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Showing results for tags 'chainsaw'.
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I was looking for something about chainsaw (not only Stihl), then I found one of their How-to series on one of their blogposts. It said "Usually, the horsepower or displacement of the engine is relative to the length of your bar, and is matched at the factory. " Is the horsepower or engine displacement matched with bar length, or is the horsepower matched with engine displacement, or others?
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
Here is my 266xp, never used this saw. Brought it and it's jus sat on the shelf, it starts good but is a little boggy when starting off. No longer need this saw but was told it's in great nick for its age. I ordered a 28 inch Holzfforma bar for it in the mindset that I was going to use it but I'm not, also have a 28 inch Oregon ripping chain that can also be purchased at an extra price. Lmk if you want the bigger bar and chain. Will be sent next day delivery via work. Many thanks£375
Stow on the wold - GB
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This item is SOLD
- FOR SALE
- USED
Here is my 266xp, never used this saw. Brought it and it's jus sat on the shelf, it starts good but is a little boggy when starting off. No longer need this saw but was told it's in great nick for its age. I ordered a 28 inch Holzfforma bar for it in the mindset that I was going to use it but I'm not, also have a 28 inch Oregon ripping chain that can also be purchased at an extra price. Lmk if you want the bigger bar and chain. Will be sent next day delivery via work. Many thanks£375
Stow on the wold - GB
-
This item is SOLD
- FOR SALE
- USED
Here is my 266xp, never used this saw. Brought it and it's jus sat on the shelf, it starts good but is a little boggy when starting off. No longer need this saw but was told it's in great nick for its age. I ordered a 28 inch Holzfforma bar for it in the mindset that I was going to use it but I'm not, also have a 28 inch Oregon ripping chain that can also be purchased at an extra price. Lmk if you want the bigger bar and chain. Will be sent next day delivery via work. Many thanks£375
Stow on the wold - GB
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I am currently carrying out research regarding chainsaw safety. We are targeting users with less experience of a chainsaw to get their thoughts behind how safe they feel when using a chainsaw and if it was possible would they pay for a more safe product. I would greatly appreciate if you could fill in the survey from the following link, it will only take 20 seconds, cheers; QUB Chainsaw Research Survey WWW.SURVEYMONKEY.CO.UK Web survey powered by SurveyMonkey.com. Create your own online survey now with... I am aware that the best way to improve safety when operating a chainsaw is through good training and the correct use of PPE. However these elements may not always be present as is evident though the injury stats. If you are a more experienced user, please feel free to fill out the survey as you would have when you first started out. Also, feel free to throw about some thoughts in the comments, thanks.
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I'm currently carrying out a bit of research into the safety of chainsaws for my MEng Electrical and Electronic Engineering Degree. Chainsaws cause a lot of injuries every year and can seem a bit dangerous to the beginner. I am aware that there are safety mechanisms in place such as the chain brake, operated by hand or via inertia, however people still get injured. It would appear that naturally applying the chain brake by your left wrist in a dangerous situation comes with training and/or experience. My understanding of the inertial brake is that it requires an reactive force by the user, which again comes more naturally with training and/or experience. Would an electronic device that can sense abnormal movements (sudden changes in angle or position) and apply the brake quicker than the novice user make the chainsaw a more welcoming tool for the beginner? I understand that the chainsaw may still hit the user, however injury would be reduced by a multitude as the chain will have stopped. I am open to any comments or further advice.
