ecolojim

for girton, you're closer to newark and lincoln than gainsborough. Im 10 miles the other side of gainsborough so its a bit far for me to be tramping the scorpion in the middle of harvest im afraid...

try these as contacts, then just take the time to show up on lift day with a bit of cash for them. im sure someone would oblige

Farmers near Collingham, Newark  » Yell.com

besides, the vehicle would have to be re-registered taxation class agricultural also, it's not just a case of insurance

Milners do a new cyl head bare £230 or built up £430, I'd be looking first if not the gasket, at the egr cooler on the drivers side of the engine. They can corrode through and pressurize the coolant with exhaust gases and appear like gasket trouble... In that case I would just remove the egr setup... All assuming k74 variant

If you tried to fire a Lee Enfield untill the Barrel Glowed,it would

 

1 Be impossible to see the sights from the Heat Mirage from the Barrel

 

2 Be impossible to Hold because the Barrel would have heated up the Wood to the point of the oil coming out of the Stock burning your hands.

 

3 Self Loading Rifles have been used in Deer Recovery since day one.L1A1's,G3's,BAR's etc have been common since the 1950's.I venture your friend is pulling your Leg.

 

Ask him to show you the Photos of his exploits.

you shoulda seen the one that got away Mike!

Think ifor govern the price Jon. Everyone I spoke to when I bought my canopy was exactly the same price to the penny

Welcome to the club! I've a line of dots across my kneecap where I cut and let fly a branch with too much gusto and my hand and saw came down and the teeth poked straight through my saw trousers reminds ya to keep mindful though

Bandit

Wasn't entirely convinced by the last Vermeer I used. Granted it was in a questionable state of maintenance, however my old bandit continues to go like a dream in it's second decade of work, and it's only got one roller yet it still hauls ass. Bomb proof IMO, and let's face it, reliability and ease of repair is ever more important

Gotta love the yanks!!!

It would be a right p1sser if you left a can of coke on the dashboard......

We've those at some plants in the UK too. Couldnt tell you where, but the father of one of the lasses who keeps horses at our farm drives for a biomass haulier and uses them regularly he says.

first photo from 1880 edition, 2nd and 3rd from 1837

must be something they dropped in later editions. cant find a date on mine this far

this one doesnt seem to have the diagrams of the end of a log, or the taper in a log etc. seems to be tables only? im guessing in the couple or so hundred years it's been in print there are different versions

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwHEAhelTlM]YouTube - ‪Wheelhorse log splitting‬‏[/ame]

steady away on the mounted version. truck powered one is a bit padded cell for me

My old man had eluded to the existence of this historic tome, but thought it was long gone. It turned up

once again, the discussion dragged into farce. falling wood, dead or otherwise is as likely to drop on you from adjacent trees as the one you are felling. That's a known unknown, and nothing you can do about it.

From a felling point of view, the diameter at the base IMO IS more important than its height, because the chances of using more technical cuts which require a deal more skill and accuracy is higher so i agree with Charlie

most of my insurances are with NFU as are all my old man's for the farm. They dont seem competative in the tree game, though my policy quote including knapsack spraying was surprisingly good when spraying can attract a hefty premium and rightly so. Think they tried to impose a 20ft climbing limit on mine at one point!

but err the chain shouldnt be going round with the brake on anyway

Hi guys

Anyone dealt with any company for one-off PL insurance for a trade stand?

Thanks

Well after the help an guidance I got from here, this is the finished product o my first milling session

Timber's semi green oak so I'm looking forward to seeing how it moves and changes.

Whether or not they use this as an 'excuse' for retalliation, It seems to me that Bin Laden just isn't that indispensable to Al Quaeda. Their centre of power moved away from where he was seemingly some time ago. Perhaps it did create them a martyr, but he was responsible for atrocities and has paid for it with his life. The message I'm sure America wants to be sending is that no matter where you hide, you will be found, in the hope that others will heed the warning

Thanks guys, so am I understanding that I can oil it and then if I wanted to wax it, the option is still open to me as the oil has acted as a sealer already?

