derwen
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Posts posted by derwen
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Ok on a roll here, checked a previous thread on the forum and see two things that maybe happening with 'normal' unleaded / oil mix: "fuel going stale" and "oil breaking down". But this Aspen stuff (if you can pick it up conveniently) is pretty expensive stuff, might be better for me to mix normal petrol and oil as I need it. At least the oil won't break down if I'm mixing just before use, and even if the fuel deteriorates it can't damage the 2 stroke engine, can it?[/QUOTE]
Stale fuel has lost some of its potency ( for want of a better word) so each drop does less work. As the same volume is combined with the air mix, the machine effectively runs lean.
A 'lean mixture' will cause the engine to run hot and 'lean siezure can occur.
Thanks for the simple explanation. It now starts to make sense. The guy at the Stihl dealer ship said it looked as if the engine had run short of oil or had it got hot as the rings were embedded. I couldn't see how it had run short of oil as I mix it using the Stihl bottle, so accurate measure and wasn't aware of it running hot, but as you say lean running lean causes it to run hot and we have in effect had a lean seizure. New machine and Aspen all round me thinks.
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We are a small conservation group (volunteers) who manage the habitat on our local river. We have a number of chainsaws and brushcutters etc. Our Stihl MS 250 went in for service as well as not starting. The dealer has found that it has a partial seize ie. pot and piston gone. Reading the forum it looks as if it could have been due to stale unleaded fuel. As we only work once a week a gallon of fuel can last us months - use one or two of tank fulls a week. Debating on repairing existing saw (9 years old) or buying a new one. Also considering using Aspen as we don't use more than a couple of gallons of fuel a year. Will a new saw run on Aspen OK and our other Stihl kit - brushcutter, multitool and large drill. Would the old kit need any carb adjustment or just run OK. My Stihl dealer doesn't sell Aspen but my Husky dealer does. Could be a bit of a problem if I buy it from Husky dealer and then have to take back to Stihl dealer for setting carb. Stihl dealer hadn't heard of Aspen. Any help apprecaited.
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You will find an Oregon Micro Lite Pro and 95VPX will run nicely on your saw. Your local dealer sounds like he doesn't know much about saws if he reckons 0.325 bar and chain will run on a 3/8 sprocket of vice versa!
Thanks Spudulike. The bar is an Oregon Micro Lite Pro and the chain a Husqvarna 21. In fairness the handbook that came with the saw says that the chain can be 3/8 or 0.325 and the sprocket only shows as number of teeth being 7, which I guess means that it is a common sprocket ?. Thanks to all. Going back to dealer.
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I asked the delear if I needed to cahnge the sprocket to match the new chain and bar as one was 3/8yh and the other is .325 but he said no. Need to go back and speak to them again.. Thanks for help,
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Yes the small bar is 3/8th and the new bar is .325. The new chain has Husqvarna stamped on it and 21. The new bar is an Oregon, the new chain came in an Oregon box with 21 LPX written on it. Can't find any info on Husqvarna chains. Does anyone know if an Oregon 21 LPX is the same as a Husqvarna 21. Thanks
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Hi, looking for some advice. I have a Husky 240 for light work which has a 14" bar and have just bought an 18" bar and chain to suit from local dealer. The bar is an Oregon and rge chain is a Husky 21. Tried fitting the chain and bar today and all look OK until tried turning the chain after tensioning. The chain moves for a couple of links and then wont budge forwatd or back. If I slacken the tension the chain dropps off the bar. Tried tensioning again and same thig happens. When I turn the saw over to look at the sprocket it looks if the cahin is trying to run from inside of sprocket to out side of sprocket - thought maybe a bent link, but when I lay the chain flat it looks OK. Any ideas, although I'm going back to the delear to see if they can sort, but if there is soemthing obvious that more experienced people on here know could save me a "RED FACE". Fair to say I have only used Stihls in the past so I may be not doing something right. Many thanks
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Have a look at this drawing (imagine yourself on the left hand side)...
If you reach over even further, you can cut even thicker trunks
Tried this technique today. Fortunately the branch wasn't too high so was able to reach over and cut vertically and then horizontally as normal. Success!!. Really appreciate all you help.
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Have a look at this drawing (imagine yourself on the left hand side)...
If you reach over even further, you can cut even thicker trunks
Thanks for the explanation and excellent drawings. I will give it a try. It will depend on water depth/river bed and height of branch across river as to whether I can lift the saw over the branch and pull saw back. Even if I can't manage it on this occasion, definitely one for the future. Once again many thanks for taking the time for explanation and drawing.
