morten

 

There is no iron in nikasil as far as I know.

No. But NaOH will neither react with steel/iron, chrome or nickel/nikasil. HCl will react with at least the steel in the cast cylinder. That was my point.

For a demonstration of the reaction between Sodium Hydroxide and Aluminium, see this video:

https://youtu.be/FllkuxXM6cE

And a video comparing reaction between Aluminium and both Acid (HCl) and Base (NaOH)

I am curious to know if anyone has experience using Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) to remove aluminium transfer from cylinders?

Sodium Hydroxide is generally used as drain cleaner and for stripping off paint and is also called Caustic Soda, Lye, and is freely available at very low cost.

Advantages over Muriatic Acid (HCl):

- No dangerous Chrloride fumes.

- No unintended etching into steel/nikasil (cylinder), so not as critical to be careful applying it to Alu transfers. NaOH simply does not react chemically with steel or nickel/chrome.

I see no disadvantages.

I have had good experiences using it. Anybody else tried it?

I use cotton swabs and a toothbrush for applying the chemicals to the aluminium transfers.

WARNING! Be careful when dissolving Sodium Hydroxide pellets in water. The process is highly exothermic (generated heat). So pour pellets into water, not the other way around. And use appropriate containers

The model is 100602

The type is 0153 B8

 

Its a valid model and appears on the Briggs IPL list. I have just tried it.

 

Download a QR code app and scan the code, this should lead you straight to parts lists and manuals.

 

Failing that, pm me your email and I will send it to you.

Thanks, got it

I have been trying to identify the Briggs & Stratton engine model number to locate the manual online at https://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en_gb/support/manuals.html

The label (see attached photo) specifies:

Regardless of how I chop up this model number, I cannot find 6 digits that results in a valid model number.

It doesn't fit the "Engine Model Key" as described in this document: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/Engine_Model_Key_Rev_2-11.pdf

Any help would be appreciated

PS: The QR code resolves to this text: S1102238887718P1006020153B8

I run full skip on my 372 and 3120 but it's not available for the 560 in 325"

 

The other day I knocked a few teeth off a nearly new chain, can I remove every other tooth so it's balanced and create a skip chain?

 

Or is it too late in the day for creativity?

A real semi-skip or full-skip chain cannot be made from a full-complement chain, as the L/R cutters are moved along the chain links for balance and smoothness.

Look here for explanation and illustration: Chain Sequence Explained

If necessary, you COULD simulate a skip chain by removing cutters, but it will cut rougher and create more vibrations than a real semi/full-skip chain.

If you imagine that line 1. below is a full complement chain, you can make an approximation of a semi skip chain (2.), by removing every third cutter. You can also make an approximation of a full skip chain (3.) by removing two consecutive cutters, and leaving the next two:

1. L,R,L,R,L,R ...
   
2. L,R,_,R,L,_ ...
   
3. L,R,_,_,L,R ...
   

If you compare the space occupied by the missing cutters, it is FAR longer than on a real semi/full-skip chain, where the missing cutters are spread out along the chain links. Therefore the manually produced skip chains will cause a lot more vibration and be more prone to kickbacks.

A few pictures of my setup (using an Aluminium ladder). Mounted via brackets on the end of the log. Very easy and quick setup, and easy to line up with log centre.

Note that you can slide in the bracket after placing the ladder on the log. Also: no modification/holes need to be made to the ladder.

Sounds similar. Will try slower next time but not forcing and felt good but clearly something wasn't right.

 

Sharpening wise I am using a guide like in the picture but at 10 degrees not 30. Presume the hook angle is the same as a crosscutting chain?

Hook angle (side plate angle) should actually be a little lower (sharper) on a milling chain than on a cross-cut chain. One way to achieve this, is to use a file holder for a smaller diameter file. E.g. when using a 5.5 mm file to sharpen a 3/8" ripping chain, you can use a 4 mm file holder. Alternatively, you can put a shim under the file at each end to lift it up a little.

To achieve this, you probably need to use a STIHL file holder, which allows a bigger file to be fitted, which the Oregon file holder (with the spring clips does not)

By lifting up a 5.5 mm file by 0.5 mm, you change the hook angle (top-plate cutting angle) from the standard 60° to 45°. This makes the chain cut faster, and with less effort, but also makes the cutters more vulnerable.

One of the main reasons for using a more acute angle is that as you change the top plate angle from 30° to 10° (typical for milling), you actually increase the angle with respect to the wood. An analogy is when using a plane, you get a more acute angle by rotating the plane by about 30°, making it easier to plane.

Above information was obtained from the chainsaw milling "bible" Chainsaw Lumber Making by Will Maloff, originally published in 1982, but recently reprinted: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chainsaw-Lumbermaking-Will-Malloff/dp/1626548447/

Excerpt:

(typo's from the first edition book corrected).

I would recommend using Google 2-step Verification for your account: https://www.google.com/landing/2step/

It means that every time you log in to your account from a new computer, you have to prove that it's you doing the login, by providing an additional factor such as:

- SMS verification code

- Google app confirmation prompt on a smartphone

- Authenticator app (from google) on a smartphone, entering a 6-digit code

- USB security key

- A key code card

The idea behind two-factor authentication, as it is called in the security world, is that to gain access to a service (e.g. e-mail), you have to provide several pieces of information:

- Something you know: the password

- Something you have: e.g. a smartphone

Two-factor authentication cannot be hacked, unless someone gains access to your password AS WELL AS access to your smartphone (or classic phone using SMS).

Hope this helps

Anyone have ANY experience or feedback on the Norwood LumberPro HD36 bandsaw mill?

It is sold in Europe by Logosol, and at £7,260 + VAT, it seems like a reasonable deal.

