Ripping chains?

[FoxwoodProject]

Sincere apologies if this has been asked before. My net is janky and so is my life. Im running a 20 inch bar through oak...its defo disease dead (beetles or something else as parts are way lighter than live  oak should be.) BUt! Its a big old tree and i want to plank what I can from the trunk. Ive no mill so I know i will be spending a lot of time with the planers etc. But Its hard and slow going ripping through, and i just wondered, if anyone has had better luck with a diff type of chain? Im on half chisel. But like I say ive never tried to plank anything before...but this is too heavy to get out of a remote location to the saw mill. 🧐 Any advice greatfully recieved but bare in mind ive to be winching stuff out. Nobody is getting a band saw or claw grab in.

[Muddy42]

Just to be clear, the fact that your chain is full chisel or semi chisel refers is a different consideration - whether the side plate has a curved top or a sharp chisel top. Either work fine for ripping. The only difference between a 'ripping' chain and a normal 'crosscut chain is the top plate angle.  Generally crosscut is 30 degrees and ripping is shallower 5 or 10 degrees. With hand sharpening you can change the angle over time either way.

 

However I have tried ripping chain angles before and now I dont bother.  Like you I cut a lot of very hard knarly oak and I find the crosscutting chain is better and if you think about it when cutting knotty, curvy bits, you are effectively crosscutting a little too.

 

Just focus on your filing technique.  That is and always will be the key. With practice you should be able to match or even exceed the performance of a new chain.  Oak is hard, so cutting is always slower than other woods.  Don't ever force the saw or cut with a dull chain.