Josh187

Hi all not put up allot of posts,

A little bit about myself I am 31 been doing utility arb for a little over 2 years with private work fairly often over the weekends.

Was looking for work abroad in other countries I currently have my cs 30,31,38,39,40 ua 1 and ua 2.3 I have also recently started doing my UA 5.

I maintain a good level of fitness for my age workout twice a week at the boxing gym and try and get in at least 1 or 2 runs if I have the time.

I was wondering how hard it is to obtain a visa for work in Scandinavian countries and what the pay is like I heard it was quite high. Any feedback would be much appreciated thanks all.

Hi all fairly new to the forums sort of registered about 2 or so years ago when I first started tree surgery have not actually visited allot since. Mostly because I have kept my head down doing utility work whilst doing a few small private pieces of work for a small contractor in the local vicinity.

I think I have progressed to a fairly good level of climbing now and I was thinking of taking my trade/skills abroad.

I currently hold my cs 30,31,38,39,40 and my UA 1 and 2.3, This weekend I will also start my UA5 for surveying work. I maintain a pretty good level of fitness I go to the boxing gym for workouts twice a week and try and get in a good run or 2 on top of tree work and overtime at the weekends where I can.

I was thinking that at least from the utility perspective it doesn't pay overly well and I have seen some attractive offers from companies abroad crop up from time to time.

Unfortunately I have little knowledge beyond owning a passport as to what companies are out there abroad and as to what countries would be good locations to work in. I probably have a better tolerance to the cold than the heat. So I was thinking Sweden/Norway direction.

Does anyone have advice on applying for Visa's and what companies to enquire with? Sorry for the long thread, poor grammar and the babbling.

Anyone here cut for Western Power through a firm or otherwise?

Was just wondering who the big cutting firms are that do utility arb work around Wales Abergavenny Cardiff Brecon Beacons area.

Many thanks Josh

May have an offer on someone selling me a husqvarna 185 I cannot seem to find a picture or specs of this chainsaw anywhere. Could send me a link with the specifications of this chainsaw?

There is an old boy near my mums and he mostly has coppiced tree's however he creates a pollard boundary of ash tree's because it stops the roe dear from coming in and chewing on everything it is a surprisingly effective natural boundry.

Also when the time comes this provides a nice load of circular ash logs for processing as you cut off the Pollard limbs.

have you seen the date of the thread

I guess I need to check the fundamentals.

Hi all been battling with tree surgery for a while difficult profession I have now managed to pass my cs 38 and 39 units of what i consider to be a hard profession some may argue not.

It so far has been one of the most rewarding experiences of my life, I live around the St Austel Truro would be the biggest city in the area in Cornwall. What I am really seeking now is either work preferably or even work experiance if anyone knows anyone or is anyone that would be willing to get me out there climbing and learning more.

From passing my course I have come to the realization that I have way more to learn.

Is that the manager being a c0ck or you being a tight git ? He obviously knows what they are worth and that someone will eventually pay it If he holds out long enough he will most likely get over manufacturers RRP for it.

Aye your dead right about that, there is a pretty good company in Yorkshire I think on ebay they seem to pretty much deal almost exclusively in refurbished ms200's and sell them on with 1 year gurantee. normally go on ebay for around £200.

well ive had a fiddle but generally it doesn't seem to run the oil tank dry before the fuel which was my main concern. So all is good.

Arborism is out there with some of the pretty nutty jobs like deep sea trawling and well the armed forces for one

I would not be surprised one iota if people attracted to dangerous yet rewarding and challenging jobs like the armed forces are also attracted to arborism.

Hi all got myself an old 011 av Stihl cleaned it all out adjusted the carb screws so it runs starts idles revs on pick up running really sweet now.....

However it seems to use an awful lot of bar chain oil i mean it is oozing out all over the chain, I have a feeling that this may be a throw back issue because when the STIHL 011av was in production the oil was much much thicker so I imagine the oil was much harder for it to pump through.

Anyone got any thoughts on how I could reduce the amount of lubricant coming through onto the bar as what I have at the moment seems grossly excessive or should i just leave it? Is there a simple adjuster screw anywhere on it that I am missing?

Been looking at new top handled chainsaws and I found this deal going for a bran new Matika chainsaw normally i prefer STIHL as a brand name however this one is at a good price brand new.

Anyone got thoughts on the Makita DCS230T, I would like an objective review from people who have actually reviewed the chainsaw please and no STIHL or husquvana fan boys who will just slate it purely because it is Makita please. Ni disrespect to anyone was intended from this post but they do exist

At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs I will ask did you check all the fundamentals?

Idle timing screw sometimes needs slight tweak beyond what the 3/4 advice line specifies before it runs like it should,

Obviously check/clean airfilter

Check/clean carb

Check petrol filter need a new one?

Check the bearings all smooth running turning no resistance? /chain

Need to get me a first aid kit with a large wound dressing any recommendations? In terms of size compactness would be nice to take up into the tree with me.

Personally I'd fix the ms200 and flog it.

Get yourself a ms 240 or 260 for roughing out, you may want to put a quarter tip carving bar on it.

Then I would get a dime tip carving bar for detailing to go on the 210.

