to the edge of the property. My lad works in Retail at a local Morrison's and amazes us with tales of the daily occurances of theft and how little is done to curb this crime. The Police cannot get there quick enough, often, the CPS cannot prosecute, they cannot put up pictures of the thief's mugs, thief's think that they will be unchallenged as they are gypsy's,  foreign nationals, racial minorities,  homeless or just don't care that they are thieving! 

 

Don't know what the answer is...

Or maybe they need to get wasted to numb there pain , possibly from bad stuff that would make you think twice, I say fair game.

As they are!!

On 15/08/2024 at 11:16, kram said:

You dont need a £500 saw. I think the maximum bar length is 16" but that doesnt mean you cant fit a shorter bar on a more useful, bigger saw.

I did my CS31 with a cheapy McCulloch CS340 16" that Lidl were selling for £99. My trainer/assessors saws were not in good running condition so thats why I insisted I use my own. The cs340 did the job but is far less powerful than a pro saw of the same engine size, so wouldnt recommed it.

 

Whatever saw you use must have the warning labels, but you can buy the stickers off ebay should you get a used saw or import thats missing them.

 

I know most dislike the pattern/clone saws but

I am quite happy with my Farmertec G372XP, its a bit bigger than they might expect, you can fit a 16" bar no issue. At 72cc it has enough power for most ground work. I see little point in also having a 35-60cc ground saw when this can do everything.

(It did not come with the warning stickers)

 

71cc Holzfforma Gasoline G372XP Top Quality For Husqvarna 372XP NO Bar & Chain

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

---

Chainsaw type Holzfforma single cylinder 2 stroke engine. Chain Sprocket Standard 7 tooth 3/8" pitch. Total Mass Without bar and chain 6.8kgs...

 

 

Sod that!!! Do you want arms at the end of the day 💆‍♂️💆‍♂️ 550 mk2 

3 hours ago, Brushcutter said:

I tend to pick up my 542 more than the 540. If that is a better answer. 

5 batteries later, half chisel grinded the gauges 

3 hours ago, Brushcutter said:

540i tends to bog when you lean on it and if you want to bore with it, it's not happy about it. It runs .325 .043 out the box. 

 

The 542i you get the clutch which takes a second to spun up but because of the clutch it's much more like a regular saw. You can push it a bit harder than the 540i. Most 542 come with .325 .050 and can do it too. I've not put the smaller guage on the 542 yet.

 

If your cutting up to.4 inches I'm not totally sure you will notice much difference. Over that the clutched one all day long. 

RIP saw 201t that’ll get you dusting marra

On 05/06/2024 at 09:55, Stan1664 said:

My friend gave me a Hexa chains for my Husqvarna 61 oh wow I’m newish and very impressed with the hexa chain, I normally use Stihl chains Picco, can definitely tell the difference in cutting and ringing.

Who here prefers hexa chains and what  chainsaw do you use with it on ?

I reckon it’s all down to how well you sharpen, depth gauges down , shiny cutter 

14 hours ago, sandspider said:

Thanks chaps.

 

Hadn't thought of putting a flexi hose and new coupler on mine, will see if I can figure out the thread etc. If not I'll look at the other suggestions.

 

Cheers.

Stop being a tight ass and buy a electric makita

Well i'm afraid your going to have to eat it then, too me it looks like a Skegness ash but that's only my opinion.

11 hours ago, Stihl123 said:

not to be an idiot and derail but is there a reason it must be a skid and not an avant

even if it's the smallest one, the 220 has the same lift capacity 

 

the little avants will only lift 1.4 meters high though, if that's an issue

 

does alot less grass damage 

 

only saying as i went from an M10x skidster to an Avant 218 and for me, it was alot better, but the lack of lift compared was bad.

 

got a bigger avant now

 

 

2019 AVANT 220 PETROL ARTICULATED WHEEL LOADER MULTI ONE WITH FORKS & BUCKET

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

---

Manufactured in 2019 - Only 192 hours use from new. Twin cylinder Kohler petrol engine. Powered articulated steering. Avant 220 Loader. Can be towed on a trailer. Hydrostatic 4...

