huskywilson

my pal was shocked by it , he has several huskys he has 346/357/ 268/ 550 and 395 , he was blocking up big elm with a 24 inch bar on the BB hutzl and was grinning , i want one ,i want one

ah forgot some random things , i got the 272 piston from Huztl but chose not to use the black chinese rings , they might be fine as they are getting better but chose different , so used a single caber ring from a shop in greece , dandikrop is his ebay shop to same dealer site , you can get the husky single 52mm x1.5mm if you have a local dealer the muffler is totally open inside but is normal sized oulet tube , so you can weld in another tube or cut a slight slice on opposite side and open it up as its loud anyway with open muffler a 385 muffler is open inside too (jungle one) and has a large top exit , and will fit perfect they are only OEM but are nice

its not 3lb heavier , someone on some sight had both saws on a digital scale with no bar , no oil or fuel and the husky was 1lb 2 oz heavier which is significant fair enough but is the stihl chassis strong enough as its lighter structurally ? i have a 562 and a 572 and it is heavier , i did weigh the 562 with a 20 inch bar and the 572 with a 24 inch bar and was 2lb heavier i think and both had no fuel or oil as i drained them , but am not home now so will need to check it again and take photos to show on here

best bet is OEM crank seals which are expensive , but i decided , bugger it i,ll leave it and see how it goes ,flywheel is a tad weird , the crank has a keyway and woodruff key in the kit but the flywheel doesnt have a slot it has a tiny bump which will locare in the crank keyway but its real puny , so i torqued it to 24ftlb which is high but probably safer to pull on starting as its got real high compression now , i fitted a decomp blanking plug as ditched the decomp as they will maybe fail while running but was real hard to pull over so fitted a OEM one i had as on smaller saws i remove them so was a handy thing , so after build, did a pressure and vac test on it and turned the crank around and no loss its not had much used so far but its a ripper really BB kit 272 piston modded by machine 40 thou off the top to 8mm in to assist the transfer timing and raise comp , base gasket delete and used 1184 , slight woods port and and several other mods did , did get the oem o ring on clutch side and had to cut 1 coil off the brake spring as was real hard to pull on so might fracture something , anti vibe spring didnt line up well with handle so lengthened the slot a bit and as its not true flat on the base of the spring to cyl so its out of line so spun it to correct position so its quite close , if you do it random, look from the rear at the gaps between the fuel tank and chassis and you will see it real high on the clutch side Maybe OEM one is better . the air filter is a touch loose on the carb so applied thick grease to seal it , after about 20 cookies it was clean inside , the carb was a bit of messing about to set it up wandering about again , would surge at idle and sometime out of a cut it stalled right away so upped the idle a bit and then it was ok then did same agin , so thought it might have been a air leak so swapped to another carb i had from Huztl and 2 little tweeks and it was fine no issues check the dowel pins in the cases , one is solid and the other is hollow in location so if you fit the solid one in a dowel hole where a bolt goes , that will be a issue , also the plastic base plate under thecarb has to be ground/filed out a bit as it on the throttle cable side LH looking from rear , it contacts the carb intake boot so sort out that so clearance is done there is no tubes to fit in the carb body so its a bit sloppy so i made ones luckily from some thin plastic pipe i had but was thick spun it slowly on my bench grinder reduce diameter to fit in the carb body spring on oil pump setting screw is crap as its designed wrong as it sticks up so i took it off thinking it was on wrong and messed about and it on the oil pump but it can only fit one way so contact sticks up and contacts the clutch drum and as spins and unhooks it so fit an OEM spring to oil pump adjuster too thats about all i remember now other than there are sometimes a few more screws in bags than are for each part of build so think they are to be fitted somewhere but is an odd one here and there i have 4 spare screws and a clip was spare

must be the wrong seals , some husky saws have bigger bearings and cranks on the PTO , the one i built had black seals installed , on the huztl site there are different seals , someone must have installed the wrong ones on a batch possibly for some stihl or other husky

