Dinosaw

Great! Thanks for clearing that up!

2 minutes ago, adw said:

This is the carb heater, remove the pad from between the air filter holder, remove the thermostat from the top of the carb, remove the two wires connected to the pad, now throw it all in the dustbin it is not need in the UK, you now have a wire from the generator, this connects to one of the wires from the top handle, the other wire from the top handle fits to the switch, the wire from the other side of the switch goes to the rear handle pad, then a wire from the rear pad sits under a earth screw on the side of the crankcase, so basically you sholud have continuity  through the top handle, throughn the rear handle and to eart with the switch on, i call itb a switch but is a rotery plate that joins the wires to make a circuit.

Hi adw, thanks for that. None of the handle wiring seems to have been disturbed, I understand there is no need for this carb heater here but if I just snip it off does it upset the heater wiring to the handles?

Hi Steve, If you look at the pic it is joined to the heater plate at one end, it's what I do with the loose end is the problem. Perhaps another pic will help.

Bought the above as a box of bits that the owner (understandably) couldn't put back together! My question concerns the carb heater pad which has a stray wire on it that I don't know how to position. I assume it is a ground wire but I have no idea where it goes. Help!

Wish I only had three saws in my garage.......

It was so cold on Thursday, had the 242xpg out. Warm as toast, who could want for more, especially with its naughty exhaust....

Started this morning again, ok but a little tight for a little saw. Anyway, runs up fine and tick over a treat now. Advertised today. I need to sell some saws as I am overrun with small ones.....

2 hours ago, spudulike said:

Build up of oil from the fuel mix around the rings and bore...got to be and bet now it has run up and burnt the oil off, it is easier to pull over! 

Glad you got there in the end though!

Ah, but but but! Having dismantled it, checked rings were free, cleaned pot with w&d and WD40 and then given it a good scrub in hot soapy water, I'm inclined to think it responded to some selected language this morning.... 

On 24 October 2020 at 22:03, Khriss said:

Shit.... We been waiting on this  !!  K

Ok, fuelled up this morning, still pulled over with difficulty but in desperation, I gave it a shot of WD40 down the plug hole. Eased up and with a small injection of fuel up the hole, started! Needs a tune but what the hell, I'll do it later. Off to my, perfect nick, OleoMac 2640 that I haven't started for two years. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments.

On 18 October 2020 at 09:30, spudulike said:

Well..............what happened????

Oh! Sorry Steve, only finished putting it back together today as have been doing other saws. Couldn't find anything wrong at all, haven't tried to start it yet but still very firm on the starter. Will post back upon the morrow!

Try the manualslib site, no signing up nonsense and free.

That's what I thought Steve, as I do the same thing but he says that he leaves the bolts and nuts on and then put the whole thing back in the frame. Can't see that at all.

On 8 October 2020 at 20:48, bmp01 said:

Ah-ha, my pictures weren't  clear then !

What you see in those pictures goes straight into the housing as is - compete with fasteners. Further set of nuts to clamp the engine into the housing rather than the std bolts. This was a solution I put together after those long bolts came undone in use - big air leak. 

 

 

How does that work? Those bottom nuts must raise the motor unit by 4mm or so and the same amount for the clutch and flywheel. Can't see that at all.

On 07/10/2020 at 09:21, bmp01 said:

I'd like to see them put these engines into the housing in the factory. Seems to be a real puzzle wiggling it into place while the engine pan is sitting loosely on the upper clamshell. Prefer the older 170/180 in that respect - still a fiddle but at least the engine is assembled tight at that stage. 

Here's what I did to a 181.... makes life a lot easier but not exactly practical for a DIY. 

That's what I do and then leave it for 24hours for the sealing material to go off. Pity they don't bolt up before you fit them though. Put manifold back on today, will let you know what happens when I've finished.

On 5 October 2020 at 16:37, spudulike said:

Sharp wood chisel on the old gasket. 

My money is still on old oil causing Mega compression, seen that before. It is usually this or fuel in the crankcase causing a lock. 

Just reassemble after cleaning the bore with WD40. Use no oil and try it again. Reckon it will be back to normal! 

