Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Hank

Member
  • Posts

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Andover
  • Occupation
    Carpenter

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Hank's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

  1. Does her landlord not take care of stuff like that??
  2. I didn't used to mind the initial work because the job almost always went ahead. I've started charging now though.
  3. Different industry here (timber frame carpentry) but one thing that has really stood out to me this year is the amount of ghosting going on from prospective clients. I've had plenty of people asking for quotes and drawings and such, which I usually just absorb into the final cost of the project, except this year all but one of those enquiries has ghosted me. Infuriating. Are tree companies experiencing anything similar? It's so rude!
  4. Thanks for all this guys. Interesting about the depth gauges, will give that a go. The bar and chain look ok. I filed the bar to get rid of the grooves and the chain moves freely through it. Incidentally should the chain be tensioned different for ripping than for crosscutting? The air filter is clean - haven’t put a new spark plug on yet but that was high on my list of things to do. My reason for thinking the saw is running ok is because it’s very responsive on the throttle and sounds good. I could be wrong tho... I’m not saying by any means that’s a foolproof test of whether a saw is good but I think it’s positive at least. I’ve yet to try a crosscut chain on it (don’t have one). Thanks again.
  5. Hi all. I recently picked up a Stihl MS660 running a 36” bar and ripping chain to go with a Granberg Alaskan Mill. So far I’ve run it through some unseasoned 14” oak and it hasn’t been performing particularly well. It seems to run out of steam at the slightest push into the log and generally struggles to get through the whole thing. Another thing, the planks I’m milling are only about 1.5m long and in that time it goes through about a tank of petrol. I know milling is fuel intensive but that seems quite a lot... The chain is sharp and the saw appears to be running well ... until I start milling. I’m also using wedges to avoid any pinching. Any help appreciated!!
  6. I put a chain around it where it started to lean and then a strap slightly higher up where it changed direction and then did a dogtooth cut at the base. I was aiming for it to fall just to the right of the two smaller trees in front of it and that's exactly where it went. Those dead limbs were quite deceiving as the trunk was still in good condition; that probably helped in keeping it a controlled fell with no nasty surprises.
  7. All's well that ends well. Thanks for the help.
  8. Thanks for all the replies. Quite frankly I'd love to dynamite this tree, that'd be brilliant.
  9. That's a good idea. I guess what I was asking in a roundabout way was whether I was right in thinking it'd be safer to cut from a few feet up where it straightens out, or whether to go from the base. Going from the base where it's twisted and bends makes it a bit more unpredictable imo, hence wanting someone else's thoughts!!
  10. It is yeah. Thanks for all the replies, appreciate it. The landowner isn't going to pay to get anyone in unfortunately and the tree is coming down regardless (I'd rather do away with the pens and leave the woods alone but that's another matter), so I figure better I do it with what experience I have rather than someone with no experience at all. A dog tooth is what I was planning with the aim of bringing it down just to the right of the tree in the last photo...
  11. Well yes I agree. I haven't done it yet and haven't decided whether I'm going to. But I still want to hear what others would do...
  12. A local 'keeper has asked if I can take down this tree as it's leaning over one of his pens. As you can see it's a bit all over the place so I'm looking for some input on the best way to approach it - I was going to start a few feet from the base where it straightens out.
  13. I was unaware you could get 3/8 in small spline! I actually contacted Rob at Chainsawbars about this who also advised me to get new drum as well as rim.
  14. I switched it back to .325 today. I thought you had to have a different sprocket to run the larger rim for 3/8 but the sprocket that came in the .325 kit is the same as the one that was running 3/8 so I'm stumped. Could have saved myself £20 and just got the .325 rim it seems!

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.