Dan Forsh

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

Never had a stiffie from Stihl stuff my self ...Husqvarna may be !

That would be down to poor antivibe 

If you are saying that you constantly get the bulb only half fuel half air, then something isn't right. Are you pumping the bulb for the required number of times and still getting 50/50?

If that's the case, then I'd think it's more likely a badly fitting hose, but then I'd also expect fuel leaks.

As others have said, you could probably pick up a used 880 for less money. I have an 084 that I picked up a couple years ago, condition unknown, for £45. with a 36" ES bar and chain. Granted I've never dug into it as my 'playing with chainsaws' time hasn't been much since I bought it, so it might be a cheap fix/runner it might not be. But that said the 084 wasn't a model that was in production for very long and consequently the parts support either new or 2nd hand isn't there, and I don't recall that there is much interchangeable with the 088/880.

Performance wise a good running saw would do what you need it to, but for the sake of longevity I'd advise you to go with what is still current and has the parts support; MS880.

Just wanted to share this post I've put in stolen equipment forum. I'm sure you guys all know the unfortunate victim and will keep your eyes open if any of his stuff surfaces.

I follow Simon on Facebook just to admire the amazing work he does, but I'm sure some of the contributors in here probably know him personally.

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/stolen-equipment/107274-massive-theft-saws-equipment-wales.html

I'm not clever enough to add links to the original post, but hopefully pasting the info below from Simon O'Rourke's post on Facebook helps make more people aware and on the look out for his stuff.

This is a guy doing some fantastic original work who has had his equipment wiped out. Please post and share via as many outlets as you can think of.

"Stolen chainsaws and tools from my workshop in Rossett north Wales last night... please share this.

All the saws have my S logo etched into the bodies.

STIHL Ms150 x2

STIHL Ms170

Echo 360

Echo 281

Makita UK Ea7901 x2

Makita Dcs 5121 x2

Makita Duc353

Husqvarna 550 xpg

Husqvarna 395

Harry cane

3’ stihl bar

24”toonie

22” tsumura

16” tsumura

14” tsumura

12” tsumura 043

12” tsumura 050

9” tsumura

14” cannon

12” cannon

36” tsumura

4 Makita batteries

Makita router RT0700cx2

Makita router rp2301"

Personally I never do go with specified torque on any saw I've rebuilt. I just go with tightening diagonally opposite bolts and take them up in stages and then finally good and tight (hand tight) with my trusty tee handle T27 driver.

I'm sure others will decry my method as madness and tell you to get a decent torque wrench, each to their own.

What I would say is get a copy of the shop manual to work with. I've never taken an MS200T all the way down for a rebuilt, but I've heard others say that they can seem like a bit of a pig to those who aren't familiar.

Also check the coil stop wire as where it goes through the casing to the off switch above the flywheel they wear through and cause intermittent probs

That usually just means they don't stop on the stop switch though doesn't it?

OP, one thing I noticed, and I can't see anyone else has mentioned, you said "wouldn't start after 12 months no use", are you sure this isn't due to stale fuel?

Are you trying to start it with the fuel that's been in it for 12 months, or fresh fuel? And same applies to the fuel you are putting directly into the cylinder, is this fresh fuel or what's been sat in a fuel can next to the saw for 12 months?

One thing I do know is that 2 stoke equipment doesn't like being sat unused, like cars they develop all sorts of issues with lack of use.

I favour the Americans' use of a splash of Seafoam in the fuel, either as a preventative measure or as part of the revival of a troubled, been stored, motor.

Hi Dan I have used ptfe tape on a spark plug before and it worked long enough till I could tap and helicoil a new plug thread ( two weeks wait on the post till the helicoil kit turned up ) and the tape seemed fine if a little charred, but for a permanent repair I'd use high temp liquid gasket or gun gum exhaust compound

Thanks Richard.

I have red Dirko gasket compound. That's supposed to be high temp, would I be better off using that rather than the PTFE tape? I didn't think of using that and I'm not sure it's suitable for threads.

I just don't want to send the saw back with something that isn't a permanent repair.

Gents, do you think it's okay to use this solution?

I've just replaced the piston and cylinder on an 026 that decided to eat one of its piston rings. The guy I've done it for didn't want to spend too much so went with a farmer tec kit, which in fairness didn't look to be too bad quality. On pressure testing it was leaking and I finally found that it was due to the poor thread on the decomp valve port. I put PTFE tape on the blank off bolt and this immediately cured the leak.

I'm going to leave it blanked off (one less thing to leak) just wanted to check if the PTFE tape is okay or if you'd recommend some other long term solution?

Cheers, Dan

Good find I got one approx two weeks ago mine the fuel cap rubber was perished and leaking fuel I put a new husqvarna flip cap in there pretty sure it was for a 550 I also tried a cap from a 340 and that also fitted but it was a customers so couldn't use it

Good to know for future reference

Oh 'eck. I've started having a few issues with hot starts.... despite pumping the primer bulb and setting it to fast idle (choke on/choke off)

Are you supposed to use the primer for a hot start? I thought they were just meant for ease of starting from cold?

