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There is quite the ordeal that has caused me to Bring this here. To get opinions from people who may have had something like this happen or any advice for us. My sister and I aren't mechanically inclined. But my dad is. My sister and I purchased a chainsaw from Timberland (a Canadian chainsaw and stuff place) for Christmas for my father. After it had been sitting for the winter (my dad had a hernia surgery and wasn't allowed to do anything) and Because of old fuel it needed a new carborator and a clean up which we paid for, they said they put Aspen in the engine. And that they don't carry any straight fuel. They carry both Aspen 2 and 4. They gave it back to him with a bottle of Aspen 2 and told him to use it and don't mix it. He's used the 50:1 mix of oil and gas for everything else like old chainsaws and Lawnmower's. He has never used Aspen before. My father is deaf. But does follow instructions. (I bring this up because he has been screwed over in the past because of him being deaf) My father is very meticulous so he had that bottle of Aspen 2 placed beside the stahl chainsaw. And when he went to use it, he refilled it with the Aspen 2 from the bottle that was given to him. They didn't test it in front of my dad when he got it back to begin with. The spark plug wasn't attached which was preventing it from starting, He noticed this and reattached it, then the engine seized. He brought it to Timberland and they said that the spark plug wasn't attached again. So the 1 guy replaced that, then it wouldn't start. So they took it in the back. Then they call me and say it seized because of there being 100% pure fuel in there. So there was no warrenty covering wrong fuel. They poured to show us the fuel in the saw, yes it was clear with a slight yellow tinge. So obviously not Aspen 2. If Aspen 2 is yellow. They poured from a 5l jug of Aspen 2 and it was a deep yellow. My dad brought me the bottle of Aspen 2 that they gave him, it is a slight yellow, not as deep a yellow as theirs. Is there another way to tell if the fuel in there maybe Aspen 4 instead of 2? That would explain if the service person put Aspen 4 in (clear) and my dad put some Aspen 2 in which is a slight yellow. Why it would look almost clear with a yellow tinge? But we seem to be getting screwed over this, they are offering a new saw at cost, but that is still 400$ more than we can all afford right now. I'm sorry for the rambling, I'm just trying to figure out what could have went wrong. I don't know how else to prove that my dad didn't put anything besides what he was given (the Aspen 2) into the saw. So any other outside opinions would be helpful.
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Ok, here's an idea for a thread - lets post vids of people doing dangerous things with chainsaws and then analyse and discuss. I'm sticking this one up as it's just come online this evening. I was horrified at certain points. I suppose most everyone on here will instantly identify the moment of maximal danger in the vid, but maybe give some of the less experienced members a chance to think about it and comment? I don't know, maybe this idea is a late night waste of time...I'd me keen to scrutinise any vids other members can find and share though, but not the obvious fails, obviously.
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Hi guys Im looking for a bit of advise regarding Chainsaw models: My Stihl MS 261 has packed in (crank shaft has gone). And I'm looking for a suitable and similar spec replacement. I have been recommended 2 different brands: An ECHO CS4510- 15" and a Husqvarna 555 2018 model. I'm also looking to get a quote for a Stihl MS 261 and MS 362. I would love opinions on these models or if you would recommend any others? I work in a forest near Brecon felling all sizes of trees for firewood and occasional pole length for Pontrilas sawmills. My budget is around £500.00 Any info would be much appreciated
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Seasoned woodsman heading back to the New Forest after six months abroad. I get back on 12th July and ideally I’m looking for forestry/groundie work within an hour of Bramshaw. I have Cs30/31/32/38/39, brushcutter and tractor experience. Not climbed for a while but competent with a chainsaw and happy to build up from groundie until I get back into the swing of things if needed. Got my own PPE, saw etc. Cheers Steve
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Hi to all.. my chainsaw starts and runs fine, but only with the exhaust and air filter removed. When I fit the exhaust, it won't run or start. The exhaust has been cleaned and is not blocked. Can anyone give me some advice. Thanks
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We are looking for individuals or gangs, for immediate ongoing work. Must have's: - Minimum of CS30,31,38,39, 40 and UA2.3 - Be available for ongoing work - Drive or be a part of a pair that drives - Experience on Deveg - Own kit - Be based/willing to travel to Wessex To show your interest please send your contact details and a covering letter/email to - [email protected]
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Hi, I have a chainsaw dilemma. I recently had a 90 year old spruce felled. Most of the branches have been cut into lengths no longer than 12 inches diameter. However the trunk, which is 20-30 feet long varies in diameter from 2ft 6" to 5ft 6" . As I am a beginner ( although verbally coached by the tree-feller at the time), I will not be able to buy a chainsaw capable of ringing the trunk, so I anticipate slowly cutting chips/slices off it which I can chop/saw to fit in my wood-burner. However, I suspect I will need a hefty saw (? around 50cc) to complete that task, despite requiring a much lesser powered saw to cut up the branches. I am unlikely to use the chainsaw after this large task. In the interests of safety, I will go with a Husqvarna but I would welcome advice on which is the cheapest of their range which will be able to carry out the full task. I am thinking, perhaps the 440, 445, or 450? My dilemma clearly is that I do not want to overspend on something which has a time limited value to me, but neither do I wish to waste money buying something that is not up to the task. I should add that tree is on a very small island so normal logistics do not apply! Advice please!
