ihatesaws

Other experts say that you can ruin your cylinder with acid and if you manage to go through your plating with sandpaper then it was rubbish anyway. I tried some more caustic soda on the line to the right of the exhaust port but it doesn't seem to do anything. The black area under the exhaust can't be felt. Out of curiosity I put the chinese cylinder on the meteor piston to see what compression I'd get and it's 140psi as well. I'd say the gauge is right because the super is 170psi on the gauge and I can feel alot more resistance from its starter cord. I figured that if the damaged oem cylinder is going to wear the piston and the rings then I might as well use the chinese cylinder as there is no damage in that. It's practically unused. Anyway the saw is going again. It's idling and it's cutting although with maybe a little less power that with the oem. Not sure yet. Will have to run it for a while and see how it is when it's hot.

I've attached another one. I've gone through the plating in the spot on the left but I'll keep sanding on the right. The piston seemed tight enough but what do I know? The piston felt tight.

I installed the meteor piston into the oem cylinder. I got a compression reading of 140psi. I ran the saw for around ten minutes, cutting small bits and pieces and leaving it idle. It was definitely more powerful than before and the idle with the wte1 carb seemed acceptable. Before testing any further I took off the exhaust to look at the piston and there seems to be vertical lines worn through the machining marks. I took off the cylinder and it seems to have more damage than when I put it back on. There is a vertical line to the right of the exhaust port and a small round chip to the left that i can feel with my finger nail. I've sanded the area again and this is how it looks now. The compression was still 140psi after running it btw before taking it apart. There is some stuff on the roof of the cylinder and in the ports that I can't reach to clean out. Any tips?

I'm not worried about the oil tank but the same paint loss is around and underneath the crank so bits of paint will be coming up inside the cylinder. I can fill it with white spirits alright but I don't think I should be throwing nuts down there. What are they supposed to do, bang against the paint and knock off loose stuff?

On the carb tuning my idle was high as I started with a high idle to be sure it would start. I found the stihl tuning guide which says to adjust idle screw to 3300 and then adjust L to find the maximum revs. If you go over 3700 adjust idle back to 3300 and continue search. Then at the end reduce idle to 3300 and richen L to the recommendation, in this case 2500. I read in forums that 024 and 026 have trouble with fuel puddling and it's better not to set the idle too rich and they all fluctuate quite a bit so it's better to keep a higher idle to compensate for that. So I just set it to around 3000 at the end and that worked pretty well, at least initially. I put a new metering diaphragm and gasket from a k10-wat kit into the WTE1. This has a 3mm nipple and the carb worked better than before. I removed the limiter cap on the H screw to get the revs down low enough. I ran maybe a tank or a tank and a half through the super with the wte1 over the past few weeks. My overall impression was that when cold the idle was 2500-3000 and pretty stable. WOT was around 11000rpm. When the saw got hot WOT was going over 13000rpm and when the saw went back to idle it tended to idle more at around 3500 but pretty stable still. A clear sign of an air leak I thought so I pressure tested the saw again while hot but couldn't detect anything. Took off clutch and oil pump and sprayed fuel on clutch seal but no change in rpm. I had the flywheel off earlier in the year and that seal looked good as well. I tried releasing gas from a map torch around the saw but couldn't change rpm except at air filter. I let saw cool down but it wouldn't behave itself while cold then either. Tried it another day then and it was alright for a while again. Today after heating up a bit the wot rpm was over 13000 but when it came back to idle the idle began to sink till it died so that doesn't indicate an air leak. Anyway I'm going to park the super for a while. I've ordered the meteor piston for the 024. I cleaned up the original cylinder. I don't think there was any aluminium transfer as there were no white patches and when i put in sodium hydroxide there was no fizzing. I then sanded it a bit with my finger and there is a bit of blackness here and there but I can't feel anything. I just took off the cylinder and I see that the paint is half gone inside the crankcase. That will continue to flake off. The oil tank was a real mess with paint when I split it the first time. Should I split it again and remove all the paint? Also when I put in a new crankcase gasket I didn't use any sealant as I had enough bits to juggle putting the case back together again but should I use some?

Thanks. I'll have to digest all of that and think about it. On the nipple I'm just measuring the length of the nipple with calliper jaws touching both ends. The WT bowl is deeper with a corresponding longer protrusion on the WT gauge compared to the WTE bowl and gauge so I thought that would explain why the WT nipple is 3mm and the WTE one that I got is only 2mm. It has a shorter distance to go down into the bowl to reach the lever. The 2mm diaphragm must be the right one as it was well used and stuck to the gasket which was stuck to the carb body so it must have worked.

