Ashes_Firewood

I keep all my logs in my garage after they've been air dried at my yard. No problems at all.

Kiln dried logs are the same as air dried, you're just paying a premium for them to be dried faster.

16 hours ago, Whoppa Choppa said:

You won't be able to keep it that cheap for long. £180/cube is about right. Or £300 for 1.4 cube near Bath.

Was thinking the same. You've done yourself there. Could have charged £120 and they'd have still been happy by the sounds of it.

On 11/11/2023 at 16:49, trigger_andy said:

Ive never had an issue with either of my Stoves. I expect the problem is people just not knowing how to properly operate their stoves rather than the manufacturer not offering stoves that do their job correctly. 

On 11/11/2023 at 17:28, spudulike said:

Most sooted up glass is usually the owners inability to use the dampers correctly followed by burning wet wood. Stoves have their little foibles and you have to get to know them to get the best out of them. Shutting the dampers completely will initially give you heat and then sooted up glass..................

Wet wood....well why would you?

Yes, a lot of people let their stoves slumber most of the time and never really get them going properly to get a good clean burn. They think they are saving on wood by it sitting their sulking in the bottom of the stove rather than burning properly. You can't tell them!

19 hours ago, Stubby said:

That's why I like my Burley stove . Its only got 2 controls . The door and the air slide .

Sounds similar to the controls on the Clearview.

On 07/11/2023 at 14:17, Steven P said:

 

A quick wipe with newspaper in the morning before use it to light the stove keeps mine acceptable - but if I didn't it would get dirty

I give mine a wipe with a damp cloth once every 3-4 weeks and that's only because there's a slight haze/film on the glass rather than any black.

Had our Clearview 7 years and it's lit every day for minimum 6 months of the year. Only had to change the firebricks last year for the first time and changed the baffle plate whilst I was at it.

Never seen anyone else's woodburner have the glass clear like you get on a Clearview either. Most people's are pretty black.

Had the fire on a few times last couple of weeks just in an evening. The woods free and saves putting the central heating on so it's a no brainer.

On 05/08/2023 at 22:43, Elliott.F said:

How do you get a uniform length on the rings if cutting by hand ?

Width of my saw including the side handle is about the length of log I want at 9-10" so just use the width of the saw as a guide.

If you want longer logs you can put cable ties on to the side handle and cut them to the length you want the log to be and that's your guide. Wrap duct tape above and below the cable ties on the handle to stop them sliding up and down.

Another vote for Ash. Keeps well. Never really that wet to start with and you can near enough dry it in lengths before even processing. Burns well too.

I get a lot of Silver Birch and its good wood once dry but it can be a bit annoying if you leave it lying round it will sweat and start rotting very quickly. I had some oversized Silver Birch that I ringed up 2 months ago and only just got round to splitting it now and all the faces are going mouldy. Will be fine once it's split and stacked but it really doesn't take well to lying round in wet weather. You can't chuck it in a vented bag like you can with Ash as it will just sweat and go mouldy so I've started stacking it.

2 hours ago, scbk said:

The doormat on the conveyor, is that there to clean the doormat as the logs brush past? 

Or is it to reduce the throw, to get the logs into bags?

I put it on to keep the water off the conveyor motor when I’m not using it. Wife got a new door mat and I thought this one was too good to go to waste 😂

The stacked stuff. Rest is in IBCs or bags

Hi. Over the years I’ve always had people on neighbouring land or within a few miles of where I’m based contact me to collect wood for free. A mixture of they’ve either had a tree surgeon in to do some work or sometimes I’ve done the work if it’s been in woodland and they’ve said I can take the wood too.

Over the last 7-8 months when I’ve had people contact me they’re quiet often looking to be paid for the wood now. So far I haven’t done as if I’m paying I’d rather get it delivered in by the lorry load. Plus I do have a supply of wood from woodlands we already own.

Anyone else finding this? I’m presuming it’s people feeling the cost of living pinch over the last 18 months.

Just an observation more than anything else. Someone has been in touch this morning which has prompted the thread 😂

Bit of Ash and Birch through the processor yesterday evening

That's what the one that's on it is like and the one I've ordered should be the same. Hoping I can tap the pin out, connect the new end to the old end and as I pull the old one out it will pull the new one through if that makes sense.

Mines getting pretty worn now so thinking of replacing it before it snaps. Is it an easy enough DIY job to change it? It’s a Posch S280. No idea how much the belt will be yet either so if anyone knows that too that would be great. Thanks.

13 hours ago, patrickgalloway3 said:

Which cars look so outlandish that you don't want to drive them? Electric mini looks like a mini. Tesla model S  looks like a generic saloon. New Audi looks like a yummy mummy's SUV. BMW id3 looked a bit different but had some genuine engineering reasons for doing so.

VW ID3/4/5, BMW IX, Cupra Born just some that spring to mind. Think all the Teslas look odd apart from the Model S too.

The Mini is one of the few that basically looks the same as it's ICE counter parts.

Main problem I have with most electric cars is that if I have to eventually have one I just want one that looks like a normal car but happens to be electric instead of petrol or diesel. Whereas most of them look weird.

In the Wood Yard

Buckin' Billy Ray Smith

1 cube a month on average. Just evenings during the week and all day and night most weekends. Basically when one of us in the fire is on.

I know this an old thread but came up when I was googling. Trying to get better at maintenance...

If I put a new sprocket on should I put a new bar and chain on or can I use the old bar and chain with the new sprocket? There's still plenty of life in the bar and chain.

I have a separate stack of logs that get made from all the knotty ugly stuff that won't split and have been ripped down with the saw. I put 1 or 2 of these on if I want to keep the fire in whilst we're out or over night and it seems to work well. Mainly Ash and Cherry at the moment.

I tried this with birch and it was only for a few weeks until I had time to split them. The ends were sweaty and going mouldy already in that time and starting to stick together. So wouldn't recommend it.

Been on most nights and all day and night over weekends for about a month now. Saves putting the central heating on. Live in an old solid stone wall house so it can get quite cold without it.

Recently got a Posch S280 and checking the oil level it looks like it could do with a small top up. The diagram in the manual looks completely different to what I’m seeing on the machine

Manual

Machine

Does anyone know if that’s the right place? It’s looks to be the only place I can obviously see and want to make sure I get it right.

The oil drain screw is also at the other end of the tank to what’s shown in the manual.

Now you've put that picture up I've remembered it does have that sticker saying what engine speed you need to get 540 on the PTO. Surely wouldn't be too hard to get the rev counter working again. If its the same on the 4000 then I need 480 on the PTO for the processor so 1600 engine revs if I've worked that out right. Thanks for your help.

1 hour ago, GA Groundcare said:

You can get a laser tacho gun for a few quid, tip'ex the PTO shaft, run the tractor up and see what revs 540 equates to. Then mark your throttle accordingly.  

Something like this?