I see I can get Danish oil from screwfix for convenience so I'm going to try that first anyway. Sounds like it's going to give a more natural finish

Thanks, his work is very impressive indeed!

Change of plans re legs etc means I can make it all in oak after all.

How is best to finish oak? Any recommendations on waxes etc. Needs to stay quite light to match other woodwork but not at the expense of some depth to the grain if possible

Jim

Thought id best start a seperate topic for this one.

Im going to be looking for a real rich yet not too OTT finish on this oak. something to really bring out the grain. Im told waxes are the way to go? any suggestions gratefully received.

Now, Im struggling for pieces of good, stable oak to complete the rest of the table's legs, frame etc and as such will probably have to use a dissimilar wood, even in the short term before making an oak frame and dropping the top onto it in the future...

What methods do I have at my disposal to make dissimilar woods, more similar in appearance. Will the wax go some way toward this? perhaps a wood stain? Ive been watching 'the salvager' on quest and he does a lot with dissimilar timbers and applies a watered down stain with a spray gun and cloth and regardless of what you think of his work, it seems to have the desired effect

thanks again

Jim

Is it the edges or the top surfaces you want flat? If it is the two meeting edges (which i think it is) that you require straightening then its a surface planer you need, not a thicknesser. It should only take 1/4 hour or so to do this. When you have jointed the timber you can then finish the surface.

If you use a hand or electric hand plane then you can fill any remaining gaps with a mixture of glue and sawdust made from the timber itself from sanding it. You can get away with using Woodglue (PVA) but there are also proprietry glues available for this purpose. When dry and sanded you it is almost imperceptable.

yeah it's the meeting edges mate. I should have been clearer, I was only meaning if i got the chaps there to do it, the temptation would have been to get them to finish the top for me as well. Id milled to 1 1/4 inch in order to give me some leeway.

Yeah since im off work until wednesday Ive got some time to put into it, and the planing with the electric seems to be working quite well now. Im down to probably half a mm gap in a couple of places and most of it flush now. It's far from the best piece of timber Im using, and kinda experimental, so the old glue and sawdust regime may be the answer. Going for rustic, not italian dining table anyhoo!

Youll wreck it using electric planer ,, there only any use for rough timber removal ,,

I will? It's brand new and seems to be doing a pretty flawless job so far. Will get the hand one out in a bit when I find it. New workshop, no storage, stuff everywhere!

then again, surely a surface planer is electric?

thanks very much for the help so far guys! it's much appreciated!

Take them to a joinery shop, offer them a small fee and get them to put them on the surface planer. Buy a biscuit jointer for about £35 and some biscuis, job done to perfection.

Thats not sounding like such a terrible idea if i could find somewhere suitable...

I could take the two pieces to work, get them to put them through the planer thicknesser as well but tbh im quite liking the slight uneven surface. it works with the style im trying to achieve.

Am off work until tuesday, so for the time being I shall continue with the electric planer taking a tiny bit of at a time. Never really had much faith in it as a tool up to press, but it's certainly getting me ever closer with each pass. only taking .025mm off at a time

Oh gurus of timber

Im a bit new to the art of making my milled timber into pretty things, but Ive found some nice boards out of some oak ive milled, and want to make two of them into a top for a coffee table for my missus' birthday on friday. The two boards are as i want them now except for biscuit jointing them together.

What im really having issues with is getting them cut perfectly straight so that they will marry without a gap. Ive tried on my table saw, close but no cigar, and likewise with a skilsaw along a straight edge.

If theres a trick to it please tell me! theres only so many more times i can tke a blade width off the board without chopping it in for firewood!

A very frustrated Jim

haha couldnt help yourself I see

Sorry Tom,

Justin's got them advertised on his shop for 429inc Vat

You're gonna have to reflect the fact it's not new in the price.

Hard thing to do, but as we always say, it may not be making you any money at the moment, Its DEFINITELY not going to if you sell it.

Concentrate on your firewood perhaps? If you get even half that huge log pile you had on your webpage sold, you'll be well away!

good luck with the sale. chin up