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  1. My Cheerson CX20 Drone and Husqvarna 174 LTH Gardentractor collect leafs.. just like symphony... [ame] [/ame]
  2. Hi there, I was wondering whether people think it would be worth converting my little Husky 445e from .325 15" oregon pro am micro lite bar and chain to 3/8 lo-pro 15" sugi bar and chain, and if so where could I get the appropriate sprocket, bar and chain? J
  3. Ive got into doing a bit of climbing lately (bit of a hobby), and my trusty husqvarna 41 has finally blown up, and i dont fancy swinging the 560 around up a tree. Hence i now need top handle saw, dont want to spend more than 300+ vat, not too fussed whether 30 or 40cc as each has its advantages. Narrowed it down to Makita, tanaka, efco, solo, echo. Which make and model of these top handles is the best saw in your experience? Cheers
  4. Can't solve this. Cany anyone add any light or similar issue? Rebuilt a 365 that had been crawled over by a tracked chipper. Included new bearing seals as split crank to replace clutch side. Ok. all back together with new rear handle to boot (non OEM but it seems reasonably rugged). Fired it up but chain is turning over with every pull. It ticks over and idle and Low adjust as they should hence discounted leak around new seals yet chain is turning no matter what. Looked a little deeper thought clutch was shot thus engaging with every pull, but springs not that weak. Pulled apart clutch side, I discover clutch appears to be binding with oiler (this after looking without sprocket on). The order things are reassembled according to diagrams are (thin washer) before oiler (so this sits virtually next to bearing seal) then oiler torx screwed down, then clutch directly on top (reverse thread). But even if i sit clutch only lightly tightened on it still binds with and turns oiler. This obviously then turns sprocket and hence chain. I prob should post pictures but there are so few parts involved, I cant seem to seat clutch without it tightening on to oiler and spinning it, there's plenty of play elsewhere and am used to tightening clutch down reasonably firmly and not catching on other models? even with a thin washer inserted in there its still going to pick the oiler up. Driving me mad, am wondering if crank has been bent (even only a microscopic amount) encouraging the clutch to bind? arghh Any ideas?
  5. Can anyone add any light on the following please? Rebuilt a 365 that had been crawled over by a tracked chipper. Included new bearing seals as split crank to replace clutch side. Ok. all back together with new rear handle to boot (non OEM but it seems reasonably rugged). Fired it up but chain is turning over with every pull. It ticks over and idle and Low adjust as they should hence discounted leak around new seals yet chain is turning no matter what. Looked a little deeper thought clutch was shot thus engaging with every pull, but springs not that weak. Pulled apart clutch side, I discover clutch appears to be binding with oiler worm gear (this after looking without sprocket on). The order things are reassembled according to diagrams are thin washer (so this sits virtually next to bearing seal) then oiler torx screwed, then worm gear with metal insert which houses above thin washer below. then clutch directly on top (reverse thread). But even if i sit clutch only lightly tightened on it still binds with and turns oiler worm gear. This obviously then turns sprocket and hence chain. I prob should post pictures but there are so few parts involved, I cant seem to seat clutch without it tightening on to oiler and spinning it, there's plenty of play elsewhere and am used to tightening clutch down reasonably firmly and not catching on other models? even with a thin washer inserted in there its still going to pick the oiler up. Driving me mad, am wondering if crank has been bent (even only a microscopic amount) encouraging the clutch to bind? The way it should work is sprocket should turn oiler worm gear, however the way it currently spins, clutch is driving worm gear> worm gear is the single 'arm' black plastic type, its in good condition. can anyone maybe redefine the order they have reassembled the above?
