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Posts posted by BoogieWithStu
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They might be worth trying but with the history of the ones that I ran and friends who have had them I won't touch one!!!
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Any saw that will pull 3/8's I would run 3/8's.
Now if you have a chitload of .325 to use up then run the .325!!!
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I know this may be hard since you are new but one thing that is very important in working a tree is tying in as high as you can!!!
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Wouldn't that be completely dependant/subjective to the individual users frame?
My guess is that you are dead on..........but..........just trying to get a general consensus of what others are using!
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I need a favor..........what is the bridge length on your Treemotion saddle between the lower D's when the bridge is pulled tight (not counting the termination knots)?
Mine is currently 15"...........I think I need to lengthen it a little!!!
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I don't know if you supposed to change the shackles with every new bridge, but it might not be a bad idea anyway.
If you don't need to change the bridge the locktight will undo, but shouldn't allow the bolts to vibrate out with use. Be carefull I think there are different strengths of locktight some don't come free after setting unless youve got a blow torch and a big hammer!
I've used the Red Loctite with minimal problems!
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I find the best way is body thrust as normal but take 3-4 long pulls before tending the slack whilst holding your weight with one hand and pulling it through the slack tending pulley with the other..thats why its essential to use a pulley with this set up,believe me after a while its just as quick if not quicker as you can take bigger pulls........its all getting used to.
watch some of steves vids on u tube or some compatition climbing vids on tree worker (i think theres some?)
If you apply a way to extend your hitch out ( there are a number of ways of doing this) then you can pull hand over hand beneath your hitch and the slack is tended automatically!!!
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No different than any other hitch/rope setup (as far as my experience). The VT itself needs to monitored more just because of the nature of the hitch sometimes not auto-setting!!!
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Howabout a pic..........as I have no clue what this "shunt" is!!!
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This is an ongoing process. If you purchase new and different equipment there is a little anxiety before you get full trust back!!!
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I use a small keyring type krab as you can see in my pics.
How are you finding having the prussic so short/close? i left it long enough to maintain a bit of space between the different sides of the rope
No............I like everything as tight as possible. I don't like a lot of play is this.
I am trying to figure out a way to make changing TIP's a little easier!!!
Any ideas???
Where is that pic of your setup???
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At one time the 200's were coming from the factory very lean...............some set at 15'5000 to 16'000 RPM. Not good for longevity!!!
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I did some work in a small ,maple today. Perfect tree for a slow and low climb trying something new. With setup in the pic below it worked pretty good. You have to adapt to the changes that come with it but by and large it seems worth a shot now. I want to get a smaller clip for the prussic cord to clean things up a bit and try to figure a way that the whole thing doesn't get twitsted in the bridge ring...............suggestions???
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Very Interesting setup Stu. Is it safe to have a sharp pressure point that is created with the splice of the xtc?
Very cool none the less.
There has been some talk about that...............time will tell!!!
Anyone know of a super small clip for this???
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I gave the HC extension another try today. Seems to me that a small prussic cord is the way to. The Ropeman is too much of a pain!!!
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I am currently using the Knut hitch. With 4 wraps it grabs on any rope I climb on. To constantly changs a hitch as per the rope and its wear may be more of a PIA than it is worth!!!
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Other than the HC extension posted about 5 weeks ago.............I know of nothing!!!
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So what does this translate into U.S. dollars???
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What are your thoughts and do you like it???
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other than that i dont understand why you cant move the saw absolutely anywhere.
Not a problem moving the saw for the work.............just a little cluttered and a little harder to hook and unhook than when I had the B'Fly II!!!
Husqvarna 338XPT - any good?
in Chainsaws
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Don't know what could be offered. Not many seem to run a modded 200. I know that EHP (Ed Heard) modded several 200's. He told me the main problem was too much heat. Apparently they mod fairly well.
I like modded saws..............don't know if a modded 200 would be necessary, a muffler modded 200 is a tough saw to top!!!