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MisterBoy

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Everything posted by MisterBoy

  1. MisterBoy
    Thanks for the reminder! So I've had the MSA coming up a year and pretty happy with it. I've even cut something more than 14" and it was fine though took a while. The AP200 battery definitely doesn't last forever, if I'm processing a fallen tree I might have to charge again but this is rare. Compared to the petrol MS180 well I've used that saw precisely once since getting the electric... We had a large tree felled and left for me to chop up as firewood. Lots of 12-14" trunk so I decided to use the petrol one, as much to check it ran well after sitting for a year. I can't see much difference between them is the long and short of it. I prefer the electric.
  2. MisterBoy
    For home use I run 3 small Stihl saws - a petrol MS180 (3/8"), and electric pole-saw + MSA200 (both 1/4" PM3 chain). I've been using Stihl synth plus chain oil as it's the one the dealer gave me but looking to buy more I see they do synth plus, forest plus and bio plus. What is the difference between them and how do I choose which is best for me? Stihl don't seem to provide much info - is it just about how eco-friendly each is, or other stuff? Thanks.
  3. MisterBoy
    I'm pretty certain due to the general congestion of the area it's all being done that way. It's really making sure they can see where to lower stuff, drive the big chipper Absolutely. I don't expect them to magically float in like chainsaw fairies leaving no leaf or blade of grass disturbed
  4. MisterBoy
    I'm not sure what conversation you mean? The estimator was aware there are smaller trees but when the guys turn up in winter, they haven't been on-site before, surely it's my responsibility to point out any issues or hazards before they begin. I'm asking how I make them aware of things I don't want damaged on the day. I have been thinking of simply getting some trail-marker tape onto smaller trees and just pointing it out when I show them the site, so nobody can accidentally walk/drive a chipper over them thinking they're weeds. This time of year the branches are bare and the light is poor.
  5. MisterBoy
    This... I don't expect a bunch of guys with chainsaws to be tip-toeing around my flowerbeds It's more making sure that I've covered myself - if I don't point things out that's my fault - and what to do if there is any damage that I care to complain about. Obviously it happens sometimes and I'm realistic on that, and the odd little broken branch or squishing something that I can replace for a tenner is just how things go.
  6. MisterBoy
    I think so and they know it's tight since there's fences and established trees too, but the quote doesn't specifically mention every tree. In practical terms, how would you make sure you don't harm a new tree given in winter they are basically a single whip and almost invisible at times? I've accidentally flattened my own plants once or twice I wondered if I, or they, would tie ribbons or something to highlight?
  7. MisterBoy
    We have some work on large trees scheduled and it's a fairly tight working environment in our garden, specifically there are quite a few young fruit trees and hedging that will just look like sticks in winter and it's understandable they could be missed and even just trodden on in some cases. I'm not out to try and be a pain if they accidentally trampling a tiny £2 bareroot tree but I've sunk quite a lot of time and sweat and cash into planting and one dropped branch could take out a lot of work. It's a reputable, established company so I just wondered is there a standard way to sort this before work begins, rather than after the fact? Marking trees, etc? What happens if, say, a branch that is being dropped does happen to take out a fruit tree or whatever? Thanks for your advice.
  8. MisterBoy
    Hi all. Looking to replace my old Stihl BR400 backpack blower and I'm at the cross-over between the traditional 2-stroke models (BR350/430) or the lower end of the newer 4MIX range e.g. BR500. I was wondering in terms of easy maintenance and reliability is there any odds either way? Thanks for any real-world feedback.
  9. MisterBoy
    I'll try to remember. Both are from my local Stihl dealer so will presumably come with whatever Stihl recommend
  10. MisterBoy
    Just a quick update, I've decided to go with the Stihl MSA 200. The only negative I can potentially see is it runs the 1/4" Pico Micro chain (same as the pole saw). Does it really matter much for domestic use? I do rarely cut up large rounds for firewood which would ideally suit a larger saw but once I clear my current pile I plan not to need to do this again! I can't see if anyone makes a 3rd-party equivalent to the 72-link PM3 for 14" bar either.
  11. MisterBoy
    I have heard good reviews on the 54v one but the price seems very high to buy in to the flexvolt ecosystem, which was partly my query.
  12. MisterBoy