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Hello I was wondering if anyone could help I have a old ms200t I brought a while ago it starts but cuts out and bogs I was just wondering if anyone new what to look for or if there was anywhere close to hitchin I could send it ? Thanks in advance -
Over the past 2 years I have bought an Echo CS362tes top handle saw, CS2511tes and a CS621SX ground saw, to replace there Husky equivalents and been really impressed with there design and performance. Dick Leigh Chainsaws in Barrow has kindly lent us an Echo CS-7310SX to demo for when the time comes to replace a 70cc saw. We have held on to the saw for about 3 months, enough time to put several tanks of fuel through it, bed in the piston and ring, and wear out 1 chain. I think this is a good saw that could have a long lifespan. If you are going to visit Dick Leighs for a 70cc saw this is well worth considering and should definitely be on your short list. If the choice is between maximum performance or longevity the Echo is likely to win on build and reliability, and with a little tuning it could be a game changer for Echo. View full review
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Over the past 2 years I have bought an Echo CS362tes top handle saw, CS2511tes and a CS621SX ground saw, to replace there Husky equivalents and been really impressed with there design and performance. Dick Leigh Chainsaws in Barrow has kindly lent us an Echo CS-7310SX to demo for when the time comes to replace a 70cc saw. We have held on to the saw for about 3 months, enough time to put several tanks of fuel through it, bed in the piston and ring, and wear out 1 chain. I think this is a good saw that could have a long lifespan. If you are going to visit Dick Leighs for a 70cc saw this is well worth considering and should definitely be on your short list. If the choice is between maximum performance or longevity the Echo is likely to win on build and reliability, and with a little tuning it could be a game changer for Echo. -
We are looking for a trainee arborist to join our growing team at Sheasby Tree Services. What we offer; Comprehensive in house training External training courses and certificates from official governing bodies A diverse workload in beautiful locations A friendly and positive team PPE & company uniform # days annual leave, plus bank holidays A growing, forward thinking company with a heavy employee satisfaction focus What we want; Motivated and dedicated individuals who strive to provide the highest standard of work Professional attitude and ability to communicate clearly with colleagues and clients alike Ideally, you will hold a full UK driving license but this is not essential Eagerness to learn and develop a rewarding arboriculture career The ideal candidate will have a very strong work ethic, be a flexible and reliable team player with the ability to use their own initiative. They must have a serious approach to health and safety and ensure this is at the forefront of every task; prior knowledge of health and safety regulations, risk assessments and emergency first aid is desired, however this is not essential as we can provide full training. They will take pride and responsibility in maintaining a clean and tidy work environment, both on site and at the depot and they will strive to maintain all equipment to the highest standard. Salary dependant on skills and experience. To apply for this role, please send your CV, along with a cover letter, to [email protected]. Application Deadline: 18th June 2021
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What saws are everyone using? I'm looking to buy my first few saws to start up on my own and have always had stihl. I'm thinking initially MS201, and MS461 before getting a 661 in the future. Anyone have any preferences on some of the husky saws? I've been climbing for years but somehow never used husky anywhere. Any advice appreciated!
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Currently studying Arboriculture and Urban Forestry in Inverness and very keen to get my CS30/31. Wondered if anyone is providing training and assesments with assesment location provided by assesor, despite lockdown or very soon after lockdown is lifted? There's quite a few students seeking their basic chainsaw tickets so could put together a group if needed. Also if anyone needs a ground worker in the area, I'm physically fit and willing to learn!
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Hello, Over the past week all of my employees have broken at least one brake band. Having never broke a band myself I am wondering if there are any pro tips on what to look out for that might be causing excessive wear? They have all broke at the point where the band comes round and begins to wrap round the smaller circle nearer the brake handle. The saws are only 1 month old, all the same make, same model, from the same supplier. They have been going under tough conditions brashing and snedding gnarly sitka spruce though I'd hope to get more than a month out of a band. Given that I did not have as many brake bands in store as spare this will slow the job somewhat, so any advice on the issue would be much appreciated! all the best, Liam Broc
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Hello, just wondering if any of you no if this part is needed for anything?
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Hi All, Would really appreciate any help. I require a chainsaw for garden maintenance, firewood cutting and pallet cutting. I have been using a old solo 645 (now dead) which i purchased second hand this served me well, but use to struggle with bigger timber. After reading this forum and seen the cult following of the 346, i have took the plunge and purchased a second hand 346xp from ebay. The seller has advised all parts are genuine husqvarna. It has had a new 15" bar, stihl 3/8 1.5 chain, spark plug, brake band, air filter and pull cord installed. I picked this saw over a new ms181, as everyone had a pretty negative opinion on it. Now i had a few questions: 1. Shall I get the saw ported? 2. Which bar length and (brand & model) is optimum for this saw, cutting all sorts dirty timber and all? 3. Which chain? I also had the opportunity to purchase a secondhand 550xp 3 years old, but decided against it for 346. This forum has been a great help and a amazing fountain of knowledge. Many thanks.
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Immediate start available We currently have a position available to be part of a small vegetation team undertaking brushcutting, hedge cutting, path clearance and some chainsaw/tree works for local authority contract. Work may also include general maintenance works such as installation of posts, minor fencing repairs, path maintenance, ditching works and repairs to street furniture. Mostly for Highways but also on the rights of way network. MUST have: a full UK driving licence (no more than 3 points) Experience with brushcutters and hedgecutters Must be physically fit. IDEALLY you will have: Chainsaw ticket The works will take place across Surrey and will be based from our yard near Haslemere (GU27) 7am - 3.30pm 26k pa pro rata. PAYE or self employed.
