ry2
-
Posts
19 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by ry2
-
Just a bit confused!! Too many big words!
-
Cheers will do right now!.............
-
How far has the honey fungus travelled underground once the mushrooms appear on the surface? Also when is the best time to have our stump ground out I hear autumn is not good due to spores? Lastly if I may- Can airbourne honey fungus spores only affect dead trees/woody plants? and living trees can only be affected via the underground rhizomorphs?
-
Do you use Planning Portal - The UK Government's online planning and building regulations resource ?
-
why is it so complicated!!!!!
-
I am going to make an online application instead of a paper/post application now. It says this on the planning portal site : "Every planning application needs a site location plan and a block plan showing the location and boundaries of the site you are planning to work on. The Planning Portal's accredited partners will ensure that you meet your local planning authorities requirements, whether you are a planning professional or first-time applicant." But in the actual application forms it only asks for a sketch plan?!?!? (the application is for works to my tpo tree not a conservation area application as i first thought) Does any one know by any chance do i have to buy a plan from their 'accredited partners'!?
-
What about beech hedges?
-
What is the legal height of a neighbours hedge? What length constitutes a hedge? ie what length of trees planted next to each other determines it as a hedge? eg if three of the same trees planted next to each other are around 12 ft in length- is that a hedge?
-
whats digital newsletter?
-
Thanks for all your replies peeps much appreciated! Makes an interesting read
-
I am in Warwickshire if this makes any difference ( the scale is actually 1:1250 not 1:2500 as i stated before. The other map is 1:500 which is where i have drew the tree in question)
-
I drew a sketch first of all, they then sent it back saying they need to be in scale, so i bought the ordnance survey maps online and sent it to them and i have just received it back again because i only highlighted in red the back garden where the tree is in and not my front garden! So even though they asked for a scaled plan, i could have just printed off a google map? (which isn't to the scale they asked) ?
-
I live in a conservation area and have to apply for work on a tree. Do i have to pay (£37 from streetwise maps) for the 1:500 and 1:2500 scaled ordnance survey maps my council are asking me for? Is it every time you act as an agent for your customers they always have to pay for the maps?
-
Does anyone know if what i have posted eg my last two posts are fair comments at all? I am just learning and appreciate all comments Thank you
-
Originally Posted by ry2 oh sorry, i mean overall, generally speaking for most trees- why, are there some trees that pollarding is a better choice than a crown reduction? I realise there may be different reasons why a pollard may be better than a crown reduction for example when there are disease/pests or decay etc in the crown and need to bring it below for safety reasons but i should have asked the question- "Assuming there are not any disease/pests or decay etc in the crown are there some trees that pollarding is a better choice than a crown reduction with maintaining the trees natural character in mind? As i have seen the re growth from a pollard on London Plain and lime trees which looks like a toilet brush with lots of quite straight growth, where as i would prefer to look at the trees natural bendy characteristics.
-
This is what i think. I guess the answer is subjective. I also heard that larger wounds that you'd get from the pollard are worse for the tree than smaller wounds? I did think of Bolt's post about the fact that you would have to keep pruning higher and higher every few years to get it back to decent growth and eventually be left with no choice but to cut back to wood (as opposed to growth) if the species allows as some may not grow back from pollards like conifer or a beech doesn't have very advanticious buds.
-
oh sorry, i mean overall, generally speaking for most trees- why, are there some trees that pollarding is a better choice than a crown reduction?
-
So pollarding vs crown reduction- is it purely TIME that is a factor? (and also more tricky work to reduce) If time wasn't an issue would it always be better to do a full crown reduction on the tree back to growth points before it out grows its situation? and would this ensure the trees natural character vs cutting back to stumps and loads of shoots coming out? like you see on a lot of street trees?
-
Hello I just wanted to ask some professionals: Why do they pollard street trees? is it purely because they have been left to grow too far and because the council has decided they want them a certain height they then have to be harshly cut back? Where as if they would have been cut back earlier once they have reached a maximum height allowed could there natural character be saved as they are cut back to growth and not have harsh cuts right back into the wood?