Hi guys I,m modding a 372 so plan to fit preferable the big tillison possibly walbro carb which is not so reliable apparently off 385 /390 anyhow , lots of mods done saw and is a bit of a ripper as 52mm BB kit high pop up modded 272 piston, woods porting, base gasket delete , modded muffler but has stock carb , seen lots of things on the web and a big mod is the 385/390 ,carb upgrade with 385 intake boot and 372XT choke lever and intake , as space is tight but fits , then divider removed so will be a ripper ...anyhow anyone on her have a used or tired 385/390 carb to sell to me from a dead /damaged/scrap saw as the carbs are real expensive brand new , i have a 385 so would possibly test fit it ,but would have to pull the cyl off to get the intake boot and throttle cable support off so would rather get a carb from anyone on here ,as one PM me if anyone has one , thanks

I think its a 3/16 AF imperial allen wrench needed , think its its a coarse pitch thread which is why its imperial /SAE/AF hex head i did take my pals 268 apart a couple of years ago 5mm didnt fit and the 4 was way loose , so went to toolbox and the imperial ones fitted but may be wrong as i did tear apart a lot of saws and think it was that one that was oddball size , , i,m not home now so cant know the one i used, but pretty sure is a 3/16

Got it built now , used a 272xp single ring piston piston which is 40 thou taller to increase the compression so removed a bit off the top to get transfer timing closer , and did a bit of woods porting on the BB cyl, ground away some of the transfers to be flush with case for better flow and , the 272 piston is windowed and 22 grm lighter than the 372 one built it and did pressure and vac test for 10 mins solid , turned the crank a few times to see any difference but none installed a 52 x1.5mm caber ring as they are better by miles , took a bit of playing around with the carb to get it running good for the bed in, 4 stroking at 12600 and 40:1 oil mix with full ester Ipone Samouri synth racing 2 stroke oil , which has the about highest VI at 100deg C ( use it in all my saws now ), no smoke and smells like srawberrys lol , took down a 24 inch dead pine and blocked it all up runs sweet in the cut , had to adjust the idle and low setting a bit as now and again it would stall out of a cut , took out the plug and is a tan colour so good so far , have video of it but file is too big to upload but so far it runs ok

the normal ones are big enough on mine but would be cool too with the west coast ones ?

i will do the pressure and vac test as i have the tool to do it but the cylinder will be decked 30thou and a little tweek here and there so thats not done yet , i,m away from home now so have to get it done when home again , google hutzl.net https://www.huztl.net and you will get it easy , it was about £100 with the 60% discount , with shipping its about 160 i think , i just looked it up and its now £126 but discount comes and goes regular i did get other stuff like the BB kit and some other spare parts so its the weight all in so will be around that just with the kit

yip copy of the old 372 xp , lots of them have been done , the old hutzl ones a few years ago had a few issues but these have been improved a lot , but still a tiny niggle here and there , like a o ring missing on clutch side behind oil pumpon crank , not enough squish on cylinder , intake boot is a tad too long so tough to fit in the seperator , but mine was fine ,has possibly not the best main bearings but are steel cage but are better than older hutzl ones that had issues , maybe the crank seals are not the best but some have been fine , so i,m building it right out of the box to test it out to see any issues look on Afleetcommand on utube or Mattyo also they build them , lots of vids on utube of them used and abused , seems ok for a laugh , but its actually pretty good so far assembly and fun to build

fun build from Hutzl , 60% discount and some shipping costs etc , but is a good thing actually ,see how it goes , 52 MM BB cyl kit for £20 , some minor things tweeked but nothing really , have caber rings for it as i,m not too happy with the chinese ones , some are ok and others have had issues form other builders but see how it goes ?