  6. Raw footage Me driving My Max Attack lawnmower unit, "Cab View", no music or fancy cutting work just driving. [ame] [/ame]
  7. My Husqvarna LTH 174 gardentractor was sleeping in winter time almost 6 months but today is time try start it up and prepare for summer... [ame] [/ame]
  8. Towable backhoe and Husqvarna LTH 174 making work together, digging ditch and drive dirt away... [ame] [/ame]
  9. Hi all. I'm looking to to buy a either a 576xp 20"bar or 390xp 24" bar to go with my t540 (13inch) and 550 (15inch). Until recently I've deal't with all job's that I have taken on with the two saws I have. But there have been a few that I would have been more confident using a bigger more powerful saw e.g 1. finish a back cut quickly 2.have the extra bar length there instead of matching up two 15" cuts on a 30" diameter tree 3.ringing up bigger stuff. The main one is to avoid putting an 18" bar on the 550 to take down a stump and have it going flat out which I'm not keen on (which I do). The big saw will mainly be a ground saw but I anticipate taking it up the tree. Have any of you guys used either saws up a tree and how do they handle? Would the 576xp be better choice being a tad lighter or does the 390xp pack more punch for its weight?
  10. am looking to buy an xp 550, have looked on ebay and found a U.S seller £345 +£25 postage ,which seems like a deal,however after asking about bar length he replied he could only supply with a 20" bar.could i just change the bar when it arrives as i can only find sellers with 18" bars in the UK.? thanks for help
  11. Hi Everyone I'm new here so please let me know if I make any mistakes. And yes, I have an issue I'm looking for help and advise on . After frustrations with my big old McCollough saw I forked out last year and purchased a brand new Husquvarna 435 saw I’ve been very happy with it I've used it regularly (weekly) fir cutting logs for my wood burner and da little light tree pruning. I've looked after it well keeping it fuel with fresh oil mix (Stilhl oil). Recently it developed a fault it would rev up properly but then within a short time it died initially it was intermittent and could be used for a while before dying but it got worse. After checking the obvious, the filters and muffler for blockages and a new spark plug I put the saw into the local dealer where I purchased for repair under warranty. I was surprised to be told today that the work won't be done under warranty that contaminated fuel has destroyed the diaphragm and it will cost over £100 to repair. I understand that chainsaws can be abused and if so a repair under warranty can’t be expected but this isn’t the case with this saw, I have looked after it well! Before taking to the dealer I checked the fuel filter in the tank and it was intact and clean. putting to one side for the moment that I have used it regularly and always used fresh fuel ( I live beside a fuel station so only purchase as needed) I really don’t understand what sort of contamination could damage the carburettor ? as said the fuel filter was clean and intact. I really feel disappointed, (and a little unbelieving) with this result and know I have only treated this saw with care as recommended. I’m on a low budget but paid the price for a Husqvarna believing that it was a good quality saw and, with proper care, would last and be worth the price in the long run. Is it possible to get a second opinion as this diagnosis just doesn’t make sense? Sorry for being long winded Well done and thanks if you have read it all
  12. Hi Everyone I have been given a Husqvarna 2100. Loving the saw! I am looking to replace the bar with a more modern one, Could someone advice me on which bar fits? Want to put a 36inch bar on. Would a normal Oregon bar go on? Any advice would be good!
  13. This is a rather odd request... I'm after some advise from people who know what there talking about because I defiantly do not! I know its a long way off however for one of my boyfriends Christmas presents I would like to buy him a new splitting axe (seeing as the head flew off his last one, spiralling through the air luckily not into the direction of any living objects) I know he likes the Gransfor ones although I've seen a nice Husqvarna splitting axe I like better. Does anyone have any reviews or splitting axes they recommend? I would just ask him but don't want to spoilt the surprise Many thanks in advance!!
  14. I have 6 NOS Husky flywheels marked 5062186-01 & 5062186-02. Does anyone know what machine they are for please?
  15. Hi all i have just recently got a Husqvarna CD480, despite being quite an old girl she is lovely to fell with. The saw came with a 20 inch bar which is in poor condition and a chain which looked like it had been cutting the floor more than the trees. having sharpened the chain up there is not much life left on it, and rather than getting a new chain for the old bar i was thinking of getting a slightly longer bar and chain as i only use the saw for the occasional big tree when i need something bigger than my 362 on a 18. i am used to all the different bar mounts and am wondering if there is any current husqvarna which has a interchangeable bar with this saw? as that will make it easier for me to order a new bar and chain Thanks
  16. Can't help notice lots of positive user reviews for the battery powered Husqvarna T536 Li XP see the specifications here: HUSQVARNA 536 Li XP® - XP® saws ....am I mad to seriously consider this as my first ever chainsaw? We have 16 acres of mixed woodland to manage; and our woods range from scrub ~ to unmanaged coppice ~ to self seeded mini-trees ~ to medium trees ~ to big trees ~ to massive gurt trees. I'm not expecting the Husky T536 LiXP to fell anything massive, and probably nothing much medium size.... My questions are: How much work should I realistically expect this electric chainsaw to cope with?.... What's the maximum fell size? Could I get away with just buying this and a much bigger chainsaw at a later date?
