medroberts

Adw, I will come back to you with my findings, Thanks again for your time and knowledge in advance on this matter.................Rgds Med

Evening ADW, Just tried to start it from cold on choke and nothing, not trying even to fire! So your advise is to pressure test the crank seals that I have replaced ? Do I need 7 psi in the cylinder whilst spraying soapy water around the seals ? I don't understand how the saw ran perfectly for so long after rebuilding it ? As I said used the saw for 1hr perfectly and then just cut out when out down on idle and will not restart !!!! Any other tests I can carry out ? Thanks in advance ...............Med ,

Guys. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you all. Having replaced the two crank shaft seals and rebuilt the saw, I wad able last night to try it in some wood under-load. Having replaced the deflection limiter bush located under the chain drive area the vibration has now gone, so this must have been the cause for the vibration. After the rebuild the saw started instantly and idled correctly. The same when I started it last night and I sawed firewood for 1hr without issue. Then I placed the saw on the ground idling correctly and the saw cut out. I tried to restart but no joy. I pulled the plug and I have a spark out of the cylinder. I haven’t poured any petrol down the plug hole to see if it will fire on that yet as it was getting late. Typical engineer, Iam thinking could it be something that I have done when installing the crank seals ? How do I further diagnose this NO start issue ? Thanks for your time and knowledge …,Rgds, Med

Haironyourchest, In reply to your questions.....The flywheel is all intact with no missing fins to cause an imbalance. There was no play in the big or little end of the con rod. I have been able to rebuild the saw tonight, and she fired up a treat with no vibrations as expected. It will be weekend before I can try her in some wood. The only difference , is that I have also replaced the deflection limiter bushing which was worn. My theory with that was if excessive travel was causing the AV springs (all intact) to allow the two dampened assemblies to contact each other when in the cut i.e pulling up on the rear handle and pressing down on the front handlebar. I will update this weekend ......Rgds, Med

Hi Waterbuoy, Yes I have done the rakers two filings ago and no vibration after this. Thanks for the question.

Hi Adw, I have cleaned the saw before stripping it down. I am an agricultural engineer by trade so I know how important cleanliness is . Thankyou for your further thoughts . I will check this out and update. Regards, Med

Hi Haironyourchest, That was my very first thought. And although the chain is 50 % down there is no teeth missing. Regards, Med

Guys, Finally got the saw to bits and as you can see from the attachments the crankshaft bearing races are intact on both sides. The crankshaft rotates smoothly. I have also removed the exhaust and inspected both piston/ring and cylinder. I can see no issues in there either. The drive clutch and needle support bearing are in good order also. The sugihara bar sprocket tip is free to rotate. Not sure why I am getting this vibration in the cut ? The deflector limiter bush is worn and I will replace when I order parts to rebuild. But I cannot reason why this would cause the saw to have a vibration whilst cutting.... Your thoughts please... Thanks in advance for the assistance

Hi ADW, Thanks for your reply. I have fitted a new drive sprocket not that long ago. I haven't run the saw after noticing this vibration, for fear of causing more damage. But seemed to start and idle correctly. I only noticed the vibration whilst under load i.e in the cut. I have looked at the clutch and all return springs are intact ( never had to replace any since new !) Would I be able to feel play in the crank bearings if the races had failed ? If I were to take off the clutch and check for axial play ? I will take a look in the spark arrestor gauze as you suggest, Rgds, Med

Guys, Whilst using my husky 560 yesterday on firewood, I noticed a strange vibration whilst cutting .I have owned the saw from new and have only ever used husky synthetic 2 stroke oil in it. Saw will start and run fine. I have removed the bar and cannot see any obvious reason for this issue. I can see that these suffer from failure of the crankshaft bearings nylon races..... Could this possibly be the cause of the vibration ? I can see a pressure test of the crankcase could reveal the crank seals leaking , and thus bearing failure ? Unfortunately I don't have a hand pressure/vacuum pump. A question to Spud (Steve), could you carry out this test for me of the crank bearings ? If I send you over the saw ? Ps The 395xp you ported for me is still going strong ..... Regards, Med Roberts

Thanks Stubby, Will have to contact him and hope he sees my side of the story. The only other observation is that the oiling hole in the sugi bar looks smaller than in the husky bar( see previous pics) even though its location looks to be good. Will let you know how I get on Thanks , Med