Worth giving a few people a buzz about correct carving bar and sprocket kits for each saw and get some prices.

 

If you've got some saw experience then you should be aware of the kick back zone if not do a bit of research this is greatly reduced when using a carving bar.

Begin with mushrooms as they are nice and easy to form carve the stem 1st then flip it over and do the top.

Do a few then go for something with basic easy form and keep going from there.

Hope that helps

Not me who is looking to carve mate the carving guy was just asking me what chainsaws I use

I also now own a 011av lovely old chainsaw metal casing and all, borderline mint condition few marks on casing laquer.

The differences between the MS200T and 020T are: -

 

1) Fuel and oil caps - the tanks and crankcase have different cap connectors - the 020T threaded and the MS200t the flippy cap mechanism.

2) Carb on the 020 has the H&L screw closer together and no accelerator pump

3) The cylinder on the 020T has a single transfer each side of the cylinder, on the MS200T, it is split in two to avoid pressure stacking of fuel/air vapour.

4)Air box has an 020T logo and recoil cover has a oblong and not round decal.

5) The fuel tank breathers varied from a fibre insert, to a plug in one and then to a dual fuel line type on MS200Ts

 

I think that is about it, all parts are interchangeable including the cylinder as stroke and piston are the same on both machines.

 

The split transfer gives the MS200T a bit more zip on pickup!

Yeah got all that still not found an old version of either though I may have an 011 that i can get for free just for taking out a small tree and some lawn waste away shouldn't take me too long so ideal it's more gear in the bank.

Thanks for your reply

 

I was going to do a basic chainsaw course first. Just so I know how to use one.

 

I thinks its the way to start.

 

What saws do you use Josh?

 

Phil

I own a STIHL 210 a relatively light use semi domestic/pro saw, I also use a 231 STIHL but it does not belong to me.

I am currently working on rebuilding an old 020t top handled surgeons chainsaw I have the thing running but the allu muffler is ruined I need a new one as is 1/2 the casing including the part behind the centrifugal clutch that I have also had to remove.

So it is in many small pieces, what I really need is an old ms200t or a 020t that I can cannibalise for spare parts mainly the casing and the muffler.

Hopefully I will get parts soon.

I spoke to a carver the other day actually and he also stated that aparently they sharpen there runners a little different meaning they run at a 15 degree angle instead of the usual 30 and they use really odd bits of the bar mainly the tip. The upper tip is probably the most dangerous part of the saw to use as well so be carefull mate.

I am relatively inexperienced myself both in spelling and chainsaws aparently

Regardless I would suggest some basic training on simple cuts and techniques before jumping the gun to carving things. A small lantra course or even an NPTC or maybe if you know someone who is quite experianced to give you some pointers.

Chainsaws are really dangerous bits of kit kickback can be really lethal so knowing if your chainbreaks are all working and so fourth is pretty important, I realise I may sound like a tool saying it but if you ever had one throw back at you will know what I am saying it is scary even more so if your some 60ft up in a tree.

Give mike at sawbits co uk a call as he has lots of old saws in his workshop and may be able to supply spares to you, oh and he can post.

Gave Mike a call had a good chin wag with him nice guy sadly they no longer deal in 2nd hand saws good call though confirmed with him that just about every part including the fuel tank will fit the 020t the only difference is if i use the 200ms fuel tank i will just end up with a flip lid cap which suits me fine to be honest.

Thanks for all the positive on feedback guys.

I still believe my best bet is to wait and bid out on ebay or amazon as ive seen some corkers going at times for around £50 £60 and all those lovely parts I can cannibalize would do me lurvely.

If i was working in the industry this would probably not be worth fixing but as I don't have allot of money coming in right now I am doing the best with what I can. I also believe that learning more about the tools of my trade will be a valuable experience.

In order to clarify to some people as scanning through there seems to be a little confusion from what I can tell the muffler box is indeed alloy and is definitely cracked with no other bit to mold on. The outer casing the I speak of seems to be merged in with the fuel tank as part of the design, when I say outer casing I mean the casing behind the centrifugal clutch

Damn looks like I was too slow on the checking of the forum to get me that saw Well played sir to whoever collected, However if anyone else does have another old 020t to cannibalize please let me know as mostly work is slow for me at the moment and I need to keep building towards a hopeful new career.

As you can see from the photo's providing I uploaded them (I am better at working on chainsaws than computers i promise) the muffler is well and truly dead and the outer casing as part of the fuel tank setup is preferably not left as is because the inner heat plate is pretty much dispersed thus putting the tank at risk.

Think I see one I will fork out for thanks for the help by the way what sort of size/shape would you recommend for the maillon rapide?

Yeah I used a petzel on the course that was hire gear wasn't a huge fan this Willins is super comfy slightly less dexterous so it leaves you a little slower but i believe the comfort factor over a day or many days work will mean you can work for longer and harder in the long run. Ideally I would like another Willins similar to this one i think.

At the moment though I am wrestling with taking a apart an old stihl 020t that I hope to repair once I can get the parts. Needs new casing pull cord/handle and a muffler box. Taken it apart but won't bother putting back till i have bits.