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Posts posted by woodmad
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What sort of mill?
I use water for the woodmizer, they used to do an additive, not sure if they still do.
For some larch, particularly wide boards i have the water on full blast to keep the blade from gumming up
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£12-15per cubic ft + vat depending on what dimensions are required plus delivery from up north!
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As above, you will need ACP pressure assit for brash ideally.
If you want to crane feed and keep on linkage then the only option is the 5-400, but the 8050 is a bit under powered for it.
The 6-300 is fine for hand feeding, with your horsepower and ok on the linkage, and tbh will cope with brash that's going in by hand.
I ran 5-400 on 8950 with roof mounted kesla, brilliant set up if you need to be linkage mounted, beyond that it's axles and bigger infeed.
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I wouldn't discount heizohacks, there are many reasons for poor chip quality, and the same reasons will apply to any chipper.
The chip quality is directly related to the quality of wood being chipped. Species, moisture content and size of timber will affect it.
Blade sharpness and set up will affect it. The sieve determines the size of chip, which most other makes don't have, certainly in the hp range you are looking at.
Heizohacks are good chippers IMO and the lack of secondhand machines must mean something!
Sent from my iPad using Arbtalk
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They are also different weights, as in axle capacity, a U1200,U1300 are 7.5t, 1600 is about 10t I think but you get the idea.. the reason a 1600 is best for tree work is a combination of size, horsepower and the amount it can carry without overloading, you can carry the same on a 1200 but is easy to overload..if this makes sense !
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I haven't personally used a UGN (300/400/500) but know people who do.. firstly the 300 isn't used much as the 400 is better, but the U20, which was a U300 chassis was ok as the Canter cab helped..
The 500 is too big so the 400 is the machine of choice. With Central tyre inflation, auto box and 24" V treads its a formidable truck, but at a price !
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I did that once to a mate, when he came home he was desperate for the loo, needless to say he wasn't impressed but it was funny !
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Dave
I have paid between £2 and £5/hp for Cumbrian oak, and it was done per stick, so you could take an average to save the hassle, depends how many sticks !
Stan
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I am new to all this FB stuff as well but have just set up 2 pages for my business.. go on your own profile settings and 'create page' ..better still get someone you know who is FB savey to be a 'manager' and they can do it for you..
And never miss a plug
https://www.facebook.com/woodshedkendal?ref=hl
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Woodmad/764805250200148?ref=hl
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Plea of the storm damaged tree - save me from the firewood axe..
This is the title of a half page advert I placed in our local paper after a storm up here in the lakes in 2005..i saw so many windblown trees being cut up for firewood I wanted to do something about it..
One guy had a load of Western Red Cedars go over, another contractor priced to burn the lot, we looked at it and tidied it up and milled it..he didn't know what he was going to do with it at the time..now theres a lovely shed made from the trees exactly where they stood..
The council had a load of Poplars go that we made into car park fencing, still there today !
So if these winds do cause some windblow think sideways as it can always be used for something more than firewood..
And if you need any help making it into something give us a shout
Giant Octopus from a condemned Turkey Oak..Chances Park
The Log Truck..http://http://www.woodmad.co.uk/index.php?option=com_zoo&task=item&item_id=8&category_id=1&Itemid=24
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Would Left hand drive be ok ?
I have access to these pick-ups through contacts in Europe..
PM me
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The old duckers were direct, the later ones are reverse drive, so the chute doesn't obstruct the view, also means they can be mounted front or rear as you can by pass the reverse box, this was done on the U20 at Alex's and a mod made to the DIN mount so it can go on the rear linkage as well.. I have one for sale it's a HF 200 front mount, the perfect size for the 1200 , and can be modded to go on the rear if needs be..
Cheaper than schleising, a bit lighter built tho but no electrics, a good all round chipper IMO
Stan
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I have 2 very heavy duty tarps for sale, dark green plasticised(?)
30'x20' unused £ 250
30'x20' used £ 100
Both with eyelets around edge
They weigh about 50kg each !
I can put on a pallet and send if required..
Pm me if interested
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I ran a Valtra 8950 with roof mounted Foresteri and 3pt linkage pto Heizohack 5-400(16")..
My thoughts;
Good visibilty with roof mounted crane but..
