lux

Ive got some large bits of spalted beech I was going to sell as turning blanks. Currently in large rounds some are 3ft across. Gave some to a mate for turning and have a pile left to sell. Based Haslemere on the Surrey / West Sussex border. Prob too far for you but can load this end with a machine onto trailer etc. If you want pictures of any of it let me know.

Anyone got knowledge of sourcing a new hydraulic pump for a Danequip / dosko stump grinder? Spoke to Danequip today and the replacement pump was eye wateringly expensive. Thought Id see if anyone knew what pump it is or if they have sourced a replacement before I get around to picking it up with the forklift to look for part numbers etc Cheers

What do you want it to do / use it for? There's a big difference between having a commercial body version and a car like version. New defender comes in both formats too as well I think Is it a personal purchase or one through the company If its a business purchase just get the commercial one , reclaim the VAT and I really don't think it will matter which of them you buy, they will all be good cars. I struggle to see the point of the commercial bodied ones tbh. better off with a decent pickup.

I could drive around fine thanks. I seem to remember cruising past your stuck ranger then driving around the bit you got your avant stuck in trying to tow you out without getting stuck … I’d say they are pretty good tyres 😉😂 and yes the Eder winch is a fine thing. Was using it on Friday winch out some decent sized windblown in the woods. Very handy tool.

If you reshape it , heat it with the oxy torch very localised to the 'mushroomed' area. Introducing any colours that spread could do more harm than good. Quenching after heat will harden it but its a striking tool so you will want to temper it as well. Probably 2-3 cycles of tempering. If you dont know what colours you are looking for at the quenching stage take it to non magnetic and you will be in the ball park. Personally I would just leave the deformation, if its on the original handle still, the head is part of the story / history of it.

Running Maxis Bighorn M/T currently. Pleased with them so far and very good value. Noisy on the road as you would expect but give more wet rd grip than my BFG KO2 A/T did. I think I will buy a second set of wheels and run AT again for the spring and summer .... if it ever comes ..

Didn’t look for a specific size but these guys stock hickory. Try them.

Camberley is a bit far from both me and also the job but had a look anyway. Seems they just have normal chippers for hire. The hunt continues

Its already delayed because of the imposed restriction, was hoping to do it one day week commencing 18th

Hire request for a narrow access job I have a job in Cobham. Out of area for me but a nice days work in pocket of council woodlands in the town centre. Conservation area job, permissions have been granted but with some restrictions around access / waste removal.(Original plan was for habitat piles but council have forbidden that) The woods is completely encircled by other properties, chip can be sprayed in the woods but my chipper is too big to get in there. I have had no joy with hire companies on finding anything narrow access that will still chip 4 inch branches. Anything bigger I will remove as logs. Does anyone in that area have a CS100 or other decent narrow access chipper that will cope with chipping up to 4 inch branches. Happy to hire just the chipper or with operator if that suits you better. Thanks in advance

I think that’s a good idea mate. It’s one of those things that until you’ve done them you have no idea what a pain they can be. Oak in particular can really bite you Bigbeech has a nice little kiln set up down the rd. you could send your customer to him to dry the board. I’d imagine 3 weeks or so in the kiln. He’s a good bloke and knows his onions.

Are they going indoors ??? Bolting them when green won't stop them moving, they will snap and pull bolts or the treads will split. They will twist steel plate when they move as well. its quite phenomenal what green oak will move as it settles. Budget for some thicknesses blades. my treads rinsed through the blades. He will be looking at reducing them in thickness by 20 to 30 percent to get them flat when dried. do it evenly from both sides so the amount of material removed from either side is the same , they will likely move again if not as the moisture will pull out of the board at an uneven rate on either side. Like I said earlier, I started at 75mm to achieve a finish of 50mm when dried. that was only just possible on a couple of the treads by a whisker.. Here's the staircase we built in my (still ongoing) self build. The treads have stainless rods internally that cantilever into the wall. I milled that oak 6 years prior and during the thicknessing process it still 'released' and moved more. The treads are 1000mm wide, I think the going was 285mm.

I agree, that board is going to move a lot and it won't be uniform in its movement either because of the features in it. Its got great potential but there's a huge amount of work in that board to resemble anything vaguely finished. Green boards like that I just mill my own and dry them, I only buy dry timber so that's the only pricing I have to go by. My own milled boards I just keep for myself. They are bloody expensive now even when only air dried but sometimes I just dont have what I need milled or dried. If they have been kilned or twice kilned to get the moisture right for furniture etc they cost an arm and a leg at our local mills