StihlGreen
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Posts posted by StihlGreen
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I'm pretty sure i have an 18" .325 from my 261 which I don't use. I can get some pictures later if you are interested. Yours for the price of postage.
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1 hour ago, coppice cutter said:
A good brush hook will also do a lot of work for you as well, I strongly recommend either of the two Fiskars offerings.
Totally agree with this. I bought a Fiskars XA3 for a specific job, and I use it far more than I thought I would. It gives surprisingly clean cuts, even on 20-25mm thick stems. I wouldn't be without it now.
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I've not used the 2511 personally, but from what people say it's a cracking little saw.
I have got on well with all the Echo gear I've used, and my only complaint is that the parts backup has got a long way to go before it catches up with Stihl. This may have improved since I last ordered, but worth taking into consideration anyway.
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2 hours ago, GA Groundcare said:
Morning, I can't help with any back story on this machine but if you require any support / assistance / parts going forwards drop us a line. www.gagroundcare.com / 01380 828863
1 hour ago, PeteB said:Okay. Sold buy Hubert Nightingale (I took his job when he left), to Devon Garden Machinery 10.4.96 and sold on to Taunton Deane Borough Council in Taunton. It went to a sales circa 1999 and they had some more GreenMechs that I sold to them. We have no records for her after this - if you send me your details, I'll amend the records to show it is in your hands. [email protected]
She is of that age where we may struggle with a number of the components as life goes on but good to see her working! Welcome to the club.
Many thanks to both of you. I'll get an email across to you shortly @PeteB and I'll save your details for future reference @GA Groundcare.
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On 23/12/2021 at 22:22, PeteB said:
If the makers plate is still there, send me a picture and I'll dredge up the known history.
As the new owner, I'd be glad for any details you have available. 😁
I had a brief chat with Jase a few days ago, and he has sent me through the manual and wiring diagram. But would also be interested to know any history if there is any available.
Thanks
H
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Bit late to see this, but here goes anyway.
If you can be without it for a few days, ACS in Dewsbury (01924 453140) would be worth a call. We have used them at work to recondition various tractor clutches which are no longer available. Turnaround is usually pretty quick, and prices are very reasonable.
Hope this helps.
H.
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Just had a look at this on John Deere parts catalogue. A decent dealer should be able to help you out. It looks like that part number has been superseded, and is now F700144.
If your local dealer can't help, try Ben Burgess (Coates) 01733 840777 - I'm not affiliated with them, but they have helped us out of the mess before.
Our local dealer don't have stock, but their list price is £55.96+vat.
Hope this helps, and keep us updated how you get on.
H.
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46 minutes ago, Conner said:
If you were worried about any wear, Loctite 620 might be worth a try....probably worth checking with @spudulike for advice though....he is a very knowledgeable chap👍
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I can't help you with the size, but I have just started using a husky mesh one (the same as mentioned above) and I much prefer it to the one that comes with the sordins, far better visibility.
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I've not used a 572 personally so I can't help you with that side of things...but if you are considering a 462, I'd definitely recommend looking at a 500i. The throttle response on the 500i never fails to impress....see if you can have a play with one before you buy. 👍
Hope this helps.
H.
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1 hour ago, AHPP said:
I've just bought my first piece of plant, a little skidsteer. One of the auxiliary hose couplers leaks slightly when the hoses are dangling unused when I don't have an implement plugged in. Not enough to bother replacing the hose since I'll almost certainly break it in the machine learning curve soon anyway. Can you get caps or blanked off couplers or something to keep the ends clean and from dripping hydraulic oil into the machine frame? Any suggestions? New ish to machines so don't know what things are called etc.
If it is just leaking from the coupler, you should be able to replace it without removing the hose.
It should unscrew here.
If you find a local hydraulics shop or agri dealer, they will probably have one on the shelf. If you do replace it, it is good practice to replace the dowty washer at the same time.
The caps that @eggsarascal suggested wouldn't be a bad idea to keep the dirt out, as hydraulics and dirt don't mix too well!
