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  1. Hello Members. Bought a new MS 661 today - for use with an Alaskan mill and slabbing. Not for me but an experienced son. Also getting the MS 880. Collected it personally and asked for advice on mills and the options available. Well, was basically told that such a saw was not designed for such use and I would be back with issues, not normally, covered by the warranty ? Seemingly, such a saw does not like being used in this way and will be 'shaken' to death ? We will also have issues with the fuel mixture, bolts coming loose and the air filter ? It was suggested, helpfully, that we consider changing the bar for a smaller pitch and use a rip chain. Oh, and the best option for us, is to buy a Lucas Mill ! What are the thoughts of others please..... Thank you, Mark.
  2. Bought yesterday, with the 12" bar a single 200 (4AH) battery and quickest charger. Wow, what a beautiful saw! Lighter than I expected, just so nice to use. Picked it up and went straight to work, removing a sycamore from a roadside wall. Didn't bother with ear defenders, didn't need them. The saw feels extremely controllable, no gyroscopic effect except for a very slight vertical nose lift. Did the sycamore down to about fifteen feet, and topped a small cypress, still had three lights on the battery. It does demand mindfulness as the saw could potentially un-break itself on branches, so was hyper-aware of break and throttle position when picking it up. The torque, relatively slow chain speed, quietness, complete lack of vibration etc. made the working experience more "studied" - more deliberate, I would say. Easy and instant communication with groundie was a blessing. I find I'm developing a kind of pseudo-fetish for the 160t, I keep going to the shed just to pick up the saw and hold it, marvelling at the design and technology. Would recommend.
  3. We will very shortly have our new Panther Mini bars in so you can run the Stihl 3670-71PM3 1/4 .043 chain on the Husky T525, T536Li XP, MS150T, MS150, MSA160T and Echo CS-2511TES. These are all dedicated bars for the specific saws and all run 56 drive links of the Stihl chain - the idea being to simplify things so that all the 10" bars for these little saws run the same drive link count of the same chain. *NB on the Husky T536Li XP and 536Li XP you will need to change the drive sprocket from 3/8 lo pro to 1/4 https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/husqvarna-14-sprocket-for-536li/ For the Stihl bar go here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/e10-j1-42k-cv-1-10-panther-mini-echo-cs-2511tes-1-4-043-56-drive-links-expected-20th-may-2018/ For the Husky bar go here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/e10-d2-42k-cv-1-10-panther-mini-husky-525-536li-t536li-xp-1-4-043-56-drive-links-expected-20th-may-2018-copy/ For the Echo bar go here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/30050083403-stihl-rollamatic-e-mini-10-14-043-57-drive-links/ They look pretty snazzy. I've tested one for a month or two but I'm not doing the sort of hours cutting that someone full time on the tools does... we don't have them yet but you can pre order online.
  4. I've got a stihl ms181 c-be in from a customer to sharpen and thought I'd try to diagnose an ongoing nagging issue on it It starts cuts and runs fine but with any pressure put into the cut (such as using the dog) and it just stalls the chain, slipping the clutch I assume It's only a couple of years old or so and not in daily use but imo it's underspecced for his level of usage (a very large garden/small estate and doing a lot of firewood as the primary heatsource of a large 15th century house) I reckon the clunch I'd knackered, thoughts? Oh and it's on a 16 inch bar which I feel is a bit big on a 30cc saw
  5. My trusty Stihl MS 260 has a warn cylinder, I do most work on my saws myself but having never replaced a pot and piston, is there anything technical I need to know about? Is it a straight swap or do I need to set anything? cheers
  6. Hi, So I bought a Stihl MS291 about a year ago and it has been sat in my workshop and hasn't been used. I went to go and start it today and I noticed that the cord is very difficult to pull even, so far I have tried a couple of things. -Refresh Fuel and tried to start it -Taken spark plug out, but when I do this the starter cord pulls fine as it should. Any Help will be greatly appreciated.
  7. Hello to everyone, as you'll probably see, I'm new here. Just a quick query, how does the Husqvarna 435 compare to Stihl of the same 'ish price tag? I've used older Husqvarna saws, but a long time ago. Just been using Stihl chainsaws recently. It's for occasional use, no heavy logging but obviously I need it to generally cover a range of basic functions. I'm looking at a 'new in box', factory sealed example. I must admit I'm tempted to wait for a second hand Stihl, but would appreciate your thoughts. Many thanks everyone.
