Bosun

Thank you, that does sound like a more viable solution.

Hello, Thank you, we had also discussed the use of a mobile mill (and operator), which may at the end of the day be our best bet, as milling is likely to be only "as and when" we get fallen trees. It's only that we have a mill, so why not see if we can use it. It would also be a good reason to commission a new forestry trailer that's sat unused for several years. Timber would be mainly oak, ash and a little beech up to around 500mm dia. We are in Essex.

Good afternoon, I'm a volunteer at our local Country Park and we were discussing milling fallen logs for sale. Then someone said "we have a portable Chainsaw Mill somewhere". After some searching, I came across a brand new Westford Rail Mill, comprising the milling carriage and four (two short and two long) rails. However, at this point, I don't know whether it's complete, and any small sundry parts could be anywhere. I'm also not sure at this point about a suitable Chainsaw, although I've located a 30" bar. I understand we'd ideally need a ripping chain and something around 90cc. My question is: Is it worth pursuing, or would a "slab mill" be a better option? I do have reservations about the accuracy (uniform slab thickness), as the Chainsaw is only clamped to the carriage at the power unit, and hangs off to one side.

It's for a Stihl 16" MS251. I want to rip a 10" dia Ash trunk down it's length. I had thought of regrinding a cross cut chain, but buying one is by far the more reliable option.

Good afternoon, Does anyone know if/where I can get 0.325"/1.6mm ripping chain? Sorry about the mixed units. My local forestry supplier doesn't think 0.325" ripping chain is available. Thanks, Bosun

Chuffed to bits with my CS-390ESX. Good power to weight ratio, easy to start, easy access air filter and chain tension screw. Plus, for the price, it was the only machine I came across with an adjustable, and clutch driven oil pump (it only pumps oil when the chain is running). Big advantage over my Husky, which pumped more oil than a Texan oilfield. The internal clutch makes cleaning easier, but like many, it still has a myriad of nooks and crannies that collect chippings and sawdust. Currently, my only criticism is that there is only one sighting mark. I know I can draw them on, but nothing I've tried seems to last.

Hello All, I have a Husky 240, which does the job OK, but I've had some starting issues with it (kindly sorted by your good selves a while ago), but more annoyingly it uses a lot of oil. A fair pool of oil is left if I set it down, even after shutting it off. Not to mention the oil that gets sprayed everywhere, and the oil that ends up running down onto my chainsaw trousers. I guess some of the oil usage will be due to the fixed output pump, and because I'm running a 14" bar on a machine that could have an 18" bar. Also, I'm not happy that the oil runs out before the fuel. Anyway, back to the title of the post. I want to replace the 240 and upgrade to something better and more advanced. My local dealer has recommended the Echo CS-450. With a clutch related oil pump and adjustable oil flow, it's sounds just the ticket. According to the Echo brochure it has some electronics (digitally controlled CDi). I've heard lots of good things about Echo machines. Any thoughts or comments?

You say that 125psi is low. I understand that a higher reading would be obtained from a "wet" test. Are the figures quoted above (150-170psi) likely to be from a wet test?

Just thought I'd let you know how I got on. Did a dry compression test and got 125psi after 5 pulls. Didn't try a wet test as I thought oil in the cylinder might exacerbate the starting problem later on. Tried ADW's method of starting and it fired-up OK. So why it won't start using Husqvarna's method, or what might actually be amiss, is beyond me. Thanks for all the help.

Apologies for getting the terminology wrong, but this is copied from the 240 operators manual "4. Push in the choke control to the ”1/2 choke” setting as soon as the engine fires which can be heard through a "puff" sound. (22)" Pulling the choke all the way out does appear to set part throttle, which then returns to low idle when you operate the trigger. I'm going to check the compression, and try the suggestions above today. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks All.

The 240 has a 1/2 choke position. Off-choke is set after starting when the trigger is activated.

Thanks ADW, After cranking the engine twice, should I push the choke in even if it hasn't fired? Also, when you say push the choke in, is that all the way in, or just to the intermediate position? Presumably, losing part of the bearing cage will have caused some damage and affect compression? What compression pressure should I be seeing?

The plug is wet after a dozen or so pulls. Can't detect the initial "pop" as it fires. What is the CDI unit? Why might it not spark under compression, when it sparks with the plug out? Sorry for the questions, but I'm trying to understand what's going on. I'd like to fix it myself if I can, and hopefully improve my knowledge for the future. After all, give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach him to fish and feed him for life. Or words to that effect.

I'm still having trouble starting my Husky 240. It won't even fire. New plug (0.5mm), sparking OK, new fuel (although I've been using Aspen), sound electrical connections, new fuel filter, fuel primer OK, choke OK. I've decided to look at the carb, unless there's anything else I should try first. Are there any strip down guides out there? I don't want to take apart more than I have to. Many thanks.

Tried cranking it over in subdued light, and there was a spark. Put everything back together, and after a few coughs and splutters it started and has been OK (touch wood) ever since. One of those little mysteries I guess. However, it always annoys me if I don't know the cause of a problem. Anyway, thanks for your input guys.