Hopefully this doesn't sound like I'm trying to teach you to suck eggs!
EDIT: These are normally called a flat face coupler. Or the male half is a flat face probe, and the female a flat face carrier.
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1 hour ago, Patrick goulding said:
That guys web site will tell you all you want to no 👍
Cheers. I'll add that one to the list👍
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5 hours ago, Jake Andrews said:
10-13mm would be good for knot practice. Just a 2m section would likely suffice. A list of knots we would predominantly use would be:
Figure of 8
Bowline
Clove hitch
Double barrel (or double fisherman’s)
Timber hitch
Cow hitch
And then…… there’s the hitches which is a minefield tbh because it would depend on what system you use to climb. I’m sure others will include more knots that they use day to day and unfortunately I never used a book so have no recommendations.Brilliant, thanks for that. I will see if I can find an offcut of that sort of size and that should get me started.
2 hours ago, Vedhoggar said:Tree Climber’s Companion for knots and climbing techniques. Knots Step by Step Des Pawson for Gide to tying knots in general is quite good. Climbing knots I use (old school): bowline, prussik knot, figure of eight and double fisherman’s knot (to make prussik loop). Other knots I used in general tree work: running bowline, timber hitch, marlin-spike hitch, carters hitch, sheet bend and anchor bend variant.
Thank you. Will add those books to the list.
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So....I'm warming to the idea of climbing in the future....recreational to start with, hopefully progressing to arb work later on. Can anyone reccomend a good book of knots, or names of specific knots that you use regularly. Also a recommendation on a good size or type of rope to practice knots on would be useful.
Thanks in advance.
H.
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3 hours ago, Wonky said:
I can see all of the pics wyk posted, must be your end 😉
Strange.....I have just discovered I can see them on the email notifications, but not on here😄
Looks like it is my end
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20 hours ago, wyk said:
I dunno, I wouldn't think my productivity would increase by adding in a teenager in to the mix I had to look after.
My take is run a 28 if it's stock, 32 if it's ported. I assume it's mainly for stumping and large cross cuts, so dunno if a 500i will oil a 36inch bar well enough there. Good luck. I am not fond of using a saw with anything more than a 32inch light bar on it, tho.
I'm an American who used to live in the Pacific Northwest - mostly Oregon and Washington state. I've worked in logging there and forestry, and was the forester on a ranch in Oregon. I have also worked in the UK and am the forester on a large estate in Waterford, Ireland. I mostly keep a low profile here, and I understand it's a good time making fun of the yanks and painting them with one big brush, but when it comes to logging and forestry, the US doesn't mess about.
In the fast growing wood in the PNW, you can run longer bars, even in the maple there. It's not just that, but many local saw shops carry skip chain to help facilitate longer bars for better reach and to more easily cut the bigger trees that are there. My local shop in Oregon only carried 3/8 skip chain and nothing else. Unless you asked for different, you also got square chisel chain.
28inch bars are the norm there on 70cc saws. Some folks have a spare 20inch for firewood.
If they are professionals, they would rarely have a stock saw. Most are modified, some quite a lot.
By law in Canada(and it also defaults to saws for sale in logging in the States), all large saws used for logging or forestry must have large bucking spikes and full wrap handles. Thus, it is actually hard to find a 70cc+ saw without a full wrap and big spikes in the region.
One of the timber cruisers I worked with in Washington always had a ported 372XP with a 32 bar in his truck left over from his logging days. It made short work of the typical wood that would fall across our trails or roads. One of which was a 5 foot wide Douglas Fir after a storm.
My logging saw, a ported 385xp with an Oregon light weight 32 inch bar and relatively rare full comp square chain(I paid $250 used for this saw and ported and rebuilt it for work):
Some of our lengths weren't right, so I had to follow one of our trucks to the mill one day...