  8. You may have heard about Rotatech Chainsaw Chains, but want to know more before you part with the pennies? Here are just some Rotatech reviews from Amazon, Facebook, YouTube and professional journals.... Click here to read more
  9. Can anyone advise please? I recently bought an HD filter as a spare for my 880(2007)which included a foam insert. The filter that came with the saw is green and doesn't have the foam insert(just fine mesh?). I took the green filter off to clean it and noticed quite a bit of fine dust had bypassed the fine filter. No holes in it etc. I don't use the saw a great deal at all and only for milling the odd bit. I replaced the Filter the new hd2 filter(with green foam insert)for quickness but it just wasn't running right as seemed not to be getting enough air and bogging down when cutting. Spoke to a local tree surgeon who said its a problem with the Stihls? I also read somewhere to take the box off and have the filter sitting on the outside uncovered? Any idea how best to proceed or suggestions on filters would be much appreciated. I could do without a blocked/nackered carb if poss. Sorry haven't got pics but found a couple on line and just hoped someone might know what I'm on about. Thankyou.
  10. I am currently searching for a replacement brushcutter since my FS410 was stolen by the light fingered scum. I was set on another FS410 or FS460, but having read a few reviews etc I am reconsidering the Husky equivalent a 545RXT. I will be running it with a shredding knife attachment on thick scrub/brambles etc. So your views and opinions please?
  11. Break in last night to my work New Forest Garden Machinery in Totton Hampshire. Thieving scum bags peeled back the roof to gain access at 3 am this morning. We think around 10 Stihl chainsaws were stolen. all locked up but the gits were in and out in 3 minutes. We are only a small family run company and things like this really set you back. if offered anything brand new in the hampshire/dorset/wilts area ring the police please. Just sorting through CCTV and serial numbers now so will post up images soon.
  12. Evening all. Last night I came home late is to go out, parked my truck outside my hose and went out in the car. I came home this afternoon to find the truck unlocked and my Stihl MS200t missing from the back of the truck This is the second time this week. the first was just about £3.50 in loose change and a half bottle of aftershave but last night was the saw. My guess is that there using a Ford master key as i know 110% my truck was locked. Ill see if i can get the seriel number from Honey Brothers in the morning. Its a 2009 model which I bought new. The saw has 'Nick Stevenson' engraved on the air filter cover, the side plate and on the bottom of the saw. If anyone hears about it (which I highly dout) please ring me on 07961691340. Thanks Nick
  13. Just picked up the 2016 Stihl catalogue (UK), and it looks like the 261 and the 362 has had an update. I was wondering if they are coming to the uk and if they are, when will they be coming??
  14. I'm a home owner user of a Stihl kombi ( fantastic bit of kit) It's a 2008 unit bought used in 2012 I think, it's used mostly with hedge trimmer attachment, rarely with a pole pruner and once only strimmer (have a strimmer so no need really) It has been faultless, gets a good use every year cutting a mixture of stuff privet, laurel, leylandii etc. or a week of pro use a year...... I'm not sure if it has ever been serviced, certainly not since I bought it, it's run only on red Stihl oil mix 50:1 and hedge trimmer is greased regularly. Today I took the cover off the air intake and knocked the crud off, the filter was oily and under the filter was oil not lots but enough to see Is this normal or is fuel mix going back out of the carb? I do tend to invert it and tip the motor and never noticed a fuel leak (has the fiddly black and white cover to tank) Should I be worried by the red oil in the filter material and on the inside of it?
  15. Hi All This is coming from a very happy amateur, I've had my MS211 (with a 16" bar) for 4 years now and am very pleased with the machine, albeit a bit under-powered I find when cutting some heavier stuff. I wonder if someone can assist me with which parts/what needs to be done to give the machine a complete overhaul. I've listed a few things myself below (including some repairs), any assistance would be great: - Will change the oil hose (small black hose underneath as oil is seeping out from there when sitting on the shelf, seems to be a common fault with this model) - Is there an oil filter to be replaced here or just cleaned? - New spark plug - Fuel filter? Again, just a clean or replace? - Sprocket? Gone through a total of 3 chains since new (2 wore down and one I broke). There are some grooves on the sprocket. - Clean the airfilter. Anything else? Many thanks!
