Couldyajust

Just done a search and couldn't find anything, so apologies if it's been asked before.

 

Went to adjust my new 360 slightly this afternoon, and realised my standard orange Stihl screwdriver won't work on this carb! Never checked that before leaving the dealer...

 

Anyone know what tool is needed to adjust the carb, and where I can get one from please?

Don't have my 360 to hand but it is either D or double D if I recall correctly.

Get yourself a set of these, they are cheap & cover all the newer variations on carb screws.

Set Of 4 Carb Carburettor Adjusting Tools Suit WALBRO ZAMA. Comes With Case | eBay

They're lucky criminals in Caerdydd would rather have cheap PVC doors rather than proper secure ones like this.

[ame]

Bought myself a slightly larger wee chipper at an auction last Friday an 18HP Cramer HS450 wants a new air filter, a good clean & the blades sharpening then I will have to shop around for the best blade & belt prices I can find to ensure I have spares to hand but seems to be running ok.

Won't get into as tight a space as my 5HP Rover chipper will but handles bigger material & should help bridge the gap between that & the big chipper.

Me thinks the advertising description/ marketing has been ever such slightly exaggerated.

cheers, steve

I think they make things up as they go along anyway.

Husky 365 24" chain on their site (£24.19 for 2 chains).

Piranha Chains For Husqvarna Chainsaws

Ebay price for 2 24" husky 365 chains (£18.38).

GENUINE PIRANHA CHAINSAW SAW CHAIN *PACK OF 2* FITS HUSQVARNA 365 24" BAR | eBay

At first glance ebay sounds a better deal but when you look at the details you see the chain gauge is different (063 on the ebay one) making those chains completely useless. No point contacting them to ask them to sell you the correct chain as they don't reply to messages.

Does seem a bit odd that they publish quotes from & link to this thread as part of their advertising though as they have stopped posting on it themselves & the negative comments are monting up quite quickly now.

Piranha Becomes Rotatech Chainsaw Chains

just ordered one from here

 

£270 including delivery at that price had to have one! i'll let you know if it never turns up etc

Same company I got my 360TES from. Took a week to arrive, no PDI but ran fine straight out the box.

£39.99 + vat for 25L super sexy chain oil at the mo

Very different oil though the Exol heavy oil is a very thick gloopy oil the Super Sexy/Oregon oil is very thin.

I stopped using Oregon oil when it became so thin as I have always found a thicker oil suits me better.

Exol heavy chain oil (L048) has just gone up.

I bought 25L today price sticker said £43+vat same as usual computer at checkout said £49+vat, they said £43 is what they are paying now but honoured marked price & went off to change all the stickers in a hurry.

If you decide to consider an Echo saw then the 2 models in that price range worth looking at are the CS-620SX or the CS-501SX. Multiple threads on here discussing them if you want to do a bit of research.

Parts are readily available for Echo saws but are rarely needed. No Autotune to go wrong they have proper carbs.

Guys with the 360tes, what bar chain combo are you using? Brand and size

Started with the stock 14" Echo branded Tsumura bar but managed to track down a 12" Echo/Tsumura which is far more suitable. Chain brand is whatever I have to hand on a roll when making loops in 3/8 LP currently it is Oregon.

To give you an idea what you would be competing against.

My Echo CS-8002 decided it didn't want to cut through a piece of angle iron which had been absorbed into a tree about 30 years ago with no outward indication it was there resulting in a knackered chain & snapped tensioner screw.

Went to order from Abbey Garden Sales online parts dept on the 6th as I know they sell Echo parts.

My model was not listed so had to look up part numbers elsewhere then type in part numbers for the 3 components of the tensioner in their search box.

Ordered 2 of each part, was charged £7.99 P+P ordered anyway as I need that saw running.

Heard nothing until the 11th when I got an email saying order had been dispatched.

Arrived in a jiffy bag on the 13th, marked sent as second class post.

Shouldn't be too hard to beat that service.

It sounds ridiculous but I sell my own logs !! I cut plenty of trees down but never have anything of the size I'm after ... I'm after roughly 1meter high by meter wide !!

It didn't put the fraction symbol in half metre by half metre

If you were closer I would happily fill a trailer with blocks in both sizes mentioned free of charge subject to the condition that I could make a short video of you using one of the metre high blocks to post on here.

Could someone post a link to the firm that makes and sell these? The ebay link at the start has expired. Thanks.

Looks like they sold out so you will have to wait until they are restocked.

Ebay shop:

Scooter Wheelchair Ramps, Suitcase Ramps items in The Ramp Shop store on eBay!

Amazon shop:

The Ramp Shop @ Amazon.co.uk: Royston Resources Ltd

Company website:

Royston Resources Ltd

Do the logs need to be seasoned and dry, or would fresh cut sitka work?

Seasoned wood works considerably better, dry does not necessarily matter as you burn from the inside of the log not the outside. It will take you less than 30 seconds to make one, if you cut the log from the side rather than the top down then you can use the noodles to light it.