On the ranch in Oregon, my firewood could be this:
(That's a 24 inch bar on an MS361 with skip square chain)
Or this, depending on the day:
View from that ranch on a good day:
If you go to the coast, it looks more like this:
The jeep I used(for work and sleep) when up in the logging roads - 1980 Ford F150 Bronco, 5.8litre V8, dual locking diffs, 32inch tires, and 8mpg average.
Interesting stuff.
I think the only reason I make fun of the yanks is because I'm jealous of them😋....and their massive trees....hope nobody takes it personally.
For some reason I can't see your pictures....but that bronco sounds like fun😁
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4 minutes ago, spuddog0507 said:
Things like a 170 with 25" bar to cut 6" softwood could only be in America, i dont know what it is over there but they all seem to need to have the biggest saw they can get there hands on but are only cutting small timber for firewood, One guy puts posts on another site and sorry but i have to laugh but he posted some photos of a FS350 pick up loaded with lengh,s of wood ready for splitting, this had took him and his 14yr old son from 9,30 - 3,30 and they were parked next to the stack of timber, but he did say they only had a short lunch break !, looking at what they had done and the shape of them 2 i tend to think the lunch break was from 11 - 3,
You have to remember that the nearest McDonald's might have been an hour's drive away😋
I'm assuming their ppe also lives up to the American stereotype....trainers, baseball cap (with invisible ear defenders) and a pair of shorts....maybe jeans if it is winter🙃
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On 01/01/2021 at 12:41, MattyF said:
If you go over 28” you will be limited really to skip chain.. that’s not something a lot of dealers have in stock so it’s not like you can wreck a chain and pick one up to finish the job from the shop down the road... there isn’t much a 28” bar won’t cut and the shorter the bar the easier it is to maintain and keep sharp and cut with to manoeuvre and fell a large tree, and given the state of a lot of bigger trees especially ash it would be safer to use bore cuts any way.. using a 48” bar on a stump yesterday I had forgot what a pita big bars are and also there is a bit of skill to using them effectively so swapped back to the 500i on a 28” just because it’s that much easier.. big bars for me only have one place really and that’s on a chainsaw mill.
That's a fair point, I try and keep at least one fresh chain in the truck, aswell as whatever i am going to be using that day.....and then only touch the fresh one as a last resort.
Definitely useful to be able to grab a chain from a dealer when you are stuck though🙂
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On 01/01/2021 at 12:18, Rob D said:
30" and full skip is prob the safer bet.
Fair enough.👍
You should see an order from me shortly then😁
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14 minutes ago, Stihl123 said:
oregon full skip chains are awesome
It'll run a 36 with a full skip
Sounds promising, will definitely be going for Oregon full skip, just deciding whether to go 30 or 36
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Thanks for everyone's replies.
@allseasons What size do you usually run?
7 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:I’m pretty sure it’ll pull 36” full comp.
Personally 30” would be a good bar.
I run a 30” full comp on my 461 no problems.
Stateside they use 461’s with up to 42” full skip in softwoods.
That's good to know, I'll have a look at at a 30".
At least if I need anything bigger than that i might find an excuse for an 880😋
Bet a 461 grunts with 42" hanging off it 😳
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As title suggests....up until now I have just used a 20" on the 500i. I'm after something for the bigger stumps and logs, what sizes are people running?
I am tempted to try a Sugihara pro in 36" and some oregon full skip chain from @RobD . Be glad of peoples thoughts before I go for it.
Cheers. H
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9 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:
Just that its good younger folk are showing an interest in woodcraft. Gotta be better than being glued to the Xbox all day!
If you want PM me your address and I'll send you a new Stihl or Husky Hatchet (which ever you prefer) to get you started.
Sorry to jump in on your thread....but that's made my day....in the current climate, seeing someone offering a gift to a complete stranger is really refreshing ?
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Would be interested in the 026s if they haven't already been claimed?
The Holy grail?
in Chainsaws
Posted
Apologies...just been and checked. It is 1.6mm gauge, and quite a lot more worn than I remembered. 🤦♂️