[ame]

LumberPro HD36 with 23 hp petrol motor | LOGOSOL

Turns out the lad was just pulling it over like a big sissy bitch.

Yes, MS660s shouldn't be pulled over with a limp wrist

You guys calling me a limp wristed, sissy bitch now?

I'll try increasing the ignition gap. It's just irritating, that it takes 5 minutes at WOT (milling) to figure out if it fixes the issue

Re - the decomp, it is probably worth popping in a new one as it may be coming out too soon and causing the compression of the engine to kick - worth trying as well.

 

You will need a long reach socket to do so - I forget the size:blushing:

I am still experiencing having the pull cord handle ripped out of my hands with the same old 660. It happens consistently when milling, restarting the saw while hot (within 5 minutes of having milled).

It kicks back like a motherf..... – really hurts.

Even when pressing in the decompression valve (which pops back out when it kicks back). The best way to start it is to gently pull the cord, without pressing the decomp valve, until you feel compression, and then give the pull cord a short sharp pull with BOTH hands, while the saw is on the ground held down with my knee (saw mounted on the Alaskan mill). But even with this technique, it still pulls the handle out of my hand every other time. I really don't like this situation. Time for a new saw, maybe (STIHL 880, Husky 3120)?

Any new advice fixing this problem once and for all, beyond the advice already mentioned by Garden Kit, adjusting the ignition gap?

I just finished milling an old Walnut for a customer. I got paid, and gets to keep 1/3 of the resulting slabs. No decay, and no shake.

Milled using 30" and 42" bar on a "Chilaskan" mill with the Quick Release height adjustment kit. It is so much quicker to adjust the slab thickness that way. Also has a winch kit attached, which really saves a lot of effort, and a more pleasant (upright) working position.

The knots that couldn't be milled was given to a local tree-turner, see some of his work here: Træskåle fra Eghjortens værksted på Hundested havn

We are still running one of the very first, alongside another a few years old both have been great and a huge improvement over the 660.

Could you elaborate a little on what constitutes the huge improvements over the 660?

Looking through posts in this forum, it doesn't seem like Greenmech is following the threads. Most posts asking for help are left unanswered. That is not a great way to shoe that you care about your (potential) customers. Either be active in the forum, or pull out gracefully.

I am transporting my Greenmech CA100 chipper on a trailer between jobs. Currently, I tie the chipper down on its wheels using ratchet straps. But due to the softness of the wheels, the chipper moves a little, and it doesn't feel solidly tied down. I have also added a set of front wheels to ease transportation and getting the chipper onto the trailer via a set of ramps, which doesn't add any stability.

And now to my question: when replacing the knives (removing the drum) the CS100 is tilted down to rest on the infeed chute. Is it ok to also tilt the chipper onto the infeed chute during transportation (up to a few hours)? It would make it easier to tie down the chipper, making certain that it does not move about

on the trailer. The manual does not stipulate any restrictions, but the question is really how happy the engine is being tilted 30 degrees.

Any feedback is appreciated

When you cut the tree down I need a large piece of walnut for a bowl I need to make! I need the blank to be about 2ft x 2ft x 3-4inches deep. Would this be at all possible?

 

If anybody else knows of a place where I can get walnut in this size please let me know, seasoned or green!

Are you aware that the walnut tree is located in Denmark?

Slightly more than the best offer you get?

You mean slightly LESS than the best offer, right – otherwise I wouldn't sell any

I need a "sticker price" to generate interest, and take it from there. It does not really work with an auction setup for me, and I don't want to deal with hundreds of unrealistic "I'll pay a tenner per slab" offers.

I am considering pricing prime quality at around £30 per cu. ft. but would like to have opinions on value from arbtalkers with experience on the subject.

Bump.

Any opinions on the value of the freshly milled slabs?

Yep mill it with a chainsaw, cover it in chain oil, good plan [emoji30]

Eh?

it is a lot easier to undo than an alpine or a bowline on a bight, and a proper truckers hitch is a nightmare on sythnetic rope, it was designed around the old hemp ropes

A Bowline on a Bight (and a plain Bowline, for that matter) can be easily undone, if you insert a small piece of wood/handle as indicated in the attached photo.

Full length boards would be heavy, but it's possible. We've done oak of similar size and you can carry it with four people, drag it with two, particularly if you put it on wheels. A couple of wheels on a short axle and enough blocks to rest the plank clear of the wheels is all it takes.

 

Is it possible to mill the lot, slide it to one side and then go back with some people to shift it, rather than having them hanging around for the day?

 

Alec

Yes, that sounds like the best plan. Two man operation while milling. Possibly using winches for moving the slabs away. Might get an ATV in for moving the slabs to the (temporary) storage position.

You in Copenhagen Morten?

 

There MUST be a cracking little bar somewhere in that fine city that would like a new bar top??

 

Beer for a life time!!

 

Yup, a few miles from the centre of Copenhagen. Lifetime supply of free beer sounds distinctly unhealthy. But an interesting proposition nonetheless! :beerglass: :beerglass: :beerglass: :beerglass:

mill it at the full 4m length as this will give more uses for the final article.

 

one that size should be possibly milled by bandsaw as chains are going to waste alot of potentially good walnut.

 

get any branches to a woodturner.

No room for getting access with bandmill or forwarder, so CSM is my only option. Getting a crane in will be too costly, I think.

My only problem milling full length is handling the slabs that would approach 300 kg. May consider 2.5 m and 1.5 m lengths to be able to satisfy different needs.

Any idea about what I should be asking for freshly milled slabs (provided no rot or shake and 80 cm+ dark heartwood)?

I already have woodturners queueing up

The tree will be felled Monday so photos to follow!

Are the photos coming? Would really like to see the quality of the stem