tommytopsoil

Cheers. Seeing as I greesed it will it be ok to use till I pick one up ?

Keep an eye on it in case it pushes all the grease back out of the hole straight away - the little spring and ball in the top of the nipple acts as a one way valve to keep the grease in there.

Tom

Daleside Welding, Kirkby Lonsdale

John Metcalfe, Crook

Probably your best bets. Whereabouts South Lakes are you?

The blue complex grease is for extreme pressure applications eg pivot pins of a loader or digger subject to very high shock loading

 

Hence it carry's a higher cost

If only being used for general and bearing use - use the red and save some money!

Red & Blue lithium grease are the same price here.

That means they must be over charging for the red grease !!!

Lithium complex grease is exactly that chaps. It can be dyed any colour of the rainbow. There is no difference.

What you must watch for is the spec of the grease, not the colour.

We stock 12-14 different colours/grades of grease at any point, varying from just over £1/tube to over £20/tube.

The point being however, grease and oil are cheaper than steel and if you use a known brand you will certainly get what you pay for.

Fuchs Reiner. There is no other way.

Rottweilers. Big ones.

J S Cole, Haverthwaite Ulverston; 01229 582149

Gilbert Brown & Son, Hawkshead; 015394 36480

Stu Walker's number is 07900 893743

+1, all good outfits with plenty of experience. You will get sorted between them.

It happened before 2005 and they were identical to the atlas copco models and they stopped selling the atlas copco version at the same time, I know because I had the ac version.

To the best of my knowledge the A-C version was a re-badged Milwaukee, not the other way round. Atlas-Copco bought the Milwaukee Electric Tool Company in 1995 from it's second owner - third if you include the founder. Sold about ten years later to Techtronic who also own AEG and Ryobi.

Milwaukee does seem to have hung onto its heritage and quality though.

I have recently bought a Milwaukee 18v cordless impact wrench and have to agree it is a brilliant tool. The battery life is amazing, it is as far as I know the most powerful battery cordless impact wrench in the world

You mean the impact driver screwy thing or a 1/2" drive impact gun/nut-runner etc? If the latter then they won't look at our Snap-On guns but I must admit they are very good considering the weight, or lack of it.

Milwaukee are rebranded atlas copco, happened in about 2002-2003 or rather the new name for them one of the two.

Milwaukee were sold by Atlas Copco in 2005 I believe. Now owned by Techtronic.

There's only one van. Get a Sprinter.

As plant fitters/fabricators on the road and in the workshop we get through a reasonable amount of cordless power tools and have tried most makes, Hitachi, Bosch, DeWalt, Makita, Metabo, Snap-On etc etc. We currently are on Milwaukee 18v and I must say the drill is the best cordless I have ever used. The power, chuck and build quality are just unreal. The 1/2" impact gun is a fair tool too and the batteries are getting better with use but I think the Snap-On gun still has it licked.

Milwaukee drill is just awesome though. We also have cordless grinders from Milwaukee. Good kit.

Does it feel fuel related? Or does it just stop dead when it cuts out?

Thoughts are with you both, may she make a full and swift recovery. Stay strong.

Turret and bolster height probably as critical as anything, along with knuckle projection.

I'd be interested in the tooling if they need re-homing...

If you swap your Ifor for new every 10-12 months the resale is such that you can practically have a years maintenance free trailering - or maintenance free trailering forever if you keep swapping.

However, if you want a decent trailer, Brenderup are worth a look - they tow like an absolute dream. GE/BJ also of good quality.

You'll not do 'light' metal with a 70amp stick welder

I would say that was very much dependent on the man holding the stick.

Hi Pete, would be keen to see some pics, also - whereabouts are you?

Hi all, I have a customer looking for 4 used wheel chains to fit 600/50-22.5 tyres, if anyone thinks they might be able to help him out please get in touch or DM, many thanks

Nissan genuine parts are night and day from spurious ones, don't even hesitate, just get the proper ones. They'll do you another ten years then...

As a general rule, fully retract the bucket cylinder and have the top of the grapple 'flat across' like in your second picture. Fit the brace arm into the lowest position hole on the bracket and tack the bracket to the dipper. Drop the grapple off, fold her round and weld up. As the bucket cylinder is fully retracted during the set-up process, you cannot then over-crowd and damage the brace arm.

Your hitch is particularly deep however and has quite a step-back in the pin centres - I doubt this has been accounted for in the design of that particular grapple. As mentioned, the safest way would be to direct-mount and move the bracket into the appropriate position, however this is likely not the most convenient for you so I would suggest trying the above method first. Your main problem does seem to be the lateral distance between front hitch pin and dipper end pin though.

Nice to see Swampy made it into the photo for the big hand-over!

Don't let the enviro gang/rspb catch you 'releasing all that carbon into the atmosphere'... You'll give them heart failure :001_rolleyes:

We've put Keruing low-loader boards through two and three at a time and she barely blinked. No experience with oak. Hardly a machine of great finesse, but if you want the job done then it certainly seems to do it.

I think its a case of having to use either the crowd ram or offset boom function- put a t junction into the piping for either function and then turn the tap when you want to use the grab and the controls for either bucket curl or offsetting boom will spin/close the grab. You won't need bucket curl anyway and not likely to need offset using a rotating grab anyway...

This will be fine if you hang the grab off a swing-link on the end of the boom and fully retract the bucket cylinder. Otherwise a change-over valve with a switch on a joystick to activate.

It looks like you have no auxiliary circuit so I take it you are already thinking of using the bucket circuit for one of the services? If so then just run a line down the boom from the offset for the other as Matthew says.