dga3240

Hope you get sorted, I've had no issues with mine , so far.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

Well, I got the saw back yesterday. The story is that they (MacGregors Industrial Supplies, Inverness) "have been waiting for parts from Husqvarna" but rather than keep me waiting any longer have taken a side plate off one of their new saws in stock. So I still have the toolless chain tensioner rather than the replacement spanner adjusted side plate I would prefer. Haven't tried it yet….

I suspect the saw has been sitting in their workshop for four weeks and nobody bothered to contact Husqvarna at all. I've very little wood to cut so by the time it starts playing up again it will be out of warranty.

You still need to slacken the bar, but just not with a spanner.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

No you don't, it's self slackening!

Sorry, couldn't resist!

I have to take it in to the dealers who will "have a look at it". Not very confident about that as it will be like an intermittent electrical fault in a car and never perform at the dealers. They are also a 70 mile trip away…but at least I've found the receipt. The saw was purchased new in August last year and hasn't had a lot of work.

Just found a site with a lot of reviews of these saws. Several complaints about the tool-less chain tightening, one suggesting that the chain supplied is cr*p and stretches, so maybe it does! Seems an awful lot of stretch though as it has been doing it all the time I've used it.

The chain is the original, came with the saw. Yes, I'll accept that a new chain stretches, but this is ridiculous! The saw has now done a fair bit of work. I would accept the stretch explanation if there weren't so many similar complaints on Google.

Don't know how officially measure logs but I now have at least four stacks of logs each about 15ft x 4ft x 5ft. My last saw was a Husqvarna 350 and I got through several chains with that but never had this problem before.

Thanks for the tip about the replacement part. I'll check that out.

That knob must apply the torque equivalent to using a 30mm long spanner! Crazy!

Chain regularly slackens on a new Husqvarna 450 with tool-less chain tensioner. I've done a search on here but can't find any references. I can't believe no one has had this problem!

I bought the saw new in August last year but only got to give it some serious work lately. I am cutting birch logs that were felled in January 2013 and stored outside under a sheet since. The logs are up to 20 inches in diameter.

My problem is that the chain keeps slackening. I am using the tensioner as directed in the user manual and, yes, I do lift the tip of the blade. The chain often needs re-tensioning after cutting only two or three rings from a large log. I tighten the chain tensioner knob as tightly as I can and I am no weakling. I am a farmer but reasonably competent with chain saws.

I've done a Google and I understand this arrangement for tightening the chain is used on the Stihl and some other saws. The chain becoming slack after just a few minutes is not an unknown problem and it is well documented on-line. But then others don't seem to have the problem.

Any thoughts? I am seriously considering returning this saw as "not fit for purpose" and informing Trading Standards. In my opinion, Husqvarna have slipped up badly with this design.

The occupant obviously doesn't like to be disturbed. Quite a good idea for a recluse!

Haven;t got a clue but dear Old Cyril Hart used to say it's only use was fire wood and turnery (brooms and brushes and tool handles) if that helps.

Suck it and see? I think they used to use it for making plates and bowls too.

Suffered with a chesty cough for a few years which culminated in my coughing up lumps with blood in them.

Got seen as an emergency (thank you, NHS24) and given an urgent X-ray. I got no report back so I assume that's good news.

Anyway, I've since replaced the 20yo wood burner with a new modern one…and the coughing has almost stopped! The old stove had been smoking a bit for years and I think I'd just got used to it.

Yes, I bought a new 450 as I had a stack of birch trees to sort out.

Classic symptoms as stated by Spud though I haven't done the pressure test.

I think this one will go back into the shed until I have time to sort it out myself.

Brilliant! I've even found a workshop manual! The man's right, no splitting involved.

Thanks guys!

And you're sure the seals are the cause? Not just a common tank ventilation problem?

We've got the Jonsered equivalent CS2150 still going strong, so I'm curious to follow your problem and resolution. Personally, my approach would be to try taking the crankcase apart and to fix it myself as far as possible. It's a very good saw and does a good job for us.

No, I am not sure about the seals but I am as sure as i can be about the bearings.

This video shows how to check them and I read on another site that the movement causes the seals to fail and the saw to pull air which causes it to race when warm.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qamK8Uv5rLE]How To Check Chainsaw Crankshaft Bearings For Wear - YouTube[/ame]

The problem to doing the repair myself is splitting the saw. Special tools are apparently required. Maybe there is someone in the Scottish Highlands who can do this cheaper than McGregors?? If I pay £140 for them to do it, what is the saw worth?

My Husqvarna 350 has been a good saw for general farm use until it started racing intermittently when it got warm.

I've done a Google and the problem seems to be well known….Worn crank shaft bearings causing over heating and air getting in through the seals. MacGregor Industrial Supplies, Inverness, seem to agree with me and have quoted £140 + VAT to cure the problem.

My problem is, is it worth it? I see s/h 350's on Ebay for not much more than £200 - £300 and I've since bought a new 450 for not a lot more.

Anyone in the Highlands repairing these saws as a homer? The main problem appears to be splitting the body to get at the bearings. (A special tool is needed). Would it be worth getting McGregors to split it for me and attempting the repair myself? Or just sell it for parts?