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Having successfully secured several contracts, predominately in the Midlands area, we are seeking suitably qualified and experienced individuals to enhance our workforce. Applicants will be required to work at various locations throughout the country including some Weekends. Chainsaw operatives and Climbers must hold NPTC certificates. PTS (Personal Track Safety) and full Driving Licence are desirable as works are routinely within the Rail environment. Lineside Structure Maintenance Limited are based in Nottingham and have been operating for over 20 years. We are able to offer competitive rates of pay and comprehensive Training and Development. www.lineside.co.uk Please send us your CV to [email protected] -
stolen Cheshire - Stolen kit list with serial numbers
monkeybusiness posted a topic in Stolen Equipment
Hi - a mate suffered a serious break in in South Cheshire last Tuesday night (27th March) and had the following power tools stolen - 1. STIHL MS880 48” BAR (spare 36” bar also taken) S/N 181034060 2. STIHL 084 25” BAR 3. HUSQVARNA 390XP 36” BAR 4. HUSQVARNA 390XP 28” BAR S/N 201410000080 5. HUSQVARNA 372XPG 20” BAR 6. STIHL MS441 20” BAR S/N 171534211 7. HUSQVARNA 560XPG 18” BAR S/N 2012130038 8. HUSQVARNA 560XP 18” BAR 9. HUSQVARNA 346XPG 15” BAR S/N 20114500234 10. HUSQVARNA 346XPG 15” BAR S/N 20120100240 11. HUSQVARNA 346XP 15” BAR 12. HUSQVARNA 550XP 13” BAR S/N 20161300190 13. STIHL 026 15” BAR 14. STIHL 026 15” BAR (plastic “026 tag” missing from the top) 15. STIHL MS200T 14” BAR S/N 170098247 16. STIHL MS200T 12” BAR 17. STIHL MS200T 12” BAR 18. STIHL 020T 14” BAR 19. HUSQVARNA T540XP 12” BAR 20. STIHL MS211 16” BAR 21. STIHL 020AV 16” BAR HEDGECUTTERS AND POLESAWS 22. STIHL HS45 24” BAR 23. STIHL HS81R 30” BAR S/N 175940322 24. STIHL HS81T 30” BAR S/N 176639882 25. STIHL KM131 KOMBI UNIT WITH ANGLED HEDGECUTTER AND STRIMMER ATTACHMENT 26. STIHL HT101 POLESAW S/N 297634206 27. STIHL HT75 POLESAW S/N 67952532 (CHAINSAW HEAD HAD JUBILEE CLIP REPAIR) BLOWERS 28. STIHL BR600 MAGNUM S/N 289778131 29. STIHL BR86 S/N 283523220 30. HUSQVARNA 570BTS (BRAND NEW) They also took a transit tipper which was later found burnt out near Farndon. I would imagine the thieves are working out of the Wrexham/Whitchurch England/Wales border area (but that is largely speculation on my part at present). If anyone has any possible information relating to any of this kit, or more directly to the thieves themselves please contact me in strictest confidence on 07970188050. This type of crime (and those who support it by buying the stolen equipment) destroys people’s livelihoods - those machines belong to a guy who is no different to any of us on here, and have been paid for through years of hard graft. It wasn’t undertaken by amateurs who got lucky - this was a professional crew and we are all at risk from people like them... Please please please let me know if you hear anything! -
We have an urgent requirement for a climber with all the relevant certs for 2 days work in Doncaster this Thursday (22nd) and Friday (23rd). The job is assisting with the reduction of a conifer hedge. Must come with all own climbing equipment and saw. Great rates paid, please contact for further details [email protected]
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The wait is over - Rotatech chains to fit the Stihl MS150 saw are now available to order online! Shop Here or Find Out More
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Fitted a brand new sugi hara bar and chain today on a husky 550. The same bar and same chain has been fitted to another 550 and works fine but for some reason today it just wasn’t cutting through anything bigger than 4”. it seems as if the chain it pulling away from the bar when is being cut through the timber. If anyone has any ideas or this has happened in the past then I would very much appreciate any input. Thabks in advance.
