Stumpy Grinder

Saw this last week in Bildeston Suffolk.  A sizeable fig tree which just appears out of a brick wall!

nothing on the other side of the wall either! You can see some roots going down around the bricks but no damage to the wall. Weird!?

So........ I already have a Fiskars X27 which is a dream to use, but my attention has now been drawn to a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe which looks very nice and traditional, although considerably more expensive. Has anyone used both and can give comparison? I don't mind paying more and would happily own both as I like nice things! Which is best and why?

SG

6 hours ago, dan494 said:

no problem, but wont be with the machine until Thursday now

I've got a 20 and a 25 and they both have a handbrake!

1 hour ago, mikecotterill said:

How do you check the oil ? Mine doesn’t have a handbrake so definitely isn’t that

Well it should have a handbrake!? Even if the lever is missing, you may well find the disc and pads are still fitted and may well be seized.

It should go faster forwards than backwards! Sounds almost like your hydrostatic drive has been reversed? It shouldn't really require much maintenance from factory setting other than ensuring the fluid level is correct and the drive belt is tight.

One other thing that might cause this is the handbrake! They have a tendency to seize 'on' and could be the reason why it is worse when the machine is warm as it will expand further.  Strip the disc brake down and lube the control cable and it may well fix it.

SG

1 minute ago, Steve Bullman said:

Wheres that?

Bodrum market in Turkey. I was there last week.

Slightly weird!?

How about this big old Euch?

probably a good 9’ diameter at the base. 

I can't believe you need a poll to work out where most Arborists get their firewood from?

5 hours ago, aspenarb said:

 

Its 13hp and the same weight bar a few kg as the rayco  RG13 ,   there is an old willow stump in the yard so I will bounce it off that tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

Bob

Willow is a test for any machine! Give the poor thing a chance!

I think willow and silver birch are two of my least favourite types to grind. Very fibrous and require sharp teeth!

Worst one ever was a Holme Oak which was absolutely massive and had to be taken out completely! I've never seen so much wood underground.

Interested to see how this goes. Doesn't look heavy enough to me and will probably bounce off a decent stump. Certainly cheap though and will go through a 2' 6" gate. Hope it works out for you and look forward to hearing your review!

SG

44 minutes ago, stihlmadasever said:

Pardon my french but the pm is fucking this right up.

Brexit is officially a bloody shambles

Wheres matelot?

What did people expect when they put a 'remainer' in charge of leaving?

Boris may be as mad as a bag of weasels at times, but at least he would have slammed the door in their face! Stop trying to do deals and take a firm stance. We are leaving and that's it! They need us more than we need them - they wouldn't give a flying F*** about us leaving else. Do what the people voted for, and if you can't (or won't! ), then step aside and make way for someone that can!

Even Mr Trump can see the way forward!

3 hours ago, Haironyourchest said:

Where did you buy your blade? I have a consaw already, would like one.

Got mine from Fisher Direct who seem to have them on offer but are currently out of stock!

http://www.fisher-direct.co.uk/product/terrasaur-rail-sleeper-tree-stump-grinding-grinder-cutting-blade-300mm-12/

SG

7 hours ago, Haironyourchest said:

Not really a stump grinder but just throwing this out there. Would be grand for wee stumps 

 

I have one and it is great for finishing off in a tight corner or up tight to a path or similar.

But, where this tool comes into its own is with lateral roots such as cherry which track along the surface of a prized lawn. Rather than trash the lawn with a grinder, Simply cut the root every 30cm with the terrasaur and just lever them out with a bar or a mattock. Minimal work and disturbance that can be rectified by brushing a bit of topsoil into.

They are also great when you hit metal within a stump which is all too often! Cut it out with a disc cutter and you will save valuable stump grinder teeth!

SG

There’s a lot more to it than pure economics. The smell is very homely and I tend to sit in front of it for hours if I can get in front of the cats and dogs! Then there’s the reliability. If we lose electricity then my combi boiler is also out! I can heat my house and even boil a kettle or cook on top of my wood burner. It has a wide window and I can just sit and watch the flames which to me are more interesting than most of the shite on TV. Not sure how long it will take to recover cost of installation, but I wouldn’t be without it ! ???