Jake frame mounted cranes much more stable and you can get support legs
Would recomend Kronos crane(I now work for AC Price and the difference in usablity is considerable)
Versatlity- could forward when not chipping
wheel weights, front weights and ballasted tyres help stability
We crane fed a TP250 first then went to heizhack, disc chippers suffer when blades are blunt whereas heizo will still chip
We went 3pt linkage due to access on jobs(railway)- trailer type heizo can handle bigger stuff but restricts off raod capablity
Stan
Have used and abused various set ups and you get what you pay for in terms of crane quality/speed, crane controls, chipper build (crane bashing survivability) and blade usage..
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Duckers 250 is a 10"
As regards miss match it depends on what you are trying to achieve.
A 12" chipper will fill a chip box pretty quickly. So its a compromise or a decision on prorities as to whether an 8" will chip enough for you and leave you timber or you chip it all and tip regularly..
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The newer duckers- ie the 200 + 250 have a reverse box, double flywheel and different blade set up to the older ones.
I have had a 250 on the front of a 1600 with no problems chipping over the cab. In fact it was an awesome chipper.
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The irony is that the U900 stevie has now was my first mog... and when i got it it had a front loader and backhoe very similar to this..
To do 50mph with that on the front was a little 'interesting'
I will have to find some photos..
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If your vehicle is overwieght you are braking the law-simple.
No if/buts. The vehilce is plated for a reason, and the brakes etc built for that weight.
If you dont mind braking the law thats fine,its like speeding, do it at your own risk, just dont moan about it if you get caught.
If you have an accident you will most likely be uninsured. Believe me i got done for being overweight in a hire van, nothing to do with work.I was a ton over and got a £1000 fine (12 years ago). I broke the law and paid the price.
Dont go on about being some super ace arb company who is fully insured and not a cowboy and does all the risk assessments blah blah blah and then is quite prepared to drive down the road overwieght and braking law..
PS this isnt directed at anyone, its just very amusing
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I have an LT 70 for sale-the difference between this and the 40 is the slightly bigger throat, slightly bigger blade, better blade guide rollers and auto clutch.
It has full hydrualic log handling and debarker,its on arbtrader,or PM me for more info.
Stan
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I watched Inglorious in a squat in Germany, they had a film night, a very sureal experience which added to the tarantenoness !
If you like subtitles try 'Troll Hunter'
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Whats the payload of the truck ?
And a rough budget...
email me if you prefer..
Chris i darent show stevie that turtle book..
But what you want would work on any mog- i even thought of it on the U20 but dont think Alex will let me..
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Our guys have got unit 2 and 4 of us have unit 10(supervisor) for streetworks. By law you have to have someone on site who is deemed competent to put out the signs, cones, lights etc and to maintain them for the duration of operations. We defer to traffic lights over stop/go as more people obey a red light, (though by no means all of them.)
Until the road traffic act changed in 1991 if a vehicle ran into a set of road works, even if controlled by lights, the blame was on the contractor in the road. Following the revision of 1991 qualified persons are allowed to manage traffic flow and block the road for up to 2 minutes at a time, as mentioned earlier.
Usually the contractor has to get clearance from their local NRSWA, New Roads and Street Works Agency. The road space has to be booked in advance. If space is not booked or there is no-one on site with their streetworks card or if the signage is deemed inadequate a NRSWA officer can and will kick you off the road.
There are obvious safety implications with not having the right training, certification and equipment. The reason for booking road space is so NRSWA can manage traffic flow and keep the emergency services informed. Also it may be that someone turns up to carry out some tree work and the road is being dug up by the gas people just around the corner.
A set of lights should only cost about £125+vat for a day. With LUX it's the same charge for a week as a day. Hiring the correct signage can be pricey and when you use lights you are supposed to carry a set of stop/go boards incase the lights fail.
You can buy a Stopworks lollipop that is similar to the one used for school crossings. This piece of equipment allows you to stop traffic for up to 2 minutes without the need for signage. Say for getting a vehicle on or off site.
That is bang on.
We did that much TM work i bought my own ligts, we then got all the tree work that involved TM as we had the kit.
We used the 'Robo' stop go boards but people just ignored them as no one was standing by the board, made it very dangerous.
A man in the middle of the road with a sign has more precence but it can be dangerous.
TM permits are free, road closures incure a small cost as they have to advertise it in the paper.
We have had inpsections on site and been threatened for having 1 sign missing.
We have also turned up on site with our permit to find there was someone else in our location with lights already out and no permit, thats why you have to get one..
TM can be a nightmare, but if done right can be a huge benefit. Some TM companies are just plain thieves.
Bandsaw Milling Lubrication advice
in Milling Forum
Posted
I then just use a stiff hand brush to clean the wet sawdust off