lurkalot

I use one of these Stihl ones, 5910 890 2420 Genuine Stihl 8mm Tee Spanner | Garden Hire Spares  Pretty cheap but seem to last very well.  

On 06/02/2021 at 06:12, Ds Tree services said:

Are you just putting a new engine in? if so do L&S sell them? Out of all the tools i use the blower was the las thing i though would go...lol

Haven't seen the short engines on L&S.  I was surprised to see it listed in the Stihl parts list, but I need to double check it was a BR600. I'll do this when I go into work tomorrow.  The price was a no brainer though compared to putting parts in it.   

Some say this fault is down to the nozzle waring and it putting excessive load on the engine making it run extra hot.  The one I have in the workshop has hardly been used.  It was seized absolutely solid and only because of the small end.  

3 hours ago, Ds Tree services said:

Yer spud you would normally have a needle bearing but this has a bush ? why maybe as its 4mix..??

Spoken to my local dealer and they are saying you need to buy the full new crank and con rod its £280 then £90 for the piston and £30 for the seals and other bits a new machine is £460... 

The only bit that failed was the top end bearing and the piston was slightley damaged. Looks like i will hafto keep an eye out on ebay..

Don't bother putting parts in it, the cost as you say is pretty horrendous, especially as Stihl do a whole replacement engine for them and at fraction of the cost.   I have one in at the moment which has done exactly the same thing as yours, a very badly seized small end.   

If the saw has a shouldered bar stud make sure it hasn't come unscrewed slightly, that will cause the bar to leak oil down the back of the bar instead of through the oil hole.

Blower 1: Also check the exhaust outlet isn't blocked, or a lump of carbon blocking the outlet.  It does happen believe me. 

Blower 2: What Spudulike said above.

Well while the carb is off, just remove the pump diaphragm cover, the one on the bottom held by one screw, and check the Diaphragm anyway.  

Common problem on these machines.  While it sits around, the gassing and changes in temp pushes the fuel slowly out of the tank via the pulse hole and fills the crankcase.  

Check the pump diaphragm, that's usually the cause of the flood on these, not the needle.  It'll probably have a line of tiny holes down one side, if you hold it up to the light.

On 18/06/2020 at 01:57, Macpherson said:

While I agree with you about the strong possibility of hydraulic lock, the soft start system is a very weak link in a soft chain and is best replaced with the earlier part......the spring in question is a useless complication imo

Absolutely agree with you..  At least I didn't say the starters were any good.   

16 hours ago, cryptogram said:

Lurkalot, I think there's more to it than that. When I first tried to start it this spring, the priming button would not pull fuel up. I had to take it apart an put fuel into the carb itself. When it eventually started I needed to pump the primer every few seconds and then it ran alright. And that's the position now. Is there a diaphragm that now has a hole in it?

Exactly why I'm saying the carb needs proper cleaning.  Did you leave any fuel in it from last season?   As I'm not 100% sure what carb you have on there, posting a pic would help.  I doubt it has a diaphragm though.   Usually primer on one of these would just push air into the float bowl, and that induced pressure pushes a small amount of fuel up the main jet for starting.   It's running far too lean which is why you have to keep priming until it warms up.   Cold engine needs more fuel to run than a warm one. 

Carb just needs a proper cleaning is the problem.  Give it a clean out and always use fresh fuel. 

14 hours ago, Hanz-on said:

Who beds a bar stud into plastic?

STIHL do.   MS-171 MS-181 to name two of them.  They tear out if overtightened, or will unscrew with the nut.  STIHL even do a oversized threaded stud to replace the ones that have ripped the thread out of the plastic engine housing. 

Pretty common fault on these, especially if the machines left on the back of a pickup truck and gets wet. the sleeves in the ends of the shoes rust and seize solid so the shoes won't move.   Press them out and clean and lubricate them..  And bolt it back together.  Word of warning, be carful removing the sleeves as it is possible to break the shoes etc if not supported properly.

Probably a daft question, but are you sure it's actually leaking oil, and not just draining off the back of the chain cover after use?  If it is leaking, it could be the breather valve behind the bar mount.

Or a genuine Chinese one from here,  https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/switch-shaft-for-stihl-ms170.html

Blocked exhaust perhaps.  Check muffler and exhaust port.

On ‎20‎/‎11‎/‎2014 at 19:17, GardenKit said:

A very common fault on these machines is that one of the 3 torx screws which hold the magneto mounting plate to the crankcase comes loose and unscrews until it locks the flywheel.

Yep they seem to have a big problem with those screws coming loose, and like you I've seen it many times.  Also had the screws on the other end inside the fan housing come loose as well, though it's not as common.

Wonder how it'll cope with a MS 200 with 6 inches of starter cord.   That's how most pro's use them, isn't it? 

Yep, change the springs, assuming the shoes are ok, and spring holes haven't worn right through the side of the shoe. P/N 0000 997 5515  and while your there check and perhaps change the needle bearing, P/N 9512 933 2270

Chain catcher, P/N 1129 656 7701

Smoke, have you given it a good run since you got it,  to get rid of residue oil from muffler.  No telling what oil it's been run on, and what was set up for.

Parts list, for reference, 

7 hours ago, Darkslider said:

I'll take the other one to bits when I've got more time I'm expecting to find the float sticking open or a worn needle perhaps, hopefully it'll be salvageable to keep as a spare.

I'll put money on it that it's not anything to do with the needle, or metering arm.   I would say it'll be the pump diaphragm, hold it up to the light and you'll see a line of tiny holes down one side. 

The amount of people that clean replace / needles only to find it still fails the pressure test, then as a last resort junk the carb, when all it needs is a pump diaphragm which if it has a hole in it will give the exact same symptoms.  Evident by putting your finger over the pulse hole at the front of carb when doing a pressure check.  

What happens here is the gassing fuel, changes in temperature etc cause pressure,  this pushes fuel through the pulse hole very slowly filling the crankcase. = Fooked ergo starter.

Thought it might be the reason, usually is. ;)  What was the reason for fitting a new carb though?

Trouble is, once that cushion spring has forced itself between the pulley parts, the groove for the brake spring enlarges, then you have a even bigger gap between those parts which causes it to fail even easier.  You can try shimming it out with an extra washer, or bung a whole new starter assy on it. 

They really shouldn't fit such a crap starter system on these machines, it's so badly made.

Apart from the fact it's badly made, loads of these fail due to a flooding carb.  Usually after the machine has been standing for a few hours, and then giving it a tug, not realising the engine has a partial hydraulic lockup.  If it spits fuel out of the exhaust after not being used for while you need to sort the carb out before going any further, because this will destroy those starters.

Mike, can you be a bit more specific. 

What make and model?  I'm assuming you mean the con rods?  What keeps rotating?

Photo of said parts if possible.

I see the Stihl name and the pretty colours got you.   Nice job on your balls though,

Strangely enough I just spotted another one.  If only they'd followed the little diagram near the nose of the bar.

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