 

423 if the pennys arent there other wise, 528 just reet  youll get the  6 series grass tyres on her if you ask, keep the narrow stock ones. nothing more nothing less.  

I think get the bad lad Collins out marra

Ow no not forst!!!

8 minutes ago, topchippyles said:

Shut up you tart it was a reasonable question.

1-0 Ecuador 

7 minutes ago, topchippyles said:

Shut up you tart it was a reasonable question.

Bit nosey if you ask me😁☝️

23 hours ago, marktownend said:

Which country are they in? One of my pet hates on forums is people not giving their location, so you could be in Ecuador for all I know, and I know even less about the timber market there than I do about the UK market.

 

Personally the only slabs I've sold went directly to a furniture maker I already knew.

Suppose you want to know what he’s having for his tea aswell?

If you can dodge a wrench!! You can dodge a ball!!!!

You clever duck🖕

On 04/04/2024 at 15:42, Rich Rule said:

Why not read the first post and follow the instructions?

It clearly says …

 

 

Please contact - Jason Smith 07902716671

email. [email protected]

www.pls-group.co.uk

 

I didn’t see the part where it states to “pm me hun!”

 

Rich rules kiss my ass

https://honeybros.com/shop/new-sale-shack/sale-items/buckingham-alloy-big-buck-climber-kit/?glCountry=GB&glCurrency=GBP&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZmwBhD8ARIsAH4v1gWgyhVqCYbxz7TS571apjFqbs8plxFdemgKCnnUFYdXBCCkfmLtjKUaAlVFEALw_wcB

On 28/03/2024 at 00:25, FlyFishn said:

In another thread I was asking about larger saws, so I'll keep that subject there.

I am also looking at smaller/lighter saws. I was originally thinking something at most 40cc, maybe in the mid 30's. However, looking at the Husq and Stihl options they dont appear to have a professional grade saw that small with a rear handle.

I've run a top handle Stihl before, and although I really do like it for cutting down smaller limbs, I don't think its the right type of saw for how I am intending to use it. I still think a rear handle traditional saw is going to work better.

Dad has a small stihl I've used and worked on before. I don't recall the model, but it is a homeowner grade saw for sure. That is what I don't want.

The bar length I am wanting is 14" with possibly a 16" as an option. The goal is to have a lighter, more maneuverable saw.

Down the road a top handle is on the list, but I'm not sure I want to go that route this round.

What thoughts do you have?

If you was a dog I’d have you put down 👌 just buy the saw , don’t be scared!!!

49 minutes ago, Botty Cough said:

Not had a troubles with the 151 yet.

Going to stick it in some big Mac on Tuesday and see how it goes.

 

Good luck!!! Good luck!!! Good luck!!!

1 hour ago, Ledburyjosh said:

Yup I found the msa220 horid and lacking power.

 

 

Husky’s 540 the best hands down , but the bar’s shit same as the chain, comes off constantly, if you watch it going round there’s a massive gap.

On 21/03/2024 at 11:53, sime42 said:

Good point, what is the theory behind painting the lower portion of tree trunks white? I keep meaning to raise the question on here. It's a definite continental thing, I've seen it all over Europe, more so in Central and Eastern Europe and round the med. Also in China.

I've seen a couple of reasons;- to protect the trees from sun and insect damage. Don't really buy either of those though.

 

What's going on?

 

Wannabe jacque montii’s

1 hour ago, WeleaseWoderwick said:

Good evening,

 

I would really appreciate some advice about taking out a Cypress near to a house. I'll explaint the situation and what I know of the soil conditions and history and I have one or two photos.

 

We're buying a house. It's a fairly typical 1930s semi detached. We will be doing the usual kitchen extension. In the back garden within 6.5m of the house there is a mature Cypress tree. I think it is probably a Leylandi, which I also think is quite a high water demand tree. When we do the extension this tree will be sitting in the patio and dropping needles and cones all over the dining area plus blocking all the light into the back of the house. God knows why the little old lady who lived here prior planted it. Anyway whether the tree is coming out or not is irrelevent. It is coming out. The question is 'how?'

