haforbes

Just looking for recommendations for a tractor mounted log splitter. I’m not doing thousands of tons of logs but we do a fair amount for our own use and sell a little. I’ve been recommended an Oxdale splitter but it looks a fairly light duty build? Ideally just after something that’s reasonably quick and with a comfortable working height, also one that won’t break the bank! Would happily buy a used machine if there’s anything around? Located in Devon. Thanks

No I haven’t got a post peeler, to be honest it’s not really for fence stakes so much, more so for sawn boards. I thought I’d mention the stakes because I know the posts they’ve been pumping out haven’t been the best quality. I thought someone might have a good way to treat them. Although we’ve mostly been using chestnut stakes, so far they are lasting fairly well. To be honest I’d rather avoid creosote as well! A few years ago I found a very old drum of it and decided to paint some external timber with it. I spent most of that night awake being sick…which was nice! Larch or douglas would be great, a neighbour is pumping tons of the stuff through a chipper for biomass so I might see if I can get some!

I’m thinking about sawing up my own softwood timber for my own use but it would need treating with some sort of preservative. I live in a particularly wet area and a lot of the timber purchased over the past few years isn’t lasting very well, especially fencing stakes! Some of the older stakes on the farm have significantly outlasted new stakes. So the question is, what’s the best method of treating the timber? There’s a pressure treating place not far from me which is an option, I’ve heard some are using creosote but not sure that’s what it used to be. Many thanks [emoji1303]

I did pay vat but I’m vat registered so not sure if it’ll make any difference?? Cheers

Sorry I didn’t see this. Tree size is generally from 50cm up to 120cm, will still have to fire up the Alaskan for the larger stuff but that’s no problem. Currently I just mill my own timber and occasionally buy in bits from some local mates who sell firewood...if I can convince them not to chop them up for logs. I’d be looking at buying in small amounts of softwood to keep the mill fed at first. Possibly oak for framing but need some more education before that point! I spoke to Chris at woodland mills today and he was helpful and honest about the quality of the competition. So I bit the bullet and went for the 130max. It’s a fair price jump up to the others and for my needs I couldn’t justify it, I figure if it goes well I can look at moving on to a better setup in the future. Cheers for all the help[emoji1303]. Will report back when I’ve got the mill set up and cutting, I think there’s quite a backlog of orders, apparently demand in the US and Canada has gone up 300%!

Would you say it’s worth the additional cost for the Logosol? Unless I’m not looking properly the 130max doesn’t have an electric motor option which is a shame

Forgot to mention that. I’ve got the option of 3phase, not sure if there’s any advantage other than running costs? And most likely static

Thanks for the reply Andy! Glad you’re getting on well the Logosol, on the specs it does did look like a good option. The only thing putting off the woodland mill is that it comes with 3.1m cutting length, I would guess most people buy the extension. Would be good to hear from any else with experience of the other manufacturers, difficult to find anyone who’s used more than one brand. Don’t worry I’ll be hanging on the my Alaskan [emoji6], I haven’t got deep enough pockets for a bandsaw mill that big! Thanks

I’m slowly convincing myself to move to a bandsaw and give my Alaskan a rest. Just curious what anyone would recommend for an entry level bandsaw mill? So far looking at woodland mills hm130max, Logosol b751, woodmizer lt15 and trakmet tt600. But to be honest I don’t know anything about any of them other than the price difference! I’ve got loading equipment which is a bonus so just the basic models needed. If all goes to plan would be milling mostly larch, douglas and a bit of cedar. Occasional bits of beech, ash and oak. Any advice is appreciated [emoji1303]

Apologies if this has been covered before! I’m looking at converting my 346 silverside to a 3/8 chain just because all my other saws run 3/8. I’m assuming it would pull the bigger chain? I’m rubbish with chain sizes etc...what exactly would I need to do the conversion? Sprocket, chain size and 16” bar? Thanks in advance

On the hunt for someone with a mobile set up capable of as close to 2m diameter as possible. If anyone can think of anything let me know! Thanks

I’ve been milling with a 395 running a 42” but I’ve got a load of timber to mill that’s too big for my mill, the biggest is nearly 2m. So I’m now thinking is it time to get a bigger saw, maybe an 880, or can I push the 395 with a bigger bar?

I'm rubbish at identifying timber so could anyone tell me what these two are? The darker one has a very strong smell when it's cut. Cheers!

Hi, I've been toying with the idea of getting an Alaskan mill for a while, before I part with my cash it would be ideal to have a look at one working in the flesh and have a chat etc...Id be able to lend a hand for an hour or so for free 👍. If there's any takers, drop me a message. Thanks

Hi, I've decided to get my old 110 back to road worthy condition through the winter. While I'm at it I'm fitting a tipping body from an Ldv. I've just put the tipping gear on and it sits very high, which I was expecting, but it looks a little too high(photo attached). Before I start making alterations, I was wondering if any other tipper owners could give me an idea of height of the bed floor from a reference point on the chassis? Rear x member would be easiest maybe.. Any help appreciated!