UK Guy

Long shot as it's not really Arb related but does anyone know where I can get a

Hayter T424 (5 gang) commercial mower workshop manual.

Mine is a 06 but they are all similar I think.

I purchased one end of last season and slowly restored it (didn't need much as it was very clean) but had loads of silly faults which were easily sorted, but would be good going forward if I can get the WORKSHOP manual.

I have tried Hayter (who are owned now by Toro) and their commercial agents but they tell me they can't supply one as I'm not a dealer..!

I already have the user manual and parts manuals but it's the Workshop (service) manual I'm after.

It's truly a phonominal machine, so will be keeping this one long term.

I got one of these and use Kerosine as the light fluid, used it a fair bit and so far it's been good.

The best thing you can get for a grease gun is a G Coupler

I've tried posting the links from Amazon but not working so just do a search on Amazon.co.uk for:

G.COUPLER + G.SPARES Kit - ⅛" NPT Grease Gun

And for the nipple cleaner search for this on Amazon.co.uk

Draper 16155 grease nipple unblocker

Hope this helps

UK Guy

These are great but there is a common issue which might catch you out when you really need it (I speak of experience!).... If you use it heavily to pump say 4 big off road tyres without letting it cool In between it will pop the curly plastic air tube as it gets very hot by the first connector then plastic curly tube blows a nice neat hole in it right by the connector, it's an easy fix, just cut it out and reconnect but a pain if you need it..!

It's the only common gripe with these.

Not sure if they have upgraded this curly as mine is over 2 years old! So you may be ok.

I'm also looking for 10ish acres in Staffordshire ...!

The fuel line will probably not be the issue unless it was split before you changed to Aspen. The fuel line often hardens once pump petrol is taken from it and then it leaks around the area it pushes in to the fuel tank and that is why they are often changed.

 

I believe that this carb has a weird single screw idle adjustment only and works by bypassing the throttle valve with a bleed screw.

 

If this is so then it needs to be turned anti clockwise until it beds and then turn two turns in (Clockwise) and the saw should run OK on this. If the carb is different then let us know. The fact both give the same symptoms sort of rules out the carb.

 

Has the saw got good compression, have you popped the muffler off to check the piston through the exhaust port? A lower idle than normal may be attributed to a bit of drag on the clutch/needle bearing, worth whipping it off and giving it a clean and see if that makes a difference.

 

The fact the saw has only done 20 tanks sort of rules out that the seals etc have gone or the saw is just worn out!

 

The fact that pointing the saw downward improves the saw looks like it may be the fuel pickup so check the fuel line/filter position and worth pressure testing the fuel line (can be done without removing).

 

If you get he saw idling on the deck, does pulling the rear handle to and from the engine cause the engine note to rise and fall? If it does, perhaps the manifold is holed.

 

When you removed the first carb, did you replace that little plastic ring that stops the manifold collapsing and restricts the impulse line a little? Common for these to go missing

I pressure and vacuum tested the saw today, pressure was perfect but had a very very slow leak down on vacuum.

The fuel pipes were perfect (held pressure on test) and no scores on the piston (looks like new!)

I took the side off and it was apparent that the intake rubber tube where it meets the engine was the culprit. I could see sooty oily deposit buildup (not a lot) around the intake pipe where it meets the engine.

I give it a good clean with break cleaner and pushed it tight on the engine. Vacuume test passed...!

So I need to change this intake boot (the saw now tuned up perfect and I managed to retune to 2800 rpm and runs sweet)

The carb is the one with only Tickover screw by the way.

I did try putting pressure on the back handle to see if this affected it again but it ran spot on perfect.

Question.... What's the procedure of changing the intake manifold pipe, do I need to take the engine out? Any help on how to strip it down appreciated.

I will get a new intake manifold pipe and plastic rings ordered... Where would you recommend I can buy thiese from (Stihl original).

Thanks for the advice

UK Guy

Spud

I had the issue of low tickover as soon as I first started the saw up with Aspens (I emptied the Petrol mix then run it dry and then filled with Aspens and started it).

I will have to take a quick look to see if that plastic ring is still there (you never know I may have lost it when I pulled the carb).

The needle bearing - I have just had a few of those delivered (OEM) which I was going to change (as Ive never greased it in 7 years!) - and after reading ARBTALK I see its a common issue on the new MS261cm so ordered a few for both saws I have.

I will have a look over the weekend and let you know what I find.

