darroch
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Everything posted by darroch
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Well screws went in a treat and I just backed off when they felt really tight and screwed clockwise again, till they bottomed. I just dipped screws in meths. Gave it a run this morning and all well so far. It is a 40mm piston and barrel kit and original was around 38mm. Seems to be what Stihl are supply for FS 300 now. Thanks to all!
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Thanks a lot guys. I will order new screws to make sure. Looking at the screws, the thread is coarse but looks coarser than M5 0.8? I have the original screws. Strange set up, Tapping a hole in alloy with a screw. Does the swarf just sit in there till you take the muffler off next time? Do you use alloy lube as you screw in and cut the thread?
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On getting this genuine Stihl barrel and piston from one of our big suppliers, it arrived with a broken ring. Ok these things happen and it was replaced prompt and free with gen, ring. On rebuilding the seals etc and barrel today, I went to attach muffler. Guess what? 5MM set screws wont take into barrel. No thread, they have not been tapped. Where are Stihl making this stuff? The original piston and barrel was Stihl stamped Mahle This set is just Stihl, no Mahle on it. Germans cannot make stuff in Germany any more. Their cars are the same now. Not a component made in the Fatherland and poor as a result. I only have M5X0.5 tap. Need to get an 0.8 tap tomorrow.
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All done. Standard thread on both sides of crank on Stihl FS 300.
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I saw the arrows. Thought they were indication of the crank rotation..... doh!. Thank you. I will attend to it.
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The nut on the stator/flywheel side is righty tighty. I thought that meant that the clutch side would be left hand thread? I may give it a go slackening anti clockwise in a gingerly fashion, less anyone warns........No!!🤩
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Thanks. I put some pressure on it with crank locked and flippin heck.........not half locked for a wee thing like that. Scared I damaged crank or something. The nut is 6 sided but longer on flat sides than ends. I cannot see that nut in a parts drawing on L&S. Wonder if it is part of that wheel like washer cover?
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Guys, I posted a while ago about this clearing saw. I got a new Stihl piston and barrel for it. So I have it stripped a bit and plan to put new oil crank seals in as well. I have tried to remove the clutch side cover washer to get into the seal. I am assuming it is left hand thread on clutch side. The nut on the crank is rather odd rectangular shape. I have put some pressure on it clockwise to loosen but I don't want to overdo it yet. Does this screw out as the flywheel one came out no probs. Little real info or demo on this machine.
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I did that Chris. What I could see there was no scoring on cylinder or piston. Not to say rings may be worn though?
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These are the things going through my mind guys My comp readings were a bit lower than spec and the head looks a bit oily after a hard hour running. I will check these things out and see if I can use the vac gauge I bought to test crank seals etc. I will check coil gap and clean then report back
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Hi guys I picked up a good machine that needed a new carb( non starter) Got a cheap new carb and machine starts up fine with good power. Set the carb up on a decent YT channel guide . Problem is that when hot, it dosen’t like idle. It gassed up and stalls at idle, then will not start again till motor has cooled. It will use the full tank of fuel if you keep it at high revs. E5 premium fuel
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Hello guys. Newbie here to learn. Love the tech talk and machine chat. I only cut firewood for a few log burners and cut some grass, but all my hobbies are in the great outdoors.
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It is your stomach that will give up eventually. Those drugs are what induce reflux. Having had that pretty bad, it is as welcome as the toothache. Very unfortunate and I hope you can find another way to live and stay afloat. Remember.........your health, is your wealth.
