Bryapatch

Ha, i think my boss would have a thing or two to say about that.

Fixed it today, it was the needle bearing! When i took everything off it was completely shagged and just fell away. New one on now and after a brief test all the symptoms have stopped. Will wait and see how it performs on a full day's work. Couldn't see anything obviously wrong with the clutch springs or the drum. My saw has a twin bought at exactly the same time from the same place, and its needle bearing is fine, will try taking mine back if it happens again. Thanks a lot for the advice guys, invaluable forum. :-)

Thanks a lot for the replys. I will have a looksee tomorrow. Reassuring that neither needle bearing or clutch springs will cost the earth. I'll be sure to carry grease in future, even if it isnt the needle bearing thats broken. Cheers

Hi there, The 261 i use at work is fairly new, bought in the autumn. Its been great untill this week when it was borrowed and used for 40 minutes or so when it was really too blunt to be used, it had started to burn the wood. I have now sharpened it but it is behaving strangely: 1. It will not start with the chain brake on. 2. When I take the chainbrake off, the saw will start, but the chain spins round will ticking over, even though the chain is properly tensioned. 3. When i put the chain brake back on when it is running, the saw stalls. 4. The chain also goes really slack so its hanging off the guidebar when the chain brake is off, and tight again when the chain brake is on. Any insight into whats gone wrong would be great, dont really trust our local power tools shop as they have completely failed to repair chainsaws sent to them in the past, so id like to have an idea about whats wrong. I havent had a chance to take the saw apart and examine in it, could a broken clutch spring explain some of the symptoms? Cheers