old hand

Sometimes when cutting fresh sappy wood resin coats the sides of the blade which causes friction as it goes through the cut. This in turn causes the blade to get hot and loose tension and wobble in the cut which causes more friction, more heat and so on. to prevent this use a sharp blade with proper set  (if not TCT). run at the correct speed, if the blade has been overheated get it retensioned by a saw doctor, and last of all clean the resin from the blade regularly using a solvent like pe*rol. And don't force the saw through the cut

Does anyone have a KRPAN CS420 processor as apparently some have been sold in the UK?

Remember that if you double the log size you quadruple the cross section. So as chippers get bigger they need a big step up in horse power and torque.

IH475 has Perkins A4.212 engine as used in most MF165

8.8 is only normal strength bolts 10.9 is high tensile

Very dangerous cutting multiple small stems with clamping in my humble opinion.

Can I please correct the above. I meant to say 'Very dangerous cutting multiple small stems WITHOUT clamping in my humble opinion.'

Very dangerous cutting multiple small stems with clamping in my humble opinion.

In terms of petrol saw benchs, for a 700mm saw you want to have at least 10hp. Early Hakki Pile Eagles were a available with 5.5hp Honda, which was fine on 100mm logs but very slow on anything bigger. Larges fitted a few with Kohler engines, either 8.5hp or 10hp with 2:1 reduction on the engine to get the gearing right. I have used a Posch with the 13hp B&S engine and it is as fast as a pto. I currently have a BGU with Honda GX 270 (9hp). This is also on top of the job.

Watch out for pto spec on 5100 range some JD have only 540 pto speed and I think it advisable to buy a tractor with both 540 and 1000

Can't speak personally about the Iveco, but do some relief driving of i-shift Volvo FM and FH on milk tankers which is hard on transmissions, they have been very reliable and are an absolute doodle to drive. A lot less tiring for the driver than manual transmission.

I know this has be discussed over and over, but there have been allot of changes in chippers in the last few years.. How are recent sub 750 models holding out which are the best..

 

I am not interested in "the get a trailer licence" argument or anything over 750kg.. I have never really used little chippers. I have two 10 inch chippers and a small 7 inch... But I am contemplating a sub 750kg so freelancers or new staff can tow.

 

This is my list of what is out there...

Greenmech Arborist 150- 26hp or 34hp Kubota diesel engine

Greenmech Quadchip 160 – 34hp diesel

 

Timberwolf TW230DHB 35hp Kubota 4 cylinder engine

Timberwold 240 34HP Kubota 3-cylinder What happened to them?

 

Vermeer BC160XL 19.4 kW (26 hp) Kohler diesel engine

 

Jenson 530L 34HP Kubota

 

Raptor 750 38hp diesel engine

 

TP- 130 Mobile 24hp

 

Schliesing 175 MX Kubota engine 15.4 kW (21 hp)

 

Don’t do one:

Bandit

Forst

Landforce

Tunnissen

The new TP175 is sub 750kg with 35hp engine

A few years ago I went to a demonstration of large well known Austria chippers. They had 2 identical machines working side by side. One had a conveyor (supposedly taking less hp) and the other was the conventional blower type, both loading bulk trucks. A light breeze was blowing and the chips from the conveyor machine were being blown over the side of the truck where as the blower model blasted them into the trailers with very little spillage. You also don't have the range of adjustment of discharge with a conveyor. Only my observations.

My Nilfisk 150.1 is back in for repair at the moment and relative to the amount of use it has had has been in for repair too many times. Nothing major but annoying small repairs. I intend to change it for a Kranzle. I had one a few years ago and regretted selling it.

Make sure it's the version with hydraulic saw drive and not one of the early belt machines.

I've been able source genuine Solo parts from a Germany dealer who advertises on fleabay.

If its a very early 220 the gap between the flywheel paddles and the housing was wider than it should have been. Cured by welding flat plate on each paddle ( cut three pieces exactly the same so you don't knock the balance out) leaving clearance of 5-6mm. You can check the clearance by sticking a magnet on each paddle in turn and rotating the flywheel by hand.

Speaking as someone who has not been at the Arb show for the last 3 years, (but who was involved on a trade stand for 5 years before that) I can only say that the move to Westonbirt

has been very positive. The well known forestry equipment company I now work for made several substantial sales on the Friday and also some on the Saturday. In addition we also have a good number of leads to follow up. The organisers checked with us several times over the 2 days to see that everything was satisfactory, (something not all event organisers do). So we'll done to all at the Arboricultural Association.

Hakki Pilke (Maaselan Kone), Japa and Palax are all owned by the same holding company (Terra Patris) in Finland.

Providing the 3000 hydraulic pump is OK. The Jussi only needs 9litres/min @175 bar.

I have some old stock Dolmar parts including clutch drums and solid nose bars. I will check if I have anything for a 133 and will pm you if I have.

I will have a TP250 pto available in the next few weeks. Will be putting it on Arbtrader.

To go back to the origional question. The best time to fell your trees is in winter /early spring. Stack them to season naturally and for the quantity involved bring in a chipping contractor to produce the chips for your boiler.

Used to sell them for debarking logs. Came via Lumbermate before the Logosol tie up. Were't CE marked then, not sure what the situation is now. As for the price of £600 somebody is taking the**** big time. They used to be under£200

According to the Palax brochure the KS35 should be run at 400rpm on the pto shaft. To work out the engine revs on the tractor divide the pto rated rpm by 540 and multiply by 400. e.g. if your tractor gives 540 at 2000 rpm divide 2000 by 540 and multiply by 400 which will give an engine rpm of 1481. I would run at the recommended speed. Running faster will overheat the hydraulic oil which will result in hydraulic pump wear, hardened 'O' rings and seals in the spool valves and hardened seals in the hydraulic cylinders, all for a very marginal short term gain in output.

Can you post a photo of what you have got /or the model numbers of the manufacturers plate ?