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Thanks for the information. I know have an idea of what has been tining for a while. Much appreciate your help.
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Gardenkit is right - chain creep at idle with a properly tensioned chain and idle speed is down to clutch springs almost all the time and a tight needle bearing or string/crap around the bearing/shaft rarely.
You usually get that annoying tinging noise as well Grrrrr:lol:
We have an old small Dolmar and the chain creeps, not all the time but more often than not and yes we have that tinging noise. Are you saying tinging is due to weak clutch springs or tight needle bearing. Is it the needle bearing that the chain brake/clutch sit on. Thanks for the help - saw has even been in for service and came out the same. Something I might look at myself - any tips help much appreciated.
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What is the diameter of the trees? It doesn't seem worth the money and effort of new bar and chains for an extra 2 inches.
You can easily fell and cut up trees with a diameter of 32" using a 16" bar. And if you rarely have to deal with trees of that size, don't bother with the longer bar.
Thanks for trying to save me money. The problem is the tree has fallen and is across the river, with one major branch on the river bed, which is ok as it will be left to form a weir. We are looking to remove the upper branches. The majority have been cut back and now have some about 16" diameter (main limbs). The problem is I can only stand in the water upstream of the tree and cut. The water is too deep to go down stream and put another cut in from the other side. So an extra 2" would help. Unless there is something obvious I'm missing - in being able to cut 16" from one side, any help appreciated.
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Thanks for quick reply. The pitch is .325".
An 18" bar would be fine as it gives me an extra 2".
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Hi,
I do a lot of conservation work with our local rivers trust. They have a Stihl MS 250 and has been used for well over 6 years. The bar at the moment is 40cm (16"), however we have a large tree down over a river and are looking to increase the bar size to cope with the large diameter of the tree. Can anyone advise what is the biggest bar that can be fitted. We don't want to buy a bigger saw for what will be limited work. If I go to a bigger bar and compatible chain, will I need to change the sprocket as well. I have the necessary CS tickets. Thanks
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I feel for anyone who has to go through this, having been there a few times and I know it is the right decision, its still not easy. Found this poem some months ago and though very sad I think it sums it up of what we have to do no matter how hard. You will have made the right decision.
If it should be that I grow frail and weak
And pain should keep me from my sleep
Then you must do what must be done
for this battle cannot be won.
You will be sad, I understand
Don’t let your grief then stay your hand
For this day, more than all the rest
Your love and friendship stands the test
We’ve had those nine years
What is to come holds no fear
Would you want me to suffer so
When the time comes, let me go
Take me where my needs they’ll tend
Only stay with me to the end
And hold me firm and speak to me
Until my eyes no longer see
I know in time that you will see
It is kindness that you do to me
Although my tail it’s last has waived
From pain and suffering I’ve been saved
Don’t grieve if it should be you
Who must decide this thing to do
We’ve been so close we two these years
Don’t let your heart hold any tears
--
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Stephen, probably in the land of nod now and the theatre guys doing their amazing work. Hope it all goes well and a speedy recovery. All credit it to you for publishing your mistake, which is easily done - how many of us have tried to catch something when we shouldn't have. Your honesty will be a lesson to all of us. As before speedy recovery and hope the pain gets better.
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Dropped a Stihl MS 240 into a river about 12 months ago. It dried out naturally within an hour and after a bit of a splutter it started and has run no problem ever since - amazing things these saws.
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Many thanks to all who replied.
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I'm new on here. Completed my CS30/31 earlier this year..Just doing a few jobs a month and looking at a cheap saw. Work will mainly be logs and fell a few small trees. Looking at Stihl MS 181 or 211 or Husky 240. Any advice please. People talk about small trees on other threads, but what are you calling small trees - I would be looking at 12 - 14". Many thanks
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I'm new on here. Completed my CS30/31 earlier this year..Just doing a few jobs a month and looking at a cheap saw. Looking at Stihl MS 181 or 211 or Husky 240. Any advice please. People talk about small trees, but what are you calling small trees. Many thaks
Fuel Mix
in Chainsaws
Posted
This may sound obvious but I'll ask it anyway. We have just bought some unleaded petrol about 4 weeks ago and have it mixed with 2 stroke oil. As we have about 2.5 litres left rather than throw it away ( not sure how) would it be OK to top up with Aspen and run the machines on an unleaded 2 stroke mix with Aspen in it. I assume its OK to use Aspen in any 2 stroke engine (not motor bikes as far too expensive !!). Thanks.