damski007

I am looking to purchase some chainsaw trousers or chaps after coming pretty close to doing some serious damage to my leg today. I am not a professional and just got myself a 660 to chop up some pretty big log my local arborists dropped of for me. I don't think I should be looking on Ebay for some and wondered if you guys could advise what to stay clear of and what should I look at for an intermediate pair for occasional use.

Thanks in advance

21 hours ago, Stubby said:

@shavey ...... Give Andrew Shavey a message , he would know . I bet does not rev much but is a real torque monster ,.

It sounds lovely and has some real grunt, rips through logs effortlessly.

Thanks Dan

All the reports and reviews say that its a real muscle saw and worth a fair bit. Its never let me down and cuts really well. lets hope someone can put a value on it. 

I have a lovely Sachs Dolmar 153 with a 37" bar. Start third pull every time and runs like new. Don't really get to use it any longer, anyone know what this would be worth if I offered it up for sale?.

Cheers Stubby

All sorted now.

Put yourself in the tip site directory . 

If you are doing any work around Axminster, I can take any logs or wood chip. Very easy access and easy to drop off. Anything considered.

Thanks in advance

If it was really old it probably contained chemicals that have subsequently been banned. New stuff doesn't work so well.

Once treated they should be fine.

Generally the woodworm you find in a log will die once the timber is dried.  These are not the furniture beetle which likes dry timber.  Also the fact that the holes are black shows  the ones in the photo are old holes from years ago.
 
I would put them to dry and keep a look out for any new holes, especially in may and June and use a chemical treatment if there is any sign of new activity.
 
 The chemical treatments will only kill the beatles as they emerge but this will then stop them laying new eggs.

I've been reading up about woodworm, conclusion was that all the chemical treatments are mostly snake oil as they don't penetrate deep enough anyway. Getting the wood moisture content down will kill them for sure and is the only way really.

Please can you assist in identifying the larvae that I have found in two of the trees I have just had milled into planks. What is the best treatment to kill these without ruining the wood?.

How much milling do you intend doing with it?
 
It's an old saw... and not that common. Parts are getting harder to source.
 
I'd advise against using that saw for milling (but don't sell it on! Keep it and look after it)

Shavey on here is the man on these, he's in your area as well, AJS axes and saws, he will give all the info that you need, he know's much more than me on Dolmars and is a dealer, if you hunt through old posting you will find him, PM him, he's always busy so sometimes response may be a little slow, great guy!! 

What part of the world are you in?

Originally these saws and ones of similar age were recommended to run on 25:1, but that was old mineral 2 stroke oil, today modern fully synthetic oils are much better at lubricating and a cleaner burn, so less smoke and carbon build up. Check compression and when plug is out have a look inside, if run on 25:1 it could be carboned up. If it is a very low use mint saw it is a collectors item and is worth good money, maybe sell it and buy a later suitable for milling saw, milling is very hard on saws! Post some photos up of it!

Originally these saws and ones of similar age were recommended to run on 25:1, but that was old mineral 2 stroke oil, today modern fully synthetic oils are much better at lubricating and a cleaner burn, so less smoke and carbon build up. Check compression and when plug is out have a look inside, if run on 25:1 it could be carboned up. If it is a very low use mint saw it is a collectors item and is worth good money, maybe sell it and buy a later suitable for milling saw, milling is very hard on saws! Post some photos up of it!

Echo on what was previously written, take care of condition of saw, parts are getting thin on the ground, most NLA, cylinders and pistons rare to say the least. If you're only milling with it, remove the chainbrake ( if it has one!) Use fully synthetic top quality 2 stroke oil, at least 40:1 ( maybe 32:1)  others will have an opinion on that and premium or ethanol free fuel.  Treat it like the geriatric it is, don't push it and enjoy!   

My advice would be to do a proper health check on saw before you start milling - paying attention to fuel system and check for air leaks around crankcase seals, intake boots, gaskets etc. As you're probably aware milling is harsh, it'll find any mechanical niggles in short order. Might be best to do some cross cutting first too, make sure it behaves itself. I'd set the saw up to run a little rich which will keep piston temps a tad cooler.
 
Depends what value you put on the saw. And can it be rebuilt if it seizes a piston? 
 
I did all the above with a seconhand 390XP and it still shat itself in a 12" milling cut. Later I learnt it had an aftermarket piston and repaired cylinder in it..... thats the lottery of secondhand saws.

31 minutes ago, gary112 said:

I don,t do milling but would have thought it was plenty powerful enough

Thanks again, I hope someone can give advice on what chain etc would be best to use.

Dolmar 153 is 100cc

I have just purchased a Dolmar 153 with a 32” bar, and intend to use it as an Alaskan mill. How do I know what cc this is and would it man enough?. I am very green to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated.