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Milling Novice, tips & tools???


jnoon
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Ditto the above.

 

All about chain sharpness is milling - if it's steady and progressive you've got it right. If you're thinking 'it's taking a looooong' time then the chain is dull.

 

Try not to mill everything that moves to start with - be selective.

 

Take time to sticker and neatly stack your timber to dry.

 

Have some fun making things green with not so good pieces - good practice and sellable.

 

Rest the saw down the log and let it idle for 2 mins after finishing a plank.

 

Register on Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories - e-mail me at [email protected] to say you've done this and I can do the discount.

 

 

 

 

 

:biggrin:

 

 

 

:biggrin:

 

 

 

love the sound of this:001_smile: thanks for your help lads i cant wait to get my big saw and mill as noone i know mills around here, ive got oak beams to mill for someone and i want to make furniture :thumbup1:

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  • 3 weeks later...

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I am milling quite a bit, using an MS 660.

 

I have an Alaskan Mill, and a Mini Mill that I use for edging/squaring, and also to produce the first flat surface for the Alaskan Mill. I've found that to work very well.

 

In any case you'll probably need to a rail for the first cut (required if you don't use the Mini Mill). An aluminium ladder is well suited for that purpose. You can either drill holes through the steps for screws, or make an attachment that holds on to the ladder and is fixed to the end-grain of the log with screws (I find that easier - I may be able to dig out some pictures).

 

For the best (and fastest) milling results, you need special "ripping" chains, typically filed at an angle of 0-10 degrees, as opposed to 20-30 degrees for cross grain cutting.

 

Read through the milling forum (and the Alaskan sub forum) for more info.

 

 

if you could dig out some pics that would be great :thumbup:

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