 

We are on good terms with our new neighbours. The tree overhangs their boundary and they are keen to see it go. They have an extension already, built first in 2001 and then when they moved in they demolished it and built a new extension on top of the existing foundations. The tree is within around 3m of their extension. They had agreed its removal last year because it was dropping all over their patio, but the little old lady bottled it at the last minute and in the end they agreed to crown it and lopped off every single bough overhanging the fence line. It is now about 10-15m tall and lopsided. I would estimate they've reduced it by >60% already.

 

Neither of the buildings have any evidence of subsidence or cracking. They are rendered, so if we had the typical step-like cracks it would be pretty obvious. These houses are all built on concrete raft foundations, and that is a consequence of the local ground conditions that I'll explain now.

 

The site is basically an old quarry that was excavated for gravel in the 1920s and then backfilled with industrial waste - rubble basically. The old Bank of England is down there somewhere, apparently. There is a layer of topsoil, which I estimate extends downwards for 1m before the rubble layer which goes all the way down as far as I know to the London Clay layer 9m below the surface. We have drains around 6m from the tree, and they have rubble in them so they have obviously been breached, presumably by roots. This implies the roots stretch 6m or so and are reasonably shallow. 1-2m deep max.

 

Here is a photograph:

 

My question is simply can we take this straight out or are we into reducing it further? When is the optimum time to do it? The schools of thought I've read online are:

1) Reduce it by 25% per year until it's < 30% of origial size and then take it out

2) Doing the above exacerbates soil recovery time so best just to crack on and wait 2 seasons before building

3) If there is no evidence of subsidence already then the tree can go, but best to wait until maximum soil dryness in late summer / early autumn to minimise any swelling problems (clay assumed).

 

We have not done any soil or ground investigations, but did talk to a groundsman at a nearby property on the same estate who was installing a sex pond / jacuzzi, he had exposed the rubble layer and said the topsoil was loamy.

 

Looking forward to any advice you guys can give. Hope that's enough information and not TLDR.

Thank you!

Too much thinking, more cutting 👍👍

7 hours ago, river_thames said:

Heya what would you do? - I need a new van. I found just the one I'm after, but they are made to order.

 

Here is the link

 

They pretty much want payment up front, which is kind of understandable for made to order. I've had a couple of chats, and he's pretty salesy. The problem I have is that they are approx. 300 miles away. I can't find any real reviews or anything like that. I don't fancy doing this on trust alone.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts, advice or experience?

 

For what it's worth, I'm after a Euro 6, Tipper, Sprinter or Transit, Automatic, High solid alloy sides, 

 

Primarily garden clearance, so need for true arb body.

7 hours ago, river_thames said:

Heya what would you do? - I need a new van. I found just the one I'm after, but they are made to order.

 

Here is the link

 

They pretty much want payment up front, which is kind of understandable for made to order. I've had a couple of chats, and he's pretty salesy. The problem I have is that they are approx. 300 miles away. I can't find any real reviews or anything like that. I don't fancy doing this on trust alone.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts, advice or experience?

 

For what it's worth, I'm after a Euro 6, Tipper, Sprinter or Transit, Automatic, High solid alloy sides, 

 

Primarily garden clearance, so need for true arb body.

 

Thank you.

No rear double wheels!!! I’m afraid I’m out🥲

Yay 

8 hours ago, Timbo said:

Bought an Multitel SMX 250.2 in 2021. Best business decision I’ve made. We carry work on a lot of school sites so always multiple trees to work on with good access. We crack out work combining MEWP/climbing on average 50% faster than before. Reduction work is higher quality too. If I can get the MEWP to the tree we will always use it. It won’t replace climbing totally, but combined with an Avant/loader it’s extremely efficient. The restriction with the Multitel is that it can’t go ‘low’ very easily (for hedges etc). I’d be interested in having a demo with the CELA DT25- looks like an excellent machine too. 

What weight at 10m outreach? 230kg?