Guys , Just to update. Sthil () not getting any were with my sugihara bar oiling issue. This is despite fitting a new rim sprocket and oil feed/delivery pipe. Tried it again today and bar went hot and chain very slack When I refit the old Husqvarna 18" bar , I do not have the same issue. My 395xp fitted with the sugi 28" bar , I have had no issues , despite making some heavy cuts. In fact its like new. I am afraid if approach Rob @ chainsawbars, he is going to blame lack of oil ! even though I had only purchased it last week with new chain. Don't know what I can do next, as I cannot see why the bar should not be getting enough oil. Please help....................Med

Stubby, Put the saw back together and fitted the old husky 18" bar. Ran it against a cut log but very little oil pattern on the log face. But a lot of oil around were the bar clamps to the saw. I am now thinking that the seal of the rubber hose to bar is not sealing properly As when I run my finger across this area , there seems part of the rubber feed pipe seal that is flush and not proud possibly causing the oil not to be sent down the bar rail ? I am going to order a replacement oil pipe assembly and also a new sprocket, will update when fitted . Many thanks, Med

Guys, just been studying this again. I have overlayed the bar pad onto both bars as I can see a witness mark showing the position that the bars are clamped in. What are your thoughts ? Do you think that wear on the rim sprocket is the cause ? I answer to angry squirrel, the plastic pump drive is showing NO signs of wear both were the drive is taken from on the rim drive and no wear on the worm drive remarkably. I don’t know we’re to look next if I am honest? Any further help/ ideas appreciated. Thanks, Med

Adw, I will try this tomorrow night after work in case there is a mis-match between oil ways. I have had your manual, thank you very much for that and your help, much appreciated . This is a very odd issue Regards, Med Roberts

Hi guys, Firstly thanks for everybody’s help. I have just been able to strip the saw and cannot see anything obvious? The Filter on the oil pick up pipe is not plugged , the oil line to and from the pump is clear. The mounting bolts for the oil pump were tight. The worm drive hasn’t worn and the pump is free to turn by hand.Here are some pics. Basically I cannot see any issues,but IAm no expert on saws unlike MF tractors( Agricultural engineer by trade). Can somebody point out what IAm missing please ?Thanks , Med

ADW, sensible advise! I have PM 'd you, with your kind offer. Will update when I can get a minute.Thanks , Med

Guys, Thanks for the assistance. Should I order the following parts from L &S : No 6 - worm drive, No-7 oil pump assembly and No-14 mounting screws ? Would these be OEM as never used them before ? Med.

Adw, pic of Clutch type you asked for. Thank you, Med

Thanks adw, were's the quickest place to buy one of these tools ? Thanks ,Med

adw, Do I need a special tool to remove the clutch/sprocket as I have never pulled it off before ? Thanks to all in advance . Med

Hi Steve , Just seen your post. That would make perfect sense. How much of a job to get to the oil pump to check this out ? Thanks, Med ps My 395xp you ported/exhaust mod is a beast

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I was wondering about the bar oil, but I have a 395xp (spud ported) with a 28" sugihara light pro bar, which I have this weekend been ringing up a beech trunk (3ft diam) and the bar is as new with the same bar oil !! I have put the 18" husky bar back on and bar isn't showing signs of heat as the sugi bar. But I cannot see how the sugi bar oiling holes are wrong and don't want to blame the bar without evidence. How can I tell if there, is enough oil flowing ? Any ideas what to try next ? Thanks , Med

Guys, I bought a 20” sugihara light weight pro bar and chain from Rob(chainsaw bars) last week to upgrade from the well used 18” husky bar. Thinking it would be easier on the back buckin firewood. After a little use, I could see signs of overheating on the bar? The chain was not over tight, chain sharp and using proper chain oil. I have checked that the saw is oiling with bar removed,cleaned the bar rails and flipped the bar over but same occured again . I am now wondering if enough oil is being pumped, even though the oil adjuster is set to the max flow. Has anybody had oiling issues with this saw ? I have attached pics, if that helps? Not sure were to check next?? Ended up putting old bar and chain back on!

Everybody, Just like to add. This is NOTHING to do with steve's porting job!! The saw goes great after the work carried out TWO years ago and would highly recommend anybody to have him work his magic on there saw. Top guy Med