Sorry Spud, not a trace of any old oil anywhere, not tight bits on crank, bearings excellent. Just started reassembling and forgot to put the manifold on. Idiot!

2 hours ago, bmp01 said:

Presume it's a standard piston  (not aftermarket) and there isn't a mega amount of carbon on piston or in the combustion chamber ?

Pulley normal size, piston and barrel original stihl, with very little wear. No abnormal carbon buildup in combustion chamber. As stated earlier, this is a saw that has seen very little use. Starter cover looks like a straight swap for a 211 with nothing wrong with the action. How do you lot get the sealant off the clamshell joint? And thanks for all the input!

On 27/09/2020 at 09:52, spudulike said:

Saws that have been run on an oil heavy fuel mix when left standing evaporate all the fuel from the cylinder bore leaving oil. This can REALLY seal a healthy engine. You may have this phenomena. A few squirts of WD40/GT85 down the plug hole and pulling it over hard a few times will help dissipate it and then try it again.

I can't help but think it is this.

The only other thing left is something has come loose and is catching between the flywheel/clutch and the casing/engine but would have thought that this would also happen with the plug out as well.

The last thing to note is as you pull the starter, is the engine jamming up as the piston comes up past the exhaust port to create secondary compression or is it random or another part of the cycle? This can help a diagnosis.

Hi Guys, Episode 2: Have taken saw apart to find crankcase absolutely clean, no dodgy bearing, nothing loose or any gooey cack  anywhere. Saw has standard 211 starter without easy start even though it says it's a 211c on the label. Combustion chamber also v. clean. How do you get the old joint sealant off? Beginning to think that Stubby's breakfast advice is worth listening to.....

21 hours ago, bmp01 said:

Find anything out of the ordinary ?

Was a bit busy. Have stripped it but not removed barrel yet. I hate clamshell saws! I'll let you know what I find upon the morrow!

16 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Saws that have been run on an oil heavy fuel mix when left standing evaporate all the fuel from the cylinder bore leaving oil. This can REALLY seal a healthy engine. You may have this phenomena. A few squirts of WD40/GT85 down the plug hole and pulling it over hard a few times will help dissipate it and then try it again.

I can't help but think it is this.

The only other thing left is something has come loose and is catching between the flywheel/clutch and the casing/engine but would have thought that this would also happen with the plug out as well.

The last thing to note is as you pull the starter, is the engine jamming up as the piston comes up past the exhaust port to create secondary compression or is it random or another part of the cycle? This can help a diagnosis.

Definitely gets tighter as it passes the exhaust port. I thought that somehow some chain oil had got into the crankcase but it's been upside down for 24 hours and not a single drip. Going to dismantle it this afternoon.

1 hour ago, spudulike said:

Pull the plug out, turn the saw upside down so the plug hole is pointing downwards and pull it over hard for 5-10 times. 

You should get a fair bit of fuel mix running out of the plug hole. Let it dry out and try again.

Hi Steve, First thing I did, absolutely clear, nothing there. As I said earlier, pulls over fine with no plug in. With plug in it will still turn over but with a great deal of difficulty. Ridiculous on such a small saw. Thanks for your two pennorth!

1 hour ago, bmp01 said:

Is that the "Easy Start" model being the 'C' ? If so, it's got an extra spring between the pull cord and the crank....  I'd be looking there. Actually, I'd take that start cover off, toss it over my shoulder and reach for a standard side cover to try. 

 

I was just starting to consider that possibility myself, if it is an easy start model, that's definitely not working!

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

Need a good breakfast ?

I had an excellent breakfast, thank you Stubby! Yesterday's was no help either!

Flywheel not catching, as I said it turns over perfectly, no strange feeling or noises, without the plug in. No excess carbon in combustion chamber. Never come across this before..

Correct plug, have removed exhaust, clean as a whistle.

Hi Guys

211c I took in part-ex. Very little use. Turns over perfectly without the sparkplug. Replace plug and it is like pulling over a 1000cc saw. No fuel in crankcase, piston clean and smooth. Can't even pull it over properly to get a reading on compression tester. Ideas very welcome, got me stumped. TIA.