countryboypa31

ive done this a few times at work and the way i found best was when you instal the access line when about 3-4mts goes through the anchor hold the line and do a alpine b-fly and clip in a pulley and krab, then put your climbing line through and pull the rest of the access line up till you are at the point you want the anchor (normally the top) then tie on your hitch and pull it up to roughly where you want it to be then srt to it connect and disconnect from srt rig. you can then do the work you need to do head back to the srt rig recconnect and do the rest of the ascent or head to ur next part of the tree when u get to the top remove the climbing line and advance or easily just work off it and then retrieve all at the end.

 

i dont like to compromise the entire line so by placing the pulley at the top you can still be rescued and the whole line can still be used.

 

ive done it a few times to save a lot of aggro and isnt to hard at all and works well.

 

hope it helps.

Ive tried a lot of DRT off SRT, this is the best in my opinion. Keeps the clutter at your harness down, and allows for quick accent. Also its not very gear intensive.

Looks good just think that they pulley's should be larger. It would allow for the rope to run smoother through it. Let us know if anyone tries it.

Could you post a link?

I've tried HRC, Beeline, and now i'm stuck on Bailout. All heat resistant and all 8mm. I like bailout cause its a little more grabby, but its stiffer than the other two so it also releases nice.

Tried this system today. Works great for me. Really liked it. I footlocked the SRT line with someone tailing for me, then went out the first limb finished it swung back to the SRT and started footlocking up to the next limbs.

Very smooth and not gear intensive, thats my fav part. With someone tailing your line you really don't need another backup on your srt line, and you don't have to work back to your gear left on the line either cause if you slip your DRT is going to catch you, as long as someone is tailing your rope.

Don't want to be thick mate, but why do you need two?

 

Is it safe just having a spring gate?

They make a locking version i would always use that for any application beyond maybe putting on your leg strap to direct the tail of your rope away from your saw. Any other application i would use the locking. Much safer.

Glide saddle (want the Tree Austria)

60m of Tachyon spliced end and hitchclimber

friction hitch is the XT (variation of the vt) with HRC Knotted not spliced (so it can be fine tuned)

Landyard is 3m Blaze with a Martin

Sounds like you already thought all that through, good for you! Its one of those things i feel like always should be mentioned not just for your sake but to rise caution for anyone else who reads this and is going to try it.

I love all the new techniques and such but wanna make sure that everyone knows the dangers that are present.

Another concern about ascending the srt line in a rescue situation is your already apply 2x the force on the top crotch. To send another climber up on the srt line would put more weight then i would think to be safe.

I have to ask, are you guys saying from the moment you leave the truck or from your shot with the throwball? I do a walk around with every tree, and plan my route before i even start setting up. So if you include all that prob about 10-15 min. If time starts when i try to set a line then less than 5.

Good post

Anyone having working pictures of these saddles? I would like to see them.

Anyone have any reviews on the Tree Austria 3 compared to the Austria 2? What is the intent of the two D rings above the bridge on the Austria 2?

Do you think its better than the Butterfly?

Lots of questions.

Derrick

I'm wondering what US dealers sell the Tree Austria saddle? I'm looking at both the Tree Austria 2 and 3 but can't either in any online catalogs.

I want a good comfortable saddle that will last more than 2 years and is reasonably priced. I know most would say the butterfly but ive hung in that a few times and it was never comfortable for me.

I'm willing to listen to other saddle recommendations. It needs to be reasonable in price, has to have a floating bridge system, needs to be proven durable, prefer a saddle where i can attach the landyard up front off my hips more like a split climbing system (if you follow what i'm saying, the treemotion and ergovation both have this in their systems.) Also i have to be able to purchase in the US or have it sent to the US.

Thanks

The VT in the pic has a half hitch after the last braid similar to a knute it makes it a little smoother and consistent.

symetrical biners are good for lanyards as they are narrower and don't dig into your side, plus less chance of side loading. At the end of the day any compact biner is o.k.

Marc, if you have the chance could you get a close up of that VT variation. Sounds very interesting. I use a Knut for my lanyard and a VT form my climbing line, I like the knut better but it seems to wear the cord faster so i switched.

good looking variation, hope to give it a try.

That looks like a VT with a slight modification. How did you tie it? Very nice set up, i was going to do something like this myself

Anyone else oldschool enough to use a waggon/carters hitch to tension a pull rope on a tree being felled.

I'm not familuar with this knot, Can anyone give me a link on how to tie it? Thanks a million

I'm not familuar with the mag, but one thing i always look forward to reading is when they highlight a company or a paticular job. Everyone likes to get noticed, and it fun to see the equipment others are using as well as different tech.

I remember reading about a particularly hard removal, exactly how they did it, and how much it payed... Enjoyed ever bit of that article.

burning your brush on site, is this common?

Here we charge anywhere from $800-1200 a day.

so close to 550-820 a day

Depends on the equipment used.

My friend and his wife were looking at mastiffs, i think they settled on a boxer instead. Looking forward to your picture roller, they are great dogs.

My wife and i really want a dog but i keep saying we need a house first. Hopefully soon.

What are good breeds to take to work, or for working with? noticed border terriers are popular, any bigger dogs people would suggest are good on the job site?

If thats becomes a common practise some of the uncertified, fly by night, hacks will be able to advertise as proffesionals in that catigory. It kinda looks like a poorly advanced topping technique. How many times have you driven by a homeowner out on a ladder halfway through a removal where the tree looks something like those.

Yeah not a fan, maybe close minded but i would need some hard and extensive facts to make me think otherwise.

I agree, i can't find this practical or good. One it makes tree's look awful, you really want your trees look storm damaged??? Don't make sense, two i agree with above it seems like the tree would have such a hard time healing. What are the long term affects? Is this common, i still don't understand the appeal or advantage in anyway.

Call me close minded but you'll never find me participating in this practice.

http://www.arborecology.co.uk/resour...alfracture.PDF

 

Have you checked out the link?

Its pretty much all in there.

Link won't open for me. Anyone else having this problem? I want to read more about this, how did you get to this link?

Sounds good, sure it will all turn out great.

Glad to see the site back up and running, and def a necessary change.

Ok...that's the technique the young-buck at work showed me. He tied off one end of his crotched line then used an ascender and footlocked up the other side.

 

Thanx for the clarification.

 

I'd like to try it, but I would rather not have to tie off my line.

You can always just put a running bowline on your line and run that up to the TIP, this way you can untie it yourself with out having to rely on a groundy to untie it for you. Or just take another line up with you and leave the access line in.

I personally footlock about 99% of the trees i prune. Love it, i use the kong double ascender. Works like magic.