That’s not good news mate. I can lend you some saws if you need some. I’m in Suffolk. SG

I had a wood burner fitted before last winter and it got a lot of use. When I submitted my gas meter readings recently with Scottish Power, it showed my last year usage compared to this year on a graph. The previous year had a big peak, but this year the peak was gone and just a constant line which I assume is just normal cooking and hot water. So yes, a big difference on what was effectively a much colder winter too.

As a stump grinder, there are generally lots of trees just been cut down when I arrive so I am never short of free firewood!

SG

Clearly not enough as my last 4 customers all paid me more than I asked for!

SG

13 hours ago, Treelife90 said:

Dear all,

 

Thank you for the quality responses, very useful and insightful.

 

Can anyone reccomend an ideal first timer grinder to invest in? 

 

Cheers!! 

If you are going to get one, then you may as well get something that is actually capable!

It needs to be ideally less than 3 feet wide to get through the average garden gate. Preferably over20hp and definitely self-propelled!

14 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

For the last couple of years I've used a Jack.
He's really big and strong and loves nothing more than digging a trench around a stump before axing roots and using a long bar to rip it out of hole.
All with a sweaty smile
He's done a 3' stump in about 2-3 hours.
Should really buy a stump grinder though.

Trouble with that is you've lost a groundie for a few hours and probably broken him for the rest of the day! You are also then left with a large hole to fill, along with a huge stump to get rid of. Difficult to lift, can't cut it up or chip it and it won't burn. Whereas I could have turned it into wood chip in about 10-15 minutes and raked it over - job done!

43 minutes ago, jamallio96 said:

Try dead fluffy gorse, a whiff of a flame and that stuff goes up lovely!

I've heard that dry moorland heather burns quite well?

9 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Firefighters and bits of pallets/fencing etc.

Firefighters?!

Sacre Bleu!

The contents of my recycling bin are a lot more during the summer months than the winter! I use any cardboard packaging and paper along with normal kindling. I've read that some petroleum based firelighters can help to bung up a relatively cold flue? My mate swears by his plumbers gas torch to get it going prior to closing the door!

I also keep some thinly cut very dry soft wood to get the heat up before putting bigger hardwood stuff in.

SG

12 minutes ago, kevinjohnsonmbe said:

All good tips so far! 

 

I’d add, FWIW, a tirfor can sometimes be a very useful, and sometimes over looked option. 

 

Recently had a row of hedge stumps to remove (and another similar but larger scale job coming along) 

 

They are small diameter (<150mm ish) using one to pull the next in the row allows both to be loosened / pulled out at the same time. Appreciate this is only smaller dia stuff, but it was quicker & easier than grinding. 

 

Not a a big fan of grinding but will offer the ‘up-sale’ and do it if required. Priced to reflect the mundane / potential risks associated with this work. 

This works best if you cut them off quite high. Use the winch between the top of one to the bottom of the next one. The extra leverage on the one secured at the top will pull it over enough to cut the roots with a mattock or similar. It's ok until you get to the last one though! A high lift jack (the sort that off-roaders use) can also be used to effectively pull them out vertically. Trees such as conifers are strong laterally, but rely on gravity to hold them down. Pull them upwards and they will give if you can pull hard enough!

Seeing myself out of a job here!

SG

9 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

I bought a grinder as soon as I could afford one, never regret it.

 

It’s important to sell the grinding when you quote the tree or after the tree has just been felled/removed. A lot of peeps don’t consider it until it’s mentioned.

I think it can also give you an advantage if you are able to quote for the entire job. I have a good working relationship with several guys that know roughly what I'd charge and will quote on my behalf within their own quote. I trust them to do this and they then effectively tell me how much I'm getting for the job! It usually works out in my favour with them invariably quoting more than I would have in the first instance!SG