Fiskar

impressed with this Swiss burning method that was pointed out in another thread on this forum.

I have used it 3 weeks tops and am at 85% fire start sucess but getting better all the time. Cannot say thanks enough to a fellow poster for pointing it out. It saves me a huge amoount of fire setting time and even other family members can start the fire reliably. Have used paper only once to move things along quicker.

Sorry to hear that, best of luck with the new unit.

Thanks for that info tz1 on the swiss burning method.

Good stuff, have mine lit as due to have a frost here tonight, roasty toasty. Burning rotten beech (burns like dry spruce), nice and hot

OP, I have a 163 installed a year, nice stove. At the start when I got it I had a lot of difficulty starting it, I also have a Morso 1412 Squirrel.

Both are DEFRA stoves but they both have to be lit differently, the Morso being easier as it has two air vent dampers. The F163 has a facility for an outside air attachment if air is a problem you may need to attach this to the outside.

I too had a lot of issues with black glass at the start and had to clean it with paper and ashes 3 times in the first month but have not cleaned the glass since May as I now light it correctly. The 163 has self cleaning glass, when you get a good hot fire going it will clean the soot off the glass quite quickly.

You have to light it with very dry newspaper, kindling, 1 small firelighter and layer the logs across it. Pull the damper out fully, light the paper and leave the door ajar until all the paper is lit and the kindling has started to light. Then close the door, wait until the fire has taken hold on the logs before pushing the damper in to the red line. One the logs are burning well then you can push the damper in about 5 to 10mm further.

I now have on the vertical flue 100 mm above the top of the stove a magnetic flue thermometer (Lidl) that was given to me. Once it hits 200C I close in the damper, not before that.

I burn maple, pine and ash in it and cannot fault it.

Hope this of help.

The ebay link was just an example to show that the 261 and 291 might use the same sprocket.

 

Take both saws apart and see if the sprockets are inter changeable.

 

Personally I would go down the rim sprocket route so I could run 7x325,8x325 and 7x3/8.

Will do C.J, when finished with this Beech tree I am getting through. Then time to service and play around with the saws.

Thanks for the help.

thanks for that guys.

Will defo at getting that part off ebay

Thanks for the replies. For some reason the new 291 was set-up with a 3/8 bar and chain from the model number on the bar and the box for the chain so will look to change that set-up to a .325 set-up at some stage.

Thanks guys,

Spud, If I change the sprocket do I need to change the bar for .325 chain? Do you have the parts list for a 261?

Saw Troll, noticed that straight away, no captive nuts, no de-compression valve, plastic cover on the 291, even the air filter was cheapo.

261 is my favourite saw, such power and does not bog down. Will use it for bucking and the 291 for sawing into logs. Will suss out the combinations as per the link.

Thanks

Hi folks,

Have me an MS 261 and a new MS 291.

On the MS 261 is a 16" bar, .325", 1.6mm and for a 67 link chain

On the MS 291 is a 16" bar, 3/8", 1.6mm and for a 60 link chain.

The 261 appears to have a rim sprocket and the 291 has a regular toothed sprocket.

On the MS 261 the chain is a .325" 26 RSC 67 link.

On the MS 291 the chain is a 3/8" 36RS 60 link.

Which saw has the better chain? I think the 261.

As they both have the same power I feel the .325 cuts better than the chain bar combo on the MS 291.

If I want the same chain that I use on the MS 261 on the MS 291, do I need to change to a rim sprocket of same teeth as the MS 261, the bar and of course the chain on the MS 291?