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We are looking for reliable hand cutters with CS30, CS31 to coppice chestnut. Now until to March 2017. Need to be self-employed and have your own transport and kit. Paid on a piece rate basis on sites around Midhurst and Petworth in West Sussex. Call 07505094691 or email [email protected]
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Hello to everyone, as you'll probably see, I'm new here. Just a quick query, how does the Husqvarna 435 compare to Stihl of the same 'ish price tag? I've used older Husqvarna saws, but a long time ago. Just been using Stihl chainsaws recently. It's for occasional use, no heavy logging but obviously I need it to generally cover a range of basic functions. I'm looking at a 'new in box', factory sealed example. I must admit I'm tempted to wait for a second hand Stihl, but would appreciate your thoughts. Many thanks everyone.
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Super Sexy Chainsaw Oil (Christmas Edition) We completely sold out on Black Friday and we have now fully restocked! For a limited time only, enjoy DOUBLE NAS Loyalty Points + A FREE Rotatech Hat with your order. Use offer code 'XMAS21' to claim your free hat! Please note this is a top seller and once it's gone, we cant guarantee stock until Mid January 2018! Shop Here
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I've been checking the revs on my little Echo saw, I followed the carb adjustment procedure for bringing the saw up to temp which involves a couple of minutes of switching from idle to full throttle to idle etc. Then checked the max revs which were about 12,000, so under the max revs listed in the user guide of 12,500. So far so good. However, I decided to check them again after using the saw for a bit of logging and noted the max revs were over 12,500 although only by 100rpm. I assume this is to be expected, i.e. after a fair bit of use the revs may well be higher than when a saw is tuned at service? Also would a saw be able to cope better with revving slightly over maximum revs if a good quality 2-stroke oil is used?
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A while back Husqvarna launched the Husqvarna 550xp Chainsaw. Has any tried this chainsaw yet and what are your thoughts?
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Good evening all, I have lurked on this forum for a while, drinking in the collective knowledge. As a family we have run a few 038s for years. The "heirloom" was bought second hand in the (very) early 80s and stihl runs like a dream. it has felled/cut a lot of timber over the years. I picked up a good metal handled 038super around 10 years ago for beer money and it gets used for firewood duties. We would only put around 20 fills through it a year. I took a notion that I would rebuild a saw this winter and have sourced a 1991 038 that suffered a failure of the roller bearing on the crankshaft and chewed up the piston and cylinder. I have already sourced a used OEM crankshaft and have picked up on pointers from other threads about where to source original Stihl spare parts. On the subject on non-OEM pistons and cylinders, can anyone point me to a source of satisfactory parts? I am finding it hard to ID the manufacturer of some of the kits available and until I am given advice to the contrary, would prefer a nikasil coated cylinder to a chromed one. The Tecomec website doesn't guide me to any wholesalers in the UK or Ireland... PMs/pointers to a particular brand/seller would be welcomed.