    By the way that reminds me not seen one vote for the DeWalt. Is it that clear-cut or is it simply that ARB guys automatically go to Stihl and Husky?
  13. MisterBoy
    I wondered if it's a patent thing... Last I checked you can get 3rd party DeWalt XR but not flexvolt.
  14. MisterBoy
    Best I saw was 50 quid for the AK10, 75 for the AK20. Am I right thinking nobody makes 3rd party batteries? Saved a bundle on DeWalt XR that way.
  15. MisterBoy
    I've no problem with a more powerful saw, but I figured jobs that NEED one are perhaps best left for a pro... I'd happily use a better saw but the 220 is realistically beyond my budget. Based on@Andy U comments it sounds like the MSA 200 might be the sweet spot for me personally, I've not found my MS180 to be underpowered even cutting big rounds up once in a while and a 14" bar seems just fine. I'm pretty sure I run 1/4" chain currently
  16. MisterBoy
    The 220 is a whole other ballgame based on the price jump. My petrol is the ms180 14" so hardly a powerhouse, I figured anything too big for that saw is too big for my level of experience! Mainly used for pruning and clearing fallen branches, felling small trees though I do also use it for firewood from some bigger pieces. Generally in the 2-8" range with the odd bigger one off job now and again.
  17. MisterBoy
    Well I took a look and it seems only one step up, the MSA160 supports AP batteries and I can find it for £245 bare. At 12" it's perhaps a smidge short for handling every single job, but the 14" MSA200 I see for £275 and that looks like a proper saw?
  18. MisterBoy
    Interesting idea. In hindsight buying a bigger cordless saw in the first place place would have been ideal... I liked the idea but the cost put me off. What's the smallest/cheapest saw that would run off an AP battery? The two options above both run to about £250 and I'd agree with you that a decent cordless is likely more than adequate for all my jobs, 14" is long enough though 16" is nice. I have the HTA85 and the HLA85 and they're awesome, I'm totally convinced by battery power and have no love for servicing petrol engines, but this sounds a pricey option?!
  19. MisterBoy
    I have a half acre with woodland and keen to maintain myself where possible. I already have a Stihl petrol saw and long reach polesaw but am after a small cordless saw for quick jobs. Most of my power tools are DeWalt XR so the DCM565 is an option as I have the batteries. I also have the electric Stihl HLA 65. I like Stihl so the MSA 120 or 140 are tempting, the battery isn't cross compatible but the charger is. I don't want to buy into a 3rd ecosystem and the DeWalt body-only is virtually the same as the Stihl with a battery. Are there any major differences between them or is it just down to preference? I appreciate these are probably low end for pros!
  20. MisterBoy
    Sorry @SDDavid and @Rough Hewn I'd missed these replies. I'm not in a rush to fell the tree - but presumably it would be better done when dormant. I'll make a note to contact you or feel free to drop me a message with any thoughts/questions.
  21. MisterBoy
    Can't seem to edit into my original post but managed to get some photos. In case anyone is interested or know anyone who might be, I'm in county Durham
  22. MisterBoy
    Cheers for that. My main question is if they'd want the entire huge piece, or it could be cut up in situ. Don't to find I've ruined it by mistake
  23. MisterBoy
    Hope this is an ok place to ask - I have an Ash tree about 18-24" trunk but the bottom few feet is double that diameter in a huge warty lump I believe to be a burl - there's a few smaller ones further up the trunk too. The tree itself seems in poor shape - not many leaves, many broken branches - so I've been considering having it removed but I don't want to waste what I believe is quite useful for bowl-turning etc. Wondered if anyone has any advice/experience with this when the tree is chopped?
  24. MisterBoy
    Thanks @HillyJohn I'll probably just get a couple of the PM3 then. I managed to sharpen using my regular Stihl hand-file but it was a snug fit so not ideal - also if memory serves the file is marked for 30 degrees and I think Stihl recommend 35 degrees on this chain/tool. Tried to go with what the chain wanted and it is cutting OK again but I know a hand-file is not perfect for maintaining chains properly. If the easifile works on this I'll probably just get one as it'd be useful anyway. Cheers.
  25. MisterBoy
    Would like to get a couple of backup chains for this - knackered it on a hidden nail/wire and would rather sharpen my chains when not working, just swap it over. It comes with 1/4" "Stihl Picco Micro 3 - PM3 - 64 Drive Links" and it's a 12" bar - would people recommend this Stihl one or some 3rd party one as better/cheaper? Oh also, would you use standard bar oil on this? The dealer supplied it PDI'd with oil but it looks a bit thin/runny compared to the stuff I normally use, wondered if that's deliberate for such a wee saw? Thanks.

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