David Goss

I've had a 500 for nearly a year now and do like it for rough ground but unlike some others thought it could do with a bit more torque, yes press the trigger and it spools up fast. I sent it off to have some "surgery" and it's out killing Redwoods in California on a test run before coming back to more skyline work. The guy doing the work is happy that it's hard to see a big difference compared to a same level ported 661 but as he pointed out at 2+ lbs lighter than a 661 it's clear the 500 is the winner. As for being thirsty it is after all a 80cc class saw that encourages you to run it flat out !

Second day with it and I am liking it even more. Been cutting some big timber with it and not having any trouble with it whatsoever. The only negative I can come up with so far is it runs so fast it’s hard to mark timber without just cutting the log off! We are felling and marking because the timber needs winched our whole on a steep slope but that beast of a saw just wants to cut everything as fast as it can! I certainly wouldn’t be using it for carving [emoji12] I don’t think the tank is that big so it probably seems greedier than it actually is but I must admit I am having to fill it a lot.

One of the trees I did today with the 500i. It’s a beast! Full power instantly as soon as you squeeze the trigger. Think I am going to enjoy that saw [emoji1303]

I just ordered the 500 this morning so will get it tomorrow and probably be using it on Wednesday [emoji16][emoji1303] not heard anything bad about it except Al saying it’s a bit thirsty ( like most bigger saws really) will post again when I have put it through its paces.

Using them both side by side today and the 462 is faster in the cut , it does not feel like a stihl .. it feels more like a 562xp on steroids with a femme handle and trigger... I do really like it though and would choose that and a 550xp for my woods saws.

500i just won’t bog down will pull a huge bar and loads of torque ,needs air filter cleaning daily though.. it’s very nice to use in a tree or felling big stuff.

I been needing to get a new workhorse for the larger trees and was thinking either the 500i or the 462. With there not being a huge difference in price I was thinking the 500i would be the best choice. I been using a 460 and will probably cry when I retire it [emoji12]

Any suggestions, reviews would be great [emoji1303]

I am a cutter/climber with 28 years experience free to work on Mondays. All other days are full but may be flexible if needed. Call or message me on 07976 460509.

Aye been sweating ma nuts off as usual. Getting old and everything hurts nowadays but still at it.

not posted in this site for a looooooong time but when I saw my daughter do a lunge I couldn’t resist.

Ding Dong the witch is dead! I for one will be having a celebratory drink or 2. Satan will be rubbing his hands with glee with a catch like that one!

Don't worry about the clunk as you sit back on your harness, it happens all the time if you pull up onto a limb for example and everything goes loose then a crab or something can turn a little and then clunk back into place as you put your weight back down. I would suggest you check often your crabs and any other metalwork is sitting correctly, especially after things go loose. Not so much of a worry while moving around but a must when cutting heavy stuff.

Can we start this thread again please?

just answering a question

Nice idea for a thread but does seem to be sliding somewhat.

 

How about giving difficult scenarios,ill start.

 

Tree over hanging a greenhouse that you need to prune.will be very difficult to lower as the branches will get snagged and hung up on the way down.what do you do?

 

Throw out some suggestions so we can give these guys loads of answers.

 

Stay safe

 

Jake:thumbup1:

 

set up a system with 2 pulleys one in tree and one on ground, have your lowering rope tied to make a continuous loop. Attach each branch to rope using a sling and the groundie can pull them out of the tree. Like a zip line with a difference. Other than that cut the pieces small enough to throw away from the breakables.

Adam,

 

I'm not gonna waste time arguing about this. Peter has problems pulling himself up the tree, if that's the case he'll have a problem holding his weight with one hand as he advances the hitch. He needs to either lose weight or get strong.

 

 

 

David,

 

A few cosmetic plucks? never seen a working climber's rope before? it's miles off failing a Loler examination, I know this cause I'm a LOLER assessor so dont insult my intelligence by telling me it would fail.

 

Also if any other Loler assessors want to say it would fail, your risking your professional credibility on a public forum based on a photograph.

 

Here's some advice for new climbers, be wary of where you get your advice from, the tree industry is full of self proclaimed experts.

 

Geez calm down man it was only a passing observation cos it looks well rough, no need to bite my head off when i never said it would fail

Adam, 50% of the friction is not removed from the system, it's displaced from the branch into the hitch which is not always a good thing.

 

On the Blakes with a micro pulley, it's a good idea to add one of those small accessory/keyring biners or something similar between your main krab and the micro pulley as it allows the pulley more freedom to turn to either side as you take up the slack and also when the micropulley is acting as a fair lead.

 

did that orange rope in pic 3 pass its loler?

I've spiked up a stick and realised i left my mainline on the deck

 

haha i blew a soggy bit of dorito out my nose laughing.... only cos i have done the same:blushing:

 

So have I, I've even free climbed up an easy conifer and had to come down to get a climbing line.

 

Not done that yet but there is still time

 

I would like to know what it is about the "Prussik" that I was taught to use that stops people using it.

 

All I here talk of are Distel and VT and Blakes and Khliem (not sure of these spellings sorry)

 

I asked about them on my CS38 and can't say I was given a solid reason why they are not part of the course.

 

 

Prussik rocks and dont let anyone tell you different:sneaky2:

I was taught on a prussik and still use one on my flipline, in fact here is another little tip if you use the magic prussik... It can be used in BOTH directions so when you are in a bit of a bad position and you need to change position of your flipline but you dont want to take off the anchor you have till you are ready, you can throw over the tail end and attach it to your harness, then release the prussik till you start using the other end of your flipline and then take off the original anchor.

 

Is that understandable? i am tired:001_rolleyes:

First i have seen this thread cos i have not been on the talk for a while....

Seems you have had a tough time mate but i am glad you got the good news in the end.

Great idea for a thread Adam:thumbup1:

I will start with a little bit of advice you might find funny but it does happen a lot if you got a mass of work ahead of you.... STOP!!! think, do i have my short strop/flipline with me?

Yea i have looked down many a time and thought DOH! when i see it lying on the ground

I could come down at a push but it would need to be worth my time. Let me know if you cant get anyone closer and we can work something out.

when is a polesaw needed in a tree? apart from doing line clearance?

 

I know some guys who'll get nice and comfy in the middle of a tree the fire away with the poles, mostly dead wooding that is:p

 

im in that school

 

me too

 

nah its okay, ill jus' climb instead

 

Or do both lol

 

yea both is still needed but the pole saw can save you a lot of messing around and for deadwooding its the doggys proverbials. I use the silky zubat pole saw cos the blade is bendy and you can cut at weird angles with it. I always have it with me on every job, sometimes i use it and sometimes i dont but i would hate to not have it with me.

Wow thats a hefty price tag! Great idea but sod that with knobs on, thats just way too much cash.

Good man Alec

Hey mate do you work in edinburgh?if so who for? or is it for yourself,am coming back to Scotland on the 18th and am looking for some work/contacts from then on.

Cheers

Paul

 

Freelance for anyone that needs/wants me.

Thats the thing though, every year elms die then they sucker then they get to x height then the beetles feed on them and infect them because they ate infected elms for brekkie.

 

I think so anyway, just hope someone more knowledgeable doesn't come along and shoot me down, call me a halfwit and be generally rude about the whole business:001_smile:

 

if someone laughs at you for having your own ideas then they are the halfwits. I find most times the so called experts are only guessing themselves and some of them can be complete halfwits!! best to keep your own views and believe others only when there is solid proof that you understand perfectly.

Saying that though i could be a halfwit too:001_tt2:

Pruning is no longer done by a percentage as the spec was too vague, BS 3998:2010 now states a meterage should be stated ie take 50cm off, take 1m off each branch etc

 

If it's possible try to get and keep one anchor point and work the tree in quarters (or more), or work round it like peeling an orange. Takes time and practice but you'll get there

 

Sent from my Galaxy S2

 

Ok so i am old school AGAIN!

percentage is all i have unless i know the size of the tree. I cant tell him to take a meter off if he should only be taking 50cm off so percentage is all i can advise on at the moment.

 

I often take the very tops off first because sure as hell when you have perfectly cut every branch below and then take the top, you will break some of your pruning points. Clearing out dead, rubbing and broken branches on your way up gives you a better idea of what you have left to work with.