  17. Hey, new to the forum looking for some advice, i brought my 365 special into a hire shop/husqvarna dealer for a new chain, without asking me he ground out the oregon bar to suit a stihl chain, i wasn't to happy about it but he said its normal he dose it all the time and he has a special disc to do it. Has anyone heard of this? is it ok? Now the engine has sized after not much use since then, He says it over heated from being worked too hard, said the clutch was black and the barrel and piston seized, and wants me to pay for the repairs. It was defiantly not being worked hard and he checked the fuel himself and said the mix was perfect. What do you think?
  18. So, looked and then got a job where a big saw is needed. Have a husqvarna 576xp with a 24" blade and to be fair it always been enough. 48" by the time you go round both sides:thumbup: Any way this time it's not gonna cut the mustard. There are half dozen dead horses chestnut trees to come down. All my ground saws are Husqvarna so I enquired about the395xp but the max bar length is only 28" wtf. The stihl equivalent is the 660 and can come with 36" bar Didn't really want the 3120 seems to be over kill for what I want. Don't get why the 395 can only be brought with a maximum 28" bar? Never used a stihl ground saw except the 260. How does the 660 fair to the big huskies.
  19. Day of felling with my new husky 560xp filmed on my gopro 3 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maZ05uykSis]Gopro 3 Tree Surgeon - A day of felling - YouTube[/ame]
  20. Hey guys, I have recently been handed down a husqvarna 141 saw. Nice little saw but I was using it yesterday and after around 30 mins of using, it decided to stop idling and cut out. I can get the saw started but as soon as I stop revving the saw cuts out. The husky does need a general service and I have just ordered a servicing kit. I have been advised that the problem could lie with the spark arrestor screen. Could this be the problem ??? Advise please I will take out a and clean the screen anyway
  21. Hey guys I have recently bought a wood burning stove to run my heating, which means I now have to keep well on top of the firewood. I need to purchase a decent saw that'll be hassle free for me. I'm looking at getting something with a 16-20" bar. I want a good all rounder !! Obvious choices would be husky or stihl. Having done a bit of research on YouTube I can't really seperate the two, only that Husky seem to go through timber about a second quicker on average and seem to be more well balanced than the stihl......ADVISE PLEASE
  22. Tried out the new husky 560xp today on a days demo from Daniel @ chippetech in Suffolk. And have to say what a saw. I run a 6month old 357xp and the new 560 kicked but. Very impressed now need to save up to get one. Real aggressive styling to match the power of the little rocket will just kill everything I threw at it. Was down at my wood shed and tried with loads of different wood. Clutch didn't kick in once!! Daniel is doing day demo on it for a while so give him a ring. Be warned you will want one!!!
  23. Hi guys Story goes.... Grew up with a husky 136 as a present from dad about 10 years ago for use on the farm and i loved it and still do. To this day it still gets me out of a scrape or two and it taught me a world of knowledge about maintainence. Now without starting the inevitable Stihl v Husky debate i know huskys and love em. Without geting too angry i had my 345 i bought 2 years ago stolen Yesterday i enjoyed maintaining it and i liked it allot i probably on average used it once a week for felling right through to cutting firewood etc My question is this WHAT SAW TO REPLACE??? the 346xp or bigger My friend who just bought a 346xpg with the silly brake thing likes the saw but i fancy some thing a bit more professional as i expect it to last me a lifetime. Having said that dont want to re-mortgage just spend money on a good saw. Hope u all understand and thanks for you time, advice ect Marcus

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