I put the modified tank housing on the 024S and didn't have much luck with the wte1. When you said the nipple should be the long one do you mean the 3mm WT one? I put a carb kit on the wt194 and this is the closest I can get to a working saw. The L screw seems very sensitive. I have to nudge it a tiny bit richer from time to time to keep the rpm down. On tuning the L screw when I turn it in from 1 1/4 turns out to find the max revs it starts to take off at around 1 turn out without any sign of a drop in rpm, 4000,5000 etc and then I lose my nerve and back the screw out again. Should I be braver? I do notice that when I take the fuel hose off the carb on the ms290 fuel spurts out of the hose everywhere. The tanks on the 024's don't seem to build any pressure. Is that of any relevance?

I wrote a summary in the last page so you don't have to read eight pages. The nipple is 2mm in length while a WT diaphragm nipple is 3mm. Is the carb body B in the picture? Does this mean the lever should line up with B? The correct tool would seem to put the lever 0.7mm below B.

The gauge is shown here: https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/proper-metering-height-walbro-wte-carb.346658/ If I put a straight edge on the flat part of the carb where the metering gasket contacts and stick in a 0.7mm feeler gauge such that one side touches the straight edge and the other the metering lever will that be okay? At the moment the lever looks a bit low.

The adventure continues. I thought this video had some good tips on carburetor fault finding: https://youtu.be/_4K6dBQTeek In particular the throttle butterfly was not in the correct position on the wt-194. Earlier in the thread I tested if air was entering through the throttle shaft and if I could block it. I set it correctly but it didn't make the saw work any better. I thought that a defective check valve allowing air into metering chamber would produce an irregular idle but my check valve holds a vacuum successfully. I finally got the second hand WTE-1. The compensator lid was easily swapped with a WT lid. The WTE however has a big chunk of metal around the H screw which prevents the carb from sliding into the tank housing. I spent quite some time with a dremel grinding away plastic so that it would fit. I then had to enlarge the holes in the plastic for both L and H screws so that I could adjust them. I just tested it on the 024 sofar. If I want to do it on the 024S then I'll have to similarly modify its tank housing. The saw started on half-throttle and I could rev it up but releasing the throttle it died immediately regardless of the position of the L screw. It was only when I turned the LA almost completely in that it would idle. I got a max rpm of around 3200 at 1 turn out on the L. I set the L then at 1 1/4 turns out. My overall impression is that the idle is more stable. However I couldn't rev up the saw but very rarely. It wanted to stall when I pressed the throttle most of the time. Then suddenly without changing the H screw it would rev up but not for very long. I'm presuming some kind of fuel restriction issue. I took the carb apart. Gaskets very sticky to remove and I should really put a carb kit into it but they are dear compared to WT kits and not available locally. The pump diaphragm looks okay, the mesh filter looks clean but I'm having trouble removing it to make sure. The metering diaphragm is a bit crackly. I'm soaking it in brake fluid to regenerate it. I don't have the walbro gauge for setting the height of the metering lever for a wte carb. Is there some improvisation? I tried to remove the lever but the screw head was strange or damaged. It's worse now and I think I'll have to cut a slot in it to remove it. Some guy online complained about removing the screw on this carb as well. He said loctite was used.

I have that damage as well. I've put some tape around it. The black wire to the on switch is bare in a patch as well. I got the two plugs working again heating them with a torch and rubbing them with a wire brush. They were fouled with oil? When I assembled the saw I put grease on all the bearings and I coated the inside of the cylinder with oil before putting the piston back in. Could some of that stuff be coming up on to the plugs? They were wet and blackish when I took them out of the 024. After a spell in the ms290 they turn coffee brown.

I bought a used wte-1 from america but it will surely take a while to arrive. I went to start the 024 today but it wouldn't start properly. This is the one with the new spark plug and when I tested it I couldn't get a spark. I put the 024s plug in and the saw started. What could be causing the saw to damage the spark plugs? The coil gap is a bit big at 0.3mm but I can't get it any smaller.

Thanks. Is it that you don't rate tillotson carbs very highly or you just haven't had any experience with the HU-136 in this saw?

Would the compensator lid fit inside the 024 tank housing though? Would a flat plate from a WT carb fit the WTE-1?

I might as well just buy a new ms170 for that money. It would be alright for light jobs.🤔 I have the original cylinder and it doesn't look too bad. I'd have to clean it up and get a meteor piston but I want stability first and then I'll worry about performance.