Ray1

Bid spares or repairs price for everything, then when you have it running for the price of a new fuel line, leave appropriate feedback. It really pisses them off.

Start a claim, give as much evidence as possible, they also can look at past messages through ebay even if you have deleted them. They will freeze the money in his paypal account, if not enough in there they will send it into the red. This will cause him huge problems if he has anything to pay out of it. If they find in your favour they will take the money from his paypal account and the linked bank account, if still not enough credit they leave his paypal account in minus and send nasty letters.

If you have done an out of ebay deal and paid with paypal you are covered, UNLESS you sent the money as a gift.

Go steady with the 170, its very easy to bend the con rod if you use too much force removing the clutch when using a piston stop.

Its the cack handed way but you may be able to undo them using a flat screwdriver that fits into opposite parts of the hole as they are only into plastic they shouldnt be too tight, and a 1/4 inch drive 8mm socket to remove the air baffle nuts.

Does it not look a little suspect that all the reviews are done within 24 hours of each other? or have i missed the point of the exercise and its for something other than customer service reviews, something like climbing up google results.

False economy, buy cheap, buy twice or three times, and running a 16 inch bar on a MS180, i wouldn't advise it.

If price of them orange gloves he wears was included, that would be his so called profit gone right there.

I remember once seeing a used pair of Halfords jump leads selling at a farm auction for £25 plus vat, plus 18% premium. They were only £7.99 brand new off the shelf. As the old saying goes, "Remember your cheque book and leave your brains at home."

Was that new prices before VAT and Buyers Premium was added?

A Driving License would help. Sorry couldnt resist.

Was that the one with a un-named top end rebuild on it?

Hope you didn't rebuild the rest of it with copy parts.

The four bolts that allow the engine to be removed also hold it together, usually the gasket sealant is enough to stop it falling apart until it's out.

There are 4 bolts that hold the engine into the white housing and then there are 4 bolts that hold the engine pan to the cylinder. The 1123 series only uses 4 bolts but the 1130 series uses 8 bolts.

130 is low but these saws are renowned for having low compression, due to the way the engine is designed you have to remove the clutch and take out the full engine assembly and then split the pan to cylinder by undoing another 4 bolts once its out.

Dont think ive ever had flu, and after reading this thread i dont want to get it. Turned down my flu jab every year but after reading this i may take them up on the offer this year.

only pictures i take are the ones used to sell the saws, then deleted. Im not the sentimental type.

Done 100's mostly Stihl, they all must still be going as ive not received any back. All secondhand parts not worth doing if you use new.

Undo the 2 nuts and remove the black plastic air baffle, then undo the 3 screws 2 at the top and one at the bottom and pull the black filter housing off, its a tight fit and may feel a bit of resistance but it will just pull off and you should be able to get at the pipe and primer.

Trying to get it balanced and in line after you have split it (if you manage to) will be a right ball ache.

Dont run it out of fuel then! Easy.

Seriously though, its not that 170 kat that i remember you posting about a while ago is it?

If its anything like the stihl easy start system you need to change the complete recoil housing and inner parts and the complete flywheel. Huskys im not sure about.

Does make me laugh though, when they buy a car thats got half inch of dust all over it and it starts up like the batteries been on charge for a week previous.