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Aussie treesmith

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Posts posted by Aussie treesmith

  1. I have maxxis bighorns, about 10k on em so far and very little wear

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

    I read on a forum and the previous owner who fitted them said it's a good idea to rotate them every so often, just about to, wearing and gripping well so far

  2. It'll be max, 150kg pulley is good for 75kg on each leg, less if you're shock loading it

     

    BTW 15kn is 1.5 tonne, 10 newtons to a kilogram, 10,000 newtons to a tonne

     

    Bear in mind cycles to failure too, if you load it to the max rated weight, it'll fail sooner

     

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  3. Im using the Stihl 2-1 file that does the depth gauges at the same time, good so far and quick too, all my saws over 50cc wear 3/8 .063 so it's easy, I can free hand file in a pinch (as I found out recently) but I'd rather not as I get better results with a guide. The wood we cut is always really hard so chains need to be good

  4. Back in the UK I had bad sciatica in my right leg for years, (bad, as in being stabbed bad), my social life involved laying face down on the floor groaning , as it got worse I was taking 4 ibuprofen every 2 hours to get through work. Went to the doctors and they put me on diclofenac and Cocodamol. Tried acupuncture, massage, chiro, physio and nothing helped for more than a day tops. Fun.

    When I moved to Aus I saw a bloke who teaches Egoscue and Foundation Training, my problems were caused by 1. Being right side dominant to the point where it was causing major muscle imbalance and all the stresses that causes and 2. By not using my back muscles properly. We are told these days to make our stomachs and core stronger to support our backs and this is horsecrap! Your back muscles need to be stronger. Our backs are designed by nature to support our upper bodies and with our glutes and hamstrings are the most important muscles. Bending your back when lifting is a guaranteed way to hurt yourself badly, the spine is not a structural support and must be kept straight(allowing for the two natural curves, but they take care of themselves) and this is where the the back muscles come in. The muscles do the work and take the weight, not the spine. The glutes and hamstrings are there to lift the upper body. Eg, when you bend over and hinge at the hips with your weight in your heels(not toes) and a straight back then the glutes, hamstrings and back muscles take all the strain, the spine is extended and doesn't take weight, THIS IS HOW YOU ARE DESIGNED! If you bend over by bending your back then the weight of your upper body PLUS whatever you are lifting is put straight into your spine with no proper support from the muscles, this causes slipped/bulging discs, pinched nerves, blown vertebrae and God knows what else.

    Watch how a heavy weight lifter bends and lifts, or even a toddler picks up a toy, weight in heels and back straight and lift!

     

    Your back muscles basically go from the feet to the top of your head as they're all interlinked. Not using them as designed can cause, foot pain, cramp, tight calves and hamstrings, butt pain, stuff hips, sciatica, hypertension, shoulder pain, stuff neck, head aches and more, that's just what I've had. Oh and I'm taller now.

    The creator of Foundation Training (Dr Eric Goodman) blew 4 or 5 vertebrae and was told he needed permanent fusion surgery, he refused now has a very physically active life without surgery just by changing the way he moved, it's on YouTube and it's very effective for athletes to office workers and everyone inbetween.

    A lot of people with blown discs don't know as there aren't always symptoms.

    I refuse to use painkillers of any kind any more.

    Hope this helps someone.

     

    Cheers all, Andy

  5. Hit a nest with a hedge trimmer a few years ago when the European wasps were killing farmers, they chased me over the field and stung the crap out of me. Got them back that night with two lynx cans and a blowtorch taped together, crackle and pop!

     

    Now in Oz and wasps aren't any bother, but we do get snakes, black widows and tarantula looking monsters

  6. Got a 261 new from a very good builder in the US, it pulls 18" .063 3/8 very well and will out cut a 361 cutting full bar in hard eucalyptus, I can safely tune it to 14,600 rpm, the filtration is more than excellent and the AV is superb. It cuts more like a 70cc than a 50 and pound for pound is more impressive than my ported 660. With delivery it was $300 cheaper than buying in Oz, it's a great saw

  7. You can advance the timing on a 201, that is supposed to help a bit. I have seen offset keys which you just change or you can file the key, some are cast to the flywheel. With the cylinder locked you need to turn flywheel anticlockwise by 5-7 mm on the outer edge. Hold it in position till the flywheel nut is tightened fully. This with a muff mod and tune should wake it right up

  8. I read up on this a while back and I was under the impression (by way of posted dyno testing results and discussions on forums etc) really lean mixes (100-1) are hotter and wear faster. More oil equals more power, better ring seal, more compression but only up to a point. Much richer mixes can cause fouled plugs, carbon build up, ring stick and scoring depending on the oil, tuning, use etc. There is also the idea floating about that 50-1 is more driven by emissions standards than by the best lubrication and 40-1 or even 32-1 may be a better mix for various reasons. I've read a few professional saw builders in America saying they run 40-1 or 32-1 full synthetic. I've run 50-1 Stihl mineral for twelve plus years with no trouble. Now on 40-1 but with modded saws.

    The most important part seems to be that the fuel is clean and fresh well mixed with good oil and that the saw is tuned to the fuel used.

  9. MS170 12" MM + adj carb - chipper saw

    MS192t 12" MM + adv timing, works we'll

    MS200t 12" MM x2

    346XP 16" Muffler Modded

    MS261 18" full woods port, MM, timing etc

    MS361 20" MM

    288XP 24" MM

    395XP 24" MM

    MS660 25"/36" full woods port etc

    088 30"/42" MM

     

    That's enough to keep two blokes happy

  10. MS170 is a great small saw too if available, should be cheaper than a 171. I use mine on gum branches so should be fine on chestnut and laugh at treated pine, they're pretty tough too. I always used an old 020t for struts and strainers in the UK but didn't buy it specially

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