ajmoore1

Yep I agree, but customer supplied materials. Not keen on wooden gates, always twist and sag over time.

I got the tyres as I had a contract cutting rugby club pitches and didn't want proper ballon grass tyres as do the fencing and a lot of hedgecutting. Tyres are good on the hedge cutting as don't get any bounce that you can get with normal Ag tyres. They are suppose to be snow tyres.

Few pics of some fencing and gates hung that we have done. Enjoy the fencing but it is proper hard work.

Might treat myself to a set of Hayes as hopefully going to be doing more work. Can they be used with barb wire as well as plain? When you strain up with the monkey type strainers do you just tie off the ends and it keeps tight or crimp or gripples. Cheers

Hi I have got a fencing job to do and the top wire is plain. I have usually used barb on the top which I can strain tight and staple behind the barb on the strainer to keep it tight. I think it might be time to invest in a set of monkey type strainers. I plan on tying the wire off on the strainers and using the monkey type strainers to tension then join with a gripple. Most lengths of the fence are only between 50- 70m long, would a gripple tension up 50m length of plain wire with just the gripple tool? The monkey type strainers I am looking at are http://http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chain-Strainer-Monkey-Cattle-Fence-Stretcher-Tensioner-Repair-Pull-Fence-/141160472509 Has anyone used these or am I better off buying a more expensive set? Thanks in advance.

Going to get a post auger for the takeuchi tb016 mini digger. Main duties will be for erecting post and rail and drilling pilot holes for strainers before knocking them in. What size augers would you recommend. Thinking of 4inch and 6 or 8 inch. Which size would be best for 5x3posts 6 or 8. Also what is the best way to erect post and rail using 5*3 posts with the auger. 1. Drill 4inch pilot hole and knock in 2 Drill 6inch or 8 inchhole and back fill with concrete or soil. Many thanks

Use the digger quite a bit on landscaping jobs so will be keeping it.

The knocker I have got hasn't got a rock spike. It's a quantock pd5, (200kg) weight. I am considering swapping but have few options, 1. swap it for a protech 200 with rock spike. Advantages are it's got the rock spike and side shift which mine currently hasn't got. 2. keep my existing knocker and put the money to buy a hydraulic auger for the mini digger. We have got a takeuchi tb016 1.5 ton. Not sure which would be the best, current knocker struggles with big gate post but if I bored a 4inch pilot hole first would that be ok? Can only afford to do one so what do people think auger or knocker with bigger weight side shift and rock spike. Cheers

Hi, I have been asked to price a fencing job up, usually charge £2m for labour on stock proof fencing. This job is only 310m but is made up of 12 small lengths and 8 wooden gates. So probably 24 strainers and 16 gates posts. Access I s pretty good but probably 40m stretch to do by hand. Client is to supply the materials. When hanging wooden gates would you use a 7/8inch round post or 8inch square? Square posts taking longer to install as can't knock them in. Also do you use the gate post as a strainer or place strainer 6ft from gate post and rail from strainer to gate post, I prefer not to use the gate post as strainer as if it gets knocked easier to repair. This will obviously have a bearing on the price. Ground is pretty good so should be able to drive most of the posts in but you never know when dealing with under ground stuff. How do people generally charge for shorter lengths and how much for hanging gates, do you do them cheaper if round posts are knocked in compared to square dug post. Thanks in advance Jon

Would this be working for ground control?

I have got a 2.9m port agric roller mower. Not a bad machine but need to be cutting the grass regular or the grass sits on the top.

Hi, We own a piece of woodland/bog and as it is classed as sssi site we get paid to do certain works. They have asked for a price to fell 10 small birch trees approx 8inch diameter in the bog part and move into the woodland and remove a few seedling. I didn't see the chap when he shown my dad the job but he mentioned criss crossing the stumps and painting the cut stumps with something to stop them regrowing but my dad can't remember what he said! Any suggestions what it the best product to put on them? They are mainly silver birch. Thanks in advance Jon

Hi, I mainly do logs but have started to do a bit of fencing work recently. I have been asked to put up a post and rail fence and was thinking of investing in an auger drive and 12inch bit for our mini digger. The digger is a 1.5 ton Takeuchi, has anyone got any experience of using these with an auger? I have hired a hand held stihl one and that was pretty hard work on your own. Have got a tractor mounted post knocker but always find with square posts they twist and can't get the accurate enough. Any advice welcome as I don't fancy hand digging. Cheers Jon

Hi all, Been reading this forum for a while and found it very informative and helpfull. I have been doing logs for a few years now mainly for personal use and family. I am from a farming back ground and do agricultural contracting part time. Over the years i have been able to get enough timber from wind blown trees and odd clearing jobs but supplies are going down quicker than they are being replemished. I have got a bit of machinery now, Tractor and loader, log splitter,ms 880.390 and an empty silage pit !!!so am looking at utilising the stuff and give me something to do on wet winter days. So am after an artic load or any from local tree surgeons. I am based near wrexham. Many thanks Jon

Hi all Few pics of my machinery. Looking for more timber to log if anyone knows of any in the Wrexham area, prepared to pay. Cheers Jon