Chrisdisco

Thanks for all your reply’s, I thought this would be a good place to start gathering information and find out what I need to know. So the idea I’m working on a completely separate gravity fed system. The stove itself is 5kw and the boiler is 1.8kw. I would like to try and get some of this heat upstairs. I was a bit concerned it might make the lounge colder with a back boiler fitted. Unfortunately the main bedroom is above the lounge where the wood burner is. Reading up on the internet, it advises not to put a hole through as the chance of room fire is higher in the lounge and smoke could go into the bedroom. I don’t know what people thoughts are on this of a smoke alarm was fitted?

Hi everyone I’m after some advice on how best to fit a back boiler to my wood burner. I have the correct back boiler for the stove and it’s rated at 1.8kw 6145 BTUs. I’m fairly certain I can’t connect it to my exiting heating system so I’m thinking of adding a small vented system fed by the stove. The questions I have are: 1. When sizing the system, should I be using the KW or BTU to size radiators? 2. Is it possible to fit without a pump? 3. Any drawbacks or things to watch out for? Many thanks

So I was talking to Lady that was running a course I was on about woodland. Turns that there is a community bought woodland 10 minutes up the road from me. She bought a share when it first started up 10 years. They thought the idea was great and decided to help out finically but never got involved with the running of the project. She has agreed to sell me her share (in a round about way), and I think this might be the prefect place to start. You can book out the woodland for use and contribute your time as much or as little as you want. There is a small optional contribution towards running costs but its not much. I do realise there are pros and cons (and probably that one awkward person that rubs everyone up the wrong way), but I thought it might be worth a go.

Thanks everyone for your comments and thoughts on this. I guess lotting companies are really the only option for small plots. I didn't realise that is was only 6 weeks before the land was yours. I had assumed it would take 3-4 months like buying a house. Does anyone have any recommendations for solicitors and what sort of prices they charge? I haven't actually found a plot yet but just getting my ducks in a row ready! I have only contacted a local company so far and they are quoting around £1300. Not sure if that's a good or bad price!

Hi Everyone I have been looking around for a few years now for a few acres of woodland to purchase. I realise that prices for everything seem to be silly at the moment. Doing a quick google, the highest average price seems to be £5,500 (probably for larger plots) according to forestresearch.gov.uk, but the prices I'm seeing are around £18,000 per acre for smaller plots! I do realise that companies buy large woodlands, split them and sell them off to make a profit. My question really is - Does anyone have any advice for buying woodland other than from these companies? The only thing can think of doing is dropping into local farmers, but not sure how well that would be received. Any advice or suggestion would be much appreciated! Many thanks

I'm by no means an expert but I did have saw once that has a similar issue. Turned out replacing the coil fixed it. It seemed that there was a break in the lead that tested fine when the plug was out, but wasn't connecting right when on the plug. Might be worth a go.

Perfect! Not sure why they don't supply this information with the meter. Thanks for your help

Hi Everyone This might sound like a silly question for those in the know! I have just purchased a replacement moisture meter after my original meter failed. This one has 4 modes and I'm trying to work out which mode I need for general firewood checking. The spec of meter is below and the modes seem to relate to the wood types. Can anyone help me out? Many thanks Chris Specificaitons: Wood type 1: 0%~24%, 0.10% Resolution Wood type 2: 0%~30%, 0.10% Resolution Wood type 3: 0%~37%, 0.10% Resolution Wood type 4: 0%~41%, 0.10% Resolution Other material A: 0%~6.8%, 0.10% Resolution Other material B: 0%~6.6%, 0.10% Resolution Other material ? 0%~6.0%, 0.10% Resolution Other material ? 0%~12.2%, 0.10% Resolution Precision: +/-2% Operation temperature: 0~40'C Operation humidity: 20%~90%RH Automatic power off time: About 10 minutes Length of probe: 9.8mm

Thanks spudulike! When I put the carb kit in I just copied the layout of the existing gaskets. It never occurred to me that somone had previous put them in the wrong order as it had been fiddled with. I found the workshop manual online and followed the instruction for the rebuild. Put it all back together and few pulls later, it started! Bit strange how it was running with the gaskets in the wrong order, but appears to be fine now! Thanks for your help everyone!

Thanks Glencarin, I have checked out a few videos on YouTube and I think I have it setup right to at least get it started but it doesn’t want to play ball. If I put the choke on and pull it a couple of times, it will make what I can only describe as a chuff noise back through the exhaust and out the decompressor valve. If I then take the choke off it will fire for a few seconds then die. I’m guessing I have messed up a setting in trying to fix the high end problem, but not sure what I have done.

Hi Everyone Bit of a newbie to chainsaw tuning so forgive me if I have missed something stupid. I bought a 385xp chainsaw which wasn’t running. I changed the coil and also fitted a carb kit and it started and ran fine. When I tried cutting some logs it bogged down and stalled. My guess is somone has messed with the carb screws? Looking around, it looks like I should set the L and H screws to 1 1/4 turns out but I’m not sure what I should do with the throttle screw. Could someone run through the best way to get this tuned correctly and what else I should check? Many thanks Chris