Like the guy before said, assume you mean you've bought a new tank/engine housing as that model only has the little clam shell type of crank case. If you've bought a tank that suits the model with a primer bulb and the one you're fixing doesn't have one, I don't think it's going to be too much of a problem, just seal off the return on the fuel tank. Otherwise I think it should all go back together. 021, 023, 025 are all pretty much interchangeable bits.

MS200 for rebuild and porting, the owner listed a raft of parts he wanted fitted but am not fitting and am saving him money as none of them needed replacing and don't throw money where it is not needed

Nice to see Steve, plenty would take his money, regardless, if he's asked for it.

It would have been "cutting edge" technology in its day;-)

Get your coat...

It probably will be ,, its just I got a chain cover going spare so it will hopefully be made use of :lol:

That's the best excuse I've heard for buying another saw

I still run a Husky xp281, worst thing about it is starting it, it is a brute, needs a decompressor on it. Either that or I am being a girl.

Check that your starter rope spool hasn't split, the one I had nearly had me handing in my man membership card until I found out that this was the problem and the rope was binding on itself.

Thanks, I can stick a new set of bearings and seals and gaskets in, a new intake manifold and a new vacuum hose and it should be good. Set the carb back to stock and hopefully it will be good again

 

 

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Yes, you can do all that, and you will be replacing the most likely culprits, however, you would still be working on blind faith.

How do you know it isn't something else or can you be sure that you've installed the oil seals correctly?

If you can't do it yourself it would certainly be worthwhile finding someone who would be willing to check it for you. Ideally get it pressure/vac tested and diagnose any leaks before you tear in to it.

how difficult would it be to make a basic cylinder pressure tester? If I bought one of those pressure gauges where the needle stays at the maximum peak that went to 300 psi and took it to my local mechanical/hydraulic outfit, would it be as simple as asking them to make up a piece of pressure hose with a fitting to match the gauge on one end and matching fitting for the plug hole on the other, crank the saw and see where needle stops on the gauge? Probably too simple but thought i'd ask.

I think you're getting two different things confused here (or at least that's not what this thread was discussing). What you're describing is a compression tester, and I think these can be bought relatively cheaply to start with; probably not much in it by the time you've paid out for the parts to make one. I have one that I got second hand off Ebay and to be honest I don't really use it much. If a saw is that down on compression it's usually demonstrated sufficiently in other ways than needing to read the numbers.

If it is vac & pressure you are looking to test to check for air leaks, then I would start out with a compound pressure gauge that can read both + and - and then look at ways of generating pressure and vacuum. Bulb pump for a blood pressure cuff is okay for the pressure and others have said a large volume syringe for vac.

A few lengths of suitable tubing and some blank off plates and you should be able to knock up a rudimentary kit for a few quid.

Well, it's just what came up on google, but if it were a case of 7 vs 8 I'd say it's going to give you a bit more pull, sounds like dropping down a gear to me

Well I'm glad to see what the experience guys have said matches what I was thinking, but didn't feel confident posting. I wondered why the carb was changed and assumed that a backfire would be a sheared key.

Tell us what it was when you've sorted it.

I'm not speaking from experience here, so am happy to stand corrected, but your bar has no pitch, so you only need to match the gauge. If your existing 3/8 chains do, then I assume you are good to go.

I see 1124 640 2004 (8T) as a suitable spur sprocket for your saw.

Won't matter if you mix them

I'm starting to think my local dealer just wanted to sell me a new saw. Just about everyone else is saying the black top parts will fit my orange top saw

You meant to say white top right?

Just been to my local machinery shop who advised the black top & white top are not interchangeable

 

So now I'm undecided about what to do as I don't fancy ending up with 2 saws that don't work

I can't say for certain, but I'm pretty sure they are. I'd suggest getting hold of copies of the IPL for standard 50 and 50 rancher and start comparing part numbers.

I have got a couple of these myself and would offer to help you out with bits, but I'm intending to make one good one from the two myself, so I don't know what bits will be spare.

Go to AS and ask in the beg for manuals thread, you'll soon get sorted on the IPLs, and a workshop manual if you need one.

It depends on what saw it is as some are difficult but there is a good chance the seals will be OK even if the saw is split. The flywheel side is generally softer on the seal than the clutch side so if you can leave the crank in the clutch side, it would be better as the seal is unlikely to get damaged on the crank tapered end.

 

Yeah - TS400!!

Bugger! 50/50 and I went with pulling the clutch side off. Although I do have the installation sleeve, so I can avoid catching it on the clutch threads on the crank. I'll have to wait on another case gasket before I can put it back together. I may as well order another kit including oil seals just in case.