yeah i,ll contact them as its not right what they did , but maybe not totally their fault , prob did not think about it as it was maybe aspare one so a sales person put it on their site , i,ll find out but would be good to have it to check my saws regular ,i,m a bit of a geek lol

well its not a huge issue as would be nice to have that tool , i seen them over the pond with the CD a few years on the go and were real expensive and only had 1 outotune so never bothered with it so now i have 3 and friends have them too so randomly googled it and it came up and was new sealed box for sale so bought it out of the blue and now the S....t hit the fan lol

yes i think your correct , maybe they didnt realise it tho , probably didnt comprehend the fact that no upload is available from a person , only a dealer , i might talk to my closest one which i get a lot of parts from , so he might just put the general software onto a memory stick so it goes onto mine , , but i think he might not agree as if there is his id code or whatever on the software he might not let me get it , not that i would sent it to anywhere else as i must be the only one ever to buy the diagnostic tool by mistake which is likely their mistake too

yeah , i did like the WDS better than IDS , could do computer compression tests( cyllinder balance ) plugged into the ECU lol, rather than pulling plugs if a cylinder was weak , the crank rotation speeded up on that cylinder relating to CPS so you got a bar graph after 10 secs of cranking and lots of other stuff on the live data..... then the IDS was way more complicated and a lot of the easier stuff was removed , but hey ho progress

yeah i might do but the place i got it from is a long way away , my local guy might put it onto a memory stick and add it to my computer , no cheating on my behalf as i cant get software updates really ,its just for checking the saws , i partially made a mistak i suppose as i expected it had a CD as that was previously seen on ebay a while ago

haha i was a ford master tech so was used to all the stuff used the FD200O diagnostics then the WDS then the IDS everything was getting to be real challenge , still remember most the ECU pin numbers on the EEC IV 60 pin AND V ECU 104 pin and the cosworth weber marelli ecu 35 pin lol .

i have 3 and my pal has 2 autotunes and another guy has 3 so its just a heads up for me to give checks now and again to see any issues and check use and numbers / hrs , idle flat out etc and a reset to see if codes appear again if any are there , i have a local dealer but get charged for it did have minor error codes on both so reset so want to see if things appear again , so over a year or two it will have paid its self off , and will save a lot of time with them , i do pull saws apart a lot and repair and modify , so if its electronic stuff , yip your correct , but mechanical is fine

i know i,m pissed off about it now , presumed it had a CD as just for checks and any error codes to see , , will have to ask that supplier about it and send it back , no reply from husqvarna either !

I bought the new husqvarna CST from a garden machinery place just to check up un my autotune saws and my pals ones for settings /use and codes etc but it didnt come with the CD , so must be a newer version and has the quick guide sheet for upload and install stuff from the husqvarna support site so have to log in and follow on with the info but i,m not a dealer so i cant do it , messaged Husqvarna but no reply yet , anyone on here not a dealer have one of these tools that has sorted it out ?

if you try a unused 0.50 in another unused bar measure the rock side to side from a cutter tip it wont be much movement then and put the chain in the sugi bar and measure it , if its rocking more it must be 0.58 them as all sugi vh2u bars are shown as 0.58 on the site so hes probably bluffing it on the phone , bring it up with him again and say to him ....right get a 058 chain and see if it fits in the 050 sugi bar listed , if he has to press it in with hand it wont be able to move in the bar if it falls in and spins easily , its wrong somehow so will be 058

might just be bar wear digital calipers are so random with the tips in a groove as the tips have a taper towards the end so cant go in very far in the rail so feeler gauges might be better as thay will go from 4 thou to 40 usually so put 2 in togethger say a 26 and 24 which are not floppy so nice ant tight , or whatever the gap is , not hard to figure out if you have feeler gauges . , could not find that last code anywhere , even on google , maybe mail sugihara and post a photo of that bar with the code and see if they reply

no worries, hopefully its resolved soon by you

ah mistake we have 1 stihl i my area and my brother in law has a husky dealeship in his company so there we go ?, bit like chevys and fords and audi and bmw ?