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About Gimlet

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    Senior Member

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles, shooting and hedges
  • Occupation
    Commercial hedge layer
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  1. Don't know about those ATMs but £25K for a used Robocut and probably another 10 for a grapple attachment I would think.
  2. Winch gear up and zip-wire timber down with a gravity brake. To get it all set up, buy a great gentle draft gelding to transport a donkey engine, associated clobber and fuel to the top of the hill, do the rest of it yourself with the pull of a handle and use the time you save to plod across the countryside in your spare time on Dobbin... Maybe..
  3. A four-legged machine that eats hay and farts and has Clydesdale stamped on it's arse.
  4. There's a lot more heat than light in this thread. So you're an unscrupulous keeper wanting to get rid of an inconvenient Goshawk nest and the only solution that occurs to you is to cut the whole tree down. Really...? That's discreet isn't it. No one will notice.. I suppose when not felling his own woodland to get rid of a birds nest he's digging up badger setts with a JCB. And I dare say if annoyed by a fly buzzing against the window pane in his living room, his natural instinct would be to take a shotgun to it. No mention of the big brother reaction from RSPB placing the whole estate under camera surveillance. When did the RSPB become arbiter and enforcer of wildlife law? The last time I looked they were a charity with no right to enter and place cameras on private property. And who polices their innumerable cock-ups and acts of vandalism carried out in the blind pursuit of a political agenda?
  5. I'd like something that will kill ground elder that is growing through hardy perennials, and nettles coming up through black current bushes without harming the garden plants. Weeding is impossibIe. I know Grazon won't harm grass but I'm not so confident on broad leaf ornamentals or fruit bushes.
  6. Looks nice in prime condition but not reliably evergreen everywhere in the country so it can look very sorry. My objection is it's an extremely hungry plant that sucks up all the nutrients from the surrounding soil. It's hard work trying to grow a decent border in front of a privet hedge.
  7. Always eat my squirrels if they're clean shot. Stuff cavity with thyme and a bay leaf, wrap in bacon or pancetta, truss up and pan fry then finish in the oven for ten minutes. Lovely. You do need one each...
  8. Stihl or Husky battery saws are both good but not cheap options. And you need at least two batteries, a fast charger and an inverter to charge them from your vehicle. But they are very useful if you can't drive right up to the hedge you're working on and have to carry gear on foot for any distance. Much lighter and no fuel to carry. Also good for any hedge with large heals to cut off because you're reaching for the saw every few minutes with those and it's all too easy to leave a petrol saw sitting on the ground ticking over for hours on end which doesn't do them any good. I've burned out many plugs that way. If you go cordless Makita are very good value for money and well made but they don't have the run time or the power of the Huskys and Stihls. Ideally you'd have a couple of petrol saws - a small 13" general purpose or top handle, and a bigger 18" for big stuff, crown lifting etc, and a cordless as well. Depends how much work you're doing. If you're just starting out, I'd get a good pro quality 13" petrol to begin with. I prefer Husky for bigger saws, but I think Stihl offer a better choice of small ones.
  9. Following last year's washout winter I've decided I need an enclosed ATV for the next hedge laying season. I spent two months on a waterlogged farm where the ground was too wet to drive over with regular vehicles so all I had was a quad bike and no shelter from the rain. It was miserable. I'm back there next season so I thought I'd invest in an enclosed ATV of the Gator/Kubota/Polaris persuasion. It'll be ideal for hedge laying and will also come in really handy for shooting and extracting coppice products. It'll earn its keep. Only trouble is, I can't afford a brand new John Deere. I'm on a budget, ideally under six grand if that's possible. So bearing in mind I'll be looking at something with a few hours under its belt, what would people recommend. What's good, what's reliable and what's not. Only proviso is it needs to be a pick-up style machine with a cargo deck for tools etc and it must have doors and a roof.
  10. I don't know. But a Hetas engineer can inspect and certify an existing liner. I'd get it checked, get a certificate and crack on.
  11. A HETAS engineer will probably sign the existing flue off with a camera inspection.
  12. I reckon a lot of builders/roofers who are asked to replace cowls when they're up there round a chimney stack anyway doing something else, use cheap and nasty ones from Screwfix or whatever they can find in Travis Perkins. I fitted a Screwfix one once as a subbie that the contractor had supplied and it was utter crap. Think it lasted about 12 months. The spot welds that attach the anchor straps to the cowl let go and the cowl ended up in the garden with the straps and the jubilee band still round the chimney pot. The mesh had already rusted out as well.
  13. The log burner in my mother's house has vitreous enamel pipe which runs through a poured in-situ pumice liner all the way up to the top of the stack. It has been been fitted with the sockets upside down because that's how the pipe they used happened to fit onto the spigot on top of the stove, so whoever fitted it continued with female-down all the way to the top. They should have started with male end down inside the spigot, and if that didn't fit use a double-ended female fitting to restore the flow to female-up before they got through the register plate (which they could easily have done because the stove sits in a huge inglenook and there's over six feet of stovepipe below the register plate). Leaks occur during heavy rain in summer when the fire is not lit. Some rain water inevitably blows in under the cowl, runs down the pipe and leeches out of the joints and puddles on top of the stove. I think the problem is made worse because vitreous enamel liners have a smooth surface which water can run down readily in a straight line. With flexi-liners rain water has to track around the helical ridges which slow the descent so much it would probably never reaches the bottom anyway.
  14. Error in my last post. If the OP is able to fit a 6" flexi liner inside his existing flue, he won't need a clay to metal adaptor. He can just go from stovepipe to flexi in the usual way.
  15. I was getting there. Had a sale lined up. Viewed a few properties in the Dalston area of Cumbria, and a couple in Dumfries, and then our buyer pulled out at the last minute and left me in the lurch so back to square one. Resolve is undiminished though. I will be heading there at some point in the near future.


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