  16. Hi All, I may be a little off topic here as I would like to ask a question about a Stihl FS410C strimmer I have an engine problem with, I saw some of you guys are pretty knowledgeable about Stihl products and engines so I thought I would try... I have a Stihl FS410C strimmer that seems to start fine and ticks over very nicely but as soon as I squeeze the trigger to add power the engine seems to struggle and almost get choked to a point it sounds like it is going to die. I'm not very good with engines but the fact that it ticks over well leads me to think it is a minor problem but wondered if anyone had any advice. I have a video on youtube of the issue if anyone is able to advise please: https://youtu.be/gWUIy_5_64E Many Thanks for reading and any advice would be really appreciated and if you are local to London Oval can stand you a few pints or lunch if you can fix it. Cheers Alex
  17. Hi all, I'm hoping someone can maybe point me in the vague direction of potentially being able to fix a starting problem with my Stihl MS181, otherwise it's going on eBay for spares..... Basically it's a sod to start and sometimes just won't start at all. When it does start it takes 12-15 pulls and revs its tits off until you touch the throttle, when it dies. Its been fully serviced with a carb re build and ultrasonic clean. My Stihl dealer that did the work said it may need a new carb, but that seems ridiculous seeing as its only 3 years old and the cost without fitting is £100!!! i could buy another saw second hand for that, nearly. So before I resign it to the scrap heap of eBay, any ideas anybody??? Much appreciated in advance.
  18. [ame] [/ame] Had to strip down some douglas firs as part of a logging operation to minimalize damage to the surrounding trees. it was a Fun and exiting job
  19. Hi all, I've gotten to a stage where I need a fairly decent sized saw, approx 24". It will be used mainly for a few fells, chogging down and then logging firewood every so often at the yard. I'm thinking either a Husky 372 or Stihl 460/461... Can I have your wise opinions on either of these 2 or an alternative... I'm wanting half decent power, reliability and not too heavy... Ta,
  20. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbGjpRk-3OQ Watch in HD for the best experience P.S. the camera survived(for another day)
  21. hi people. whats the best reccomended chainsaw to invest in for tree felling. i dont want to pay second hand want to buy new but want to invest in something worth while and thats good to work with and durable and good for the money what would you recomend stihl or husqvarna and what models please// any help would be greatly appreciated i am new to the tree world just on my cs30/cs31 course using a stihl ms180 i know its a domestic saw but does for the course like i say any advice and reccomendations well appreciated :
  22. Hello all I've got a bit of a problem with my trusty climbing saw, (Stihl MS200T, 2008 model). It doesn't want to tick over nicely at the moment. When I first start it the idle is a bit uneven and after a while it cuts out altogether. When hot its even worse, it just dies as soon as I release the throttle. Apart from that it seems fine, it revs as good as ever and has plenty of power for cutting. I should mention that I may be responsible for this problem! A couple of weeks ago I was doing a reduction on a leylandii hedge, and using a skip to get rid of the waste. I was getting short on time and skip space so decided to mill the brash down a bit with the chainsaw. I went at it pretty hard and after only a few minutes the saw started cutting out on idle. I figure I must have overheated the poor thing as it was a stinking hot day and the exhaust was pretty stifled as I had the bar in the brash up to the hilt. The exhaust housing was smoking afterwards. I feel a bit stupid writing this now! I'm loath to take it to my local service place again as I feel that since I'm normally pretty mechanically minded this is something I should be able to sort myself. Judging by a lot of other posts I've read on here I reckon this is the best place to come for advice as of few of you blokes seem to be chainsaw Oracles! What does anyone think;- have I indeed overheated the thing and caused some damage to something? (or maybe the smoke was just resin burning off on the exhaust. He says hopefully!). Or is this just a question of re-tuning the carb? If anyone could give me a quick tutorial on the three screws that would be much appreciated, (H, L and LA). Thanks. I've always wanted to get my head around these but never plucked up the courage to fiddle with them in case I muck up a fine balance of something. Thanks in advance. Sorry about the long post!
  23. So... I ran over my "relatively" new Stihl 362C a little while ago. Managed to avoid any serious damage as it went under the car rather than the wheel and the fore-grip acted as a nice sturdy rollcage. It has however buckled this handle and I need to replace it. -Could someone point me in the direction of a good parts supplier I could get a replacement from? -Are they interchangeable with older models? -How much of a ball ache is it to swap out? Cheers.
  24. Hi. Having some issued with a couple of years old ms250 running an 18 inch bar. It seems that sometimes the nose sprocket on the bar gets jammed solid, enough that the engine sounds like the chain brake is on and you have to switch off and get the sprocket moving. When this happens the sprocket area of the bar appears to be quite hot. The saw was using half a tank of oil to a tank of gas which seems the norm. I took it back to the dealer who sprayed the oil off the bar and declared it was normal. With the bar removed you can see the oil pumping out. I thought the problem could be a lack of oil so I purchased and installed the bigger oil pump thinking this would be the answer. It now dispeces about 25% more oil but I still have the problem. I am cutting ash currently and have had problems with beech (beech was quite sappy). Tried a new chain and 16 inch bar and the same problem. I think I have the chain tension right, if anything on the loosed side rather than tight. - added a picture of a cut that resulted in one of the nose sprocket jams. Any thoughts? Thanks

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