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Hey guys, I’m student and currently writing my master thesis about the future development of chainsaws and trends in forestry. And I need you as regular users of chainsaws to help me with it! Since my personal knowledge about this topic is limited, I am conducting a survey to identify what’s important for you working with a chainsaw and how you see the future. Of course the survey is anonymous. Link to the survey: https://www.umfrageonline.com/s/f4abc53 I’m very happy about any participant! Thanks a lot for your help! -
Hi, Im looking for some advice please, My 346XP was left over the summer with fuel in, and when i started it last week it wasn't as powerful and kept cutting out. I read that this could be a dirty carbureta after sitting with fuel. I have now cleaned the carbureta, careful to put the limiting screws back in the same spot, but when I put it back together I cant even get is to fire up with the choke on, let alone get it running. any advice welcome. Thanks Celi
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Looking for Strimmer/hedgetrimmer/chainsaw operatives for ongoing deveg work. Must have Cscs with Rolo (liss card) or willing to get one before commencing work. Phone 07815 612682 or email [email protected].
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Anybody have any experience shipping their tools and climbing gear from Australia to UK. I’m looking to ship a couple of small saws and roughly 100kg of climbing gear.
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Hi everyone and firstly a hello to you all; just joined arbtalk having read a few threads from “the outside” and I am looking forward to being part of the community. I am hoping someone here might be able to help me- I want to repair my dad’s old Husqvarna 50 (barrel and piston are damaged due to running without enough / with no 2-stroke mixed...). he’s owned it from new but was going to throw away. Problem is I can’t tell if it’s a “special” (45mm I believe) or a regular 44mm 50. If anyone can give me a steer I’d be very grateful and it can help me get the correct new cylinder etc. (also- I notice that most aftermarket cyclinders have a decompression valve but the original does not, can’t see a problem with that unless anyone knows better?) thanks, merlin Ps was taken apart by a local dealer to assess the damage
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Hi All, I've been lurking here for a long time, reading interesting discussions. However, I've got a question I'd be interested in people's views on. I've got a couple of 346XP (newer version) chainsaws, one bought in 2007 and the other in 2009. Having recently bought a 536LiXP, I decided to sell the older 346XP to a friend who was just starting in forestry. But, 6 weeks later it stopped dead while he was cleaning up a tree stump, and the engine wouldn't turn over. My assumption was not enough mixing oil, but we took it apart last night and found the piston had broken (see attached images), with no sign of overheating damage to piston or cylinder. So... I'm refunding him his money, as I sold it thinking it was working but promised that if it died in the near future I'd pay him back. And now I'm not sure what to do from the following options: 1. Have a go at repairing it myself. Problem here is I don't really need it (which is why I'd sold it) - I have a working 346XP, a larger petrol saw too and am trying to use the electric one as much as possible. 2. Keep it for spares for my other 346XP. But then I may not use any of the parts for years... 3. Sell it as it is for someone to repair or use for parts. It was in working order in all other respects. 4. Sell parts from it on ebay. (more money that option 3, but a lot more work) Any thoughts greatly appreciated! Thanks, Mike
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Hi all, I am in need of a smaller saw for Coppicing smaller hazel trashing scrub etc... Currently I have a 365 huzqvarna which is great for larger coppice but is a bit of a lump when just trashing small stuff. I am open to ideas of all brands so what would you use/ recommend?
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Just loving the new Dolmar 80cc 7910 chainsaw.... Having just done my CS32 qualifications the chainsaw was awesome... It chewed through the tree trunks like it was going out of fashion... It was a bit heavy when throwing it about for snedding and a 60cc Dolmar 6100 might be better for doing that... But I guess that I will have to just get used to it and toughen up..? Can't wait to get on the next courses... Windblown & Uprooted.... And Emergancy Tree Works
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We have a number of openings in our growing team. A chainsaw operative with CS30/31. (002003 and 00200) Also, an apprentice working towards these. Full clean driving licence preferred, but not essential Based in Thrapston but will be required to travel across the East Midlands 40 hours a week. Candidates must be reliable, diligent and work to very high standard. They will undertake a wide range of tree surgery to the highest standards. Send a CV and covering letter to: [email protected]