I have used fresh cut sitka, douglas, larch, leylandii, scots, sycamore, birch & ash to make them for my own use. All burnt fine but I only use seasoned wood & keep them dry after cutting the slots if they are being sold.

Softwood burns faster works well for light/heat hardwood burns slower & is better for cooking on.

Have you tried asking whoever you usually get your logs from? If one of my log customers asks for a chopping block I can nearly always find something suitable that can go out free with their next load of logs.

.....Also describes felling with gellignite explosive

Saw that done with a huge oak in a farmers field once. Bloke from the slate quarry came to do it. Plan was to split it in half so the danarm could get through it but it went slightly wrong, nothing left of it. He ended up with oak splinters of it in all his bales from that field & 3 surrounding fields for 5 years afterwards.

When I've done them I find if I cut the blank about 2"longer than the saw bar then cut along the length of the log rather than down the grain as it cuts faster and noodles the shavings rather than fine dust which is good for helping light the candle, either hold in a log jaw or cut a v in a larger block of wood and sit in that.

+1 for this method. Considerably faster & easier on the saw.

Sometimes I will use longer logs cut the slots then cut the candle off & start on the next one as it is slightly quicker than placing each log in the jaws individually. Generally use my Triton SuperJaws with the log jaws fitted on to clamp the logs.

I haven't opened my wallet yet either, they didn't bother replying to me on ebay so can't get chains for my saws there.

I did notice they added 100' reels of chain to the website at £149.48 + vat (£179.38 incl) with free delivery but I decided against buying the chain described as being a fraction of the cost of regular chains from them and went with a 100' reel of Windsor chain (made by Blount who also make Oregon chain) from my usual supplier for £133.55 inc vat (usual bog standard not discounted price) with free delivery saving myself £45.83 by doing nothing different to normal.

If they ever get their act together & offer proper prices on the website or list the full range on ebay at the typical prices they have there then I will try them but until that happens I can't be bothered wasting my time trying to contact them any more.

They are listed here described as spring spacer sets. Not sure what mount Makita saws use though, these are for D009.

Products for the category: Chainsaw maintenance

Also had the pleasure of Felix's company for three days last week. See if you can spot him tackling one of the jobs that I really didn't fancy!

 

You are not living up to your name there is a long line of idiots who have attempted to tackle such jobs, a few of them actually survived & proceeded to put the videos on youtube.

Decent firewood if treated right though isn't it? This is a field setting. No near boundaries or neighbour issues.

Yes leylandii is decent firewood (in a stove not on an open fire).

Any livestock about if this is in a field setting? I would avoid cherry laurel if there was as sheep, goats, cattle and horses can all be stupid enough to eat it despite it being potentially fatal to do so.

How I burn brash varies generally I start a small fire & add to it, occasionally I may take a swedish candle with me (& a few extra to sell to the customer) light that then turn it into a bonfire but usually just look around for something dry there is always something that will burn.

If someone else builds the fire & messes it up I just make a small fire on the edge of it & the wind pushes it through once it gets going.

On bigger jobs where there is tons of the stuff to get rid of & time is of the essence I am more likely to build a massive heap use old oil or diesel & push the fire in with a digger or loader depending what is to hand.

If they had arranged delivery or had been closer it definitely would of been kept to myself. As I couldn't take advantage I thought I would mention it in case it appealed to anyone else.

How can I put this?

You're talking out of your rear end.

Fairly sure I am talking from personal experience rather than from my rear end.

In the last 20 years I have only had 1 "too close to the house" customer that asked for my opinion of what is the best course of action & actually listened which on that occasion was a spectacular maple in perfect health & my advice was to do nothing the rest have made their own decisions uninfluenced & that maple is still there & aside from one squirrel damaged dead branch being removed it has not been pruned. The rest of the customers had the trees removed completely a year or two later. I also regularly get asked to remove trees that other tree surgeons have pruned within the last year or so because the clients do not want to offend the person who originally carried out the work as this is a small community where everybody knows each other.

... and ultimately, will it stand the test of being sharpened to the max and not snap?

I've been told that cheap chains snap...

Some cheap chains are made up by inexperienced people who don't join them properly leaving a weak point hence the reason they snap. I imagine Northern Arb have made up enough chains over the years to know how to do it properly.

wow well that was alot of more information than i expected. i think i going to go with pollard option and say it require regular pruning every 3 to 5 years depending on growth

Don't be surprised if you are called back to remove it before then. Customers that want massive reductions due to proximity to the house are no different to the ones who are worried because a tree is leaning or because the leaves make such a mess or say it's doubled in size since they moved in last year. Soon as they see a bit of regrowth they suddenly decide it's better off coming out. Those types of customer get on my nerves & usually get quotes that guarantee I won't be the one who has to waste time & effort doing the job.

In this instance it is an ash which is not exactly a rare tree that has previously been butchered, it is unlikely it will ever look good & the regrowth will be very vigourous with anything more than a light trim.