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As someone relatively new to the Arb industry my search for a new top handle to add to my Chainsaw fleet was far more in depth than I initially thought it would be. Already the owner of a Stihl 200t, and with a number of pruning jobs on the horizon, I wanted something a bit lighter on my harness but something that was still capable of handling more than just the odd pruning cut. The Stihl 150t had a variety of reviews online and with my local Arb friends. This ranged from 'great saw, wish I had one' to 'why buy a 150 when you have a silky?'. In the end I took the plunge, the upcoming pruning jobs would cover it's purchase and hopefully it will be used more and more. It wasn't a bad decision. The 150t is a special little saw. So light on my harness that during it's first days work I had to regularly question whether I had it with me in the tree! Okay, it doesn't have the guts of a 200/201 but that's why I already have a 200. A dream saw for any pruning work and even a pleasure to used on a small dismantle. The only downside was having to get the Husky up about 5 metres sooner than you would with a 200t but the 150 made light work of every limb on the way up whilst also being extremely easy manouver around the tree. All in all the 150t is a fantastic little saw, that like any tool in your arsenal, has it's niche. In this case predominantly pruning and you have to take this into consideration every time you use it. It's not going to take a 16" bar and dismantle huge trees, so you'll just over work it doing too much heavy work but that's why you have a 200t. Similarly, it's not going to replace your silky, that annoying branch right next to your rope or face is removed far more safely by hand than by saw. But what it will definitely do is amaze you with it's lightness, surprise you with it's actual capability (despite the doubters) and make you very glad you took the plunge in getting one. -
As someone relatively new to the Arb industry my search for a new top handle to add to my Chainsaw fleet was far more in depth than I initially thought it would be. Already the owner of a Stihl 200t, and with a number of pruning jobs on the horizon, I wanted something a bit lighter on my harness but something that was still capable of handling more than just the odd pruning cut. The Stihl 150t had a variety of reviews online and with my local Arb friends. This ranged from 'great saw, wish I had one' to 'why buy a 150 when you have a silky?'. In the end I took the plunge, the upcoming pruning jobs would cover it's purchase and hopefully it will be used more and more. It wasn't a bad decision. The 150t is a special little saw. So light on my harness that during it's first days work I had to regularly question whether I had it with me in the tree! Okay, it doesn't have the guts of a 200/201 but that's why I already have a 200. A dream saw for any pruning work and even a pleasure to used on a small dismantle. The only downside was having to get the Husky up about 5 metres sooner than you would with a 200t but the 150 made light work of every limb on the way up whilst also being extremely easy manouver around the tree. All in all the 150t is a fantastic little saw, that like any tool in your arsenal, has it's niche. In this case predominantly pruning and you have to take this into consideration every time you use it. It's not going to take a 16" bar and dismantle huge trees, so you'll just over work it doing too much heavy work but that's why you have a 200t. Similarly, it's not going to replace your silky, that annoying branch right next to your rope or face is removed far more safely by hand than by saw. But what it will definitely do is amaze you with it's lightness, surprise you with it's actual capability (despite the doubters) and make you very glad you took the plunge in getting one. View full review
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You may have heard about Rotatech Chainsaw Chains, but want to know more before you part with the pennies? Here are just some Rotatech reviews from Amazon, Facebook, YouTube and professional journals.... Click here to read more
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Hey guys, could you check out my youtube channel and videos, here is the link to one
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We are changing the way in which we sell the Granberg mills. Usually they come in a host of different sizes 24",30",36",42",48",60". The longer mills are awkward and expensive to ship - also it means keeping a large stock of rails in to meet different lengths. We'll still do the Alaskan 36" mills (which adjust down to 30" and 24") but for the longer mills we are now switching to the Granberg Ultimate mills - these will have 36"/24" and 12" extensions as well as x2 round handles. You can then make you mill to 24"/36"/48"/60"... for longer just buy another joining kit. If you have a Granberg mill you want to extend you can now do so without having to buy a whole new handle and rail set https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/mills-kits/alaskan-mill-mk-4/ The mill in the pics is set up as a 48" Alaskan.
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We now have a line of GB ProTop chainsawbars. CSB has stocked GB bars for years but mainly for chainsaw mills and for big saws. We have now extended the range and have a good selection of ProTop bars for Stihl and Husky saws. Reduced prices for this week only - after that back to RRP for ever so if you want a deal get one soon! Find the range here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/?s=ProTop&submit=Search&post_type=product Click the bar to confirm what it fits. These bars have also been loaded onto the selector.
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