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Negundo

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Posts posted by Negundo

  1. Is the RR not meeting your expectations? I would really like a comparison of these two products. On the one hand the RR can be LOLER tested, whereas the Bone can not, as yet(as far as I've understood), yet the Bone seems smoother... Has anyone compared these products yet? Cheers!

     

    I have had the bone since early summer. The runner just a month longer. In my opinion they both kick equal amounts of ass. The bone is the easiest thing to take on and off a rope EVER. But beyond that, they are very much neck and neck for me. Really I go back and forth regularly. I love them both so much. Buy one, then once you have recovered financially buy the other. Unless you are going to be doing DSRT then you should have two of one or the other.

     

    In all honesty I WILL NOT go back to hitch cordage. And I used to love hitch cordage.

  2. I often use a base anchor that incorporates a friction hitch to allow lowering from the ground. Even that is easy to set up. My most common basal anchor is wraps around the trunk with a bite coming up underneath them to anchor to the leg of line running up the trunk. I tie a midline knot in the bite and use a delta link to connect to the anchor leg. It can be removed even if it gets loaded. But the wraps usually keep it from loading.

  3. I've been using the new bulldog bone for the last week, and it is awesome. It keeps up perfectly with the rope runner. It disengages for descent really easily. And it is hands down the easiest thing to get on and off a line. Even faster than Hitch cord and such. Great new tool. These tools (bone, rope runner) are the future of friction management.

  4. The wrench is ok off to one side, but I would look into a stiff tether that has legs so it goes on either side of the hitchclimber beckets. Its going to keep the wrench a lot more stationary. I know honey bros just started selling one.

     

    I climb on tachyon and imori with an 8 mil. armor prus eye to eye. I tie a seven wrap michoacan. I weigh around 200 lb, sorry don't know what that is in stones. :)

  5. I have found myself in many situations where having a second TIP made me more securely positioned. I utilize it most often if I am removing a compromised tree and have another tree to tie in to. DRT is a really simple and versatile tool to have in the box. We work in a profession with myriad ways to skin myriad cats. It is just a matter of being proficient in as many techniques as possible, so you are ready to skin any cat any day. Sorry cat people.

     

    As long as fool laws don't get passed that have no concept of my daily work, I will be happy

  6. I would recommend getting a HAAS "knee" ascender. Helps you rely more on your legs than arms. Much more economy of movement. Than say a handled ascender with a footloop. I climbed on tachyon SRT daily for a long time, and really enjoyed it. I think it's a great rope, especially if you think you will switch over to ddrt occasionally.

     

    I think it will take about six months to a year to "adapt" fully. You will find base and canopy anchors to be case specific. The more you climb, the more you will figure out when each is more appropriate.

     

    I know a bunch of people who go back and forth between ddrt and SRT. I do not. I think there are cases where SRT is more efficient, and cases where it is a toss up. I prefer to just SRT. But that is totally just my preference.

  7. Nah, that was all oceans. He floated the idea to one of the fellas from arbpro at a conference last year. He had a strap stitched to his shoe for like a year before that. He's a forward thinker.

     

    I'm not sure anyone knows yet when they will be released. But it should be soon. Everybody involved seems to be pretty excited

  8. We did work for a large scale bakery/food distributor, and at the end of the day they gave the four of us a case of 24 "Chester's" which are a local treat. ice cream sandwiches made with chocolate chip cookies. And my home was two blocks away, so we could actually save most for later in my freezer. Best tip ever.

  9. I would not mention how and where anything is marked on a public forum. Try the members only forum. At least you may have a little more reassurance that another member instead of a theif is gathering intel for his next collection of inventory.

    easy-lift guy

    I live in VT, most of these guys are brits, with nicer chainsaws than ours. I'm not terribly worried :biggrin:

  10. I think TCIA and everyone else who scoffs at the two man minimum, will be doing a 180 in the near future. When I saw John Balls presentation at expo last year he related the story (with pictures) of a groundie who lost an arm in the chipper, which almost never happens. The only reason he didn't get et was his buddy passing by the chipper as it happened, and hitting the reverse. The victim said he had no idea what had happened, no time to process, let alone grab the o Jesus strings, but his buddy did. That was just a twelve or fifteen inch as well. Not even one of these whole tree monstrocities.

  11. I've just purchase some new equipment, ranging from hand tools, to some bigger stuff. I was wanting to cut down the likelihood of theft and increase the likelihood of getting it back if stolen. So how do you mark your stuff, branding, sign writing, repaint in your colours, smart water, engraving etc? What is best practice?

     

    Any thoughts?

     

    My employer melts the date he bought it into some plastic part of chainsaws that can't be readily taken off and replaced, generally the handle. It's mostly for tracking when saws need to be retired instead of repaired, but serves a dual purpose.

  12. I've had my dmm swivel for about six months, and that wear spot appears to be just a rounding of the interior surface. Once it gets round the wear slows. After a few years there will be a noticeable groove, thinking about getting a rook for the next bridge attachment.

     

    Had the same happen with a petzl. I retired it after a few years, had it break tested and it still broke at specified strength. Broke at the center, not at worn point.

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