P.S I will do a pressure test on the fuel lines and check piston compression over the weekend (with my new tools! )

Thanks

UK Guy

Guys,

Got to say this tread is a wealth of knowledge and Im sure its an inspiration to a lot of us. Spud & GardenKit, your input and the help you give to the forum is second to none and personally I think an ARBtalk award of greatness should be presented to you guys. I have started reading this thread from the start (nightly read before bed..... sad I know) ..... have found the excuse of buying shed loads of tools 'just in case' I need them

Im no pro mechanic but have always serviced my growing list of engine driven 'tools (2T & 4S)'..... now I could open a service shop with the tools I have purchased!

Anyway, with all this wealth of experience and advise, together with our resident Aspens preacher Mr GardenKit I can not ignore his experience and expertise in these matters of keeping your kit in tip top shape so I dived in and converted to Aspens for all my 2S kit (for starters!)

Aspens seems to run great in all my Stihl equipment apart from my little 7 year old lightly used (apx 20 tanks) MS170 which seems to struggle to tickover reliably. I have tweaked the tickover Screw and set it on 2800rpm (it tops out at apx 13500-14000 and is very responsive) .... read with that tach I bought after reading Arbtalk...!

The next time I go to use it a few days later it wont tick over well and measure it at around 2k rpm which is low. I tried changing the Carb (OEM) (they are cheap for these saws), and it seemed to fix the issue, but next time I used it it was low on tickover again.

What I have found is if I hold the saw with its bar pointing up or down, it seems to tick over better, not perfect but better.

Now - The tickover screw does not seem to do anything, screw it all the way in makes no difference - it does not seem to affect the tickover much (thats on both carbs, so not the carb).

With Premium fuel + Stihl HP mix, I did not notice an issue with this saw. I have read on this forum somewhere that with old kit you should replace the fuel lines before using Aspens which I have not done yet.

I have NOT put Petrol mix back in to see if its OK with that (which is one thing I will try), but is there anything you guys can advise I should try.... is this a common issue with old chainsaws and Aspens.

Thanks in advance.

UK Guy

Tommy

That is truly stunning work. its fascinating to think you have done that with a chainsaw.

That's a true talent you have, well done.

Now........ I want one!!!

It probably is a good thing to do but I'm not one for additive. If you use a good 2 stroke oil this 'should' have all what's needed already. I'm no scientist but wouldn't want to add anything into my 'working fuel' apart from 2 stroke oil.

For storage though it does make sense.

Thanks for all the replies.

Very interesting as reading all the different methods people use and haven't had issues, my thoughts now are DOES IT REALLY MATTER.

Aspens, additional fuel additives....mmmm not sure if it will make that much of a difference

if you start with premium fresh fuel and just start and run the saw (after a good shake) a few times over the winter which I have always done, then dump the fuel and add fresh before using again.

By brimming the tank it should keep any condensation thus water out of the equation which has so far worked for me.

So my consensus on this subject will be 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' so whatever works for you is the best way.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

I've always left my saws full to the brim with fresh premium fuel mix with stihl ultra mix over the winter months when not used.

I have read that stihl recommend to run the saw dry before storing but surely that would cause whatever's left to dry!

I've had a ms170 for 8 years with no issues but I've also purchased a ms261c (which has been a great saw) and just wondering what is best - empty or Full.

What do you guys and girls do?

Try a wood grenade..

 

At least if you get shrapnel in your leg again you can say it's from an exploding grenade.

 

Sounds more hardcore.

:rofl:

Class......

The woodchuck arrived and it's a great help. It's very 'grippy' in the wood and stable. It came with a chain and an extra longer 'mud foot' to make it even more stable if needed. I haven't tried it on the mega long stuff yet

(Next time I at the wood) but works great on the stuff I've tried it on 18" 20ft long.

I've tried to get some photos up but for some reason I'm struggling with my iPhone crashing!

Again, that's a lot for the advise guys...

P.s I've now had 5 tanks through the ms261c-bm and I can't believe how powerful this saw is. The .325 chain stays sharp forever..! It's still razor sharp and that's working with dirty logs. I've just give it a couple of strokes before I put it away, as I'm used to sharpening the ms170 every tank or 2 !

I find it hard to believe that they are hated so much on here. I'd love to have a go on a saw which is 'better' than the ms261c for the same cc's. !!

Thanks for the replies Guys

I've ordered the woodchuck quad, hopefully best of all worlds with its multiple uses.

Will see when it arrives

Thanks again

UK Guy

Yes... Those images are what I'm after doing.

The American woodchuck quad is what I have looking at and also the Clarke one.

I will see if I can find more info on them. Thanks

Thanks guys...

No I'm never alone and 99% of the wood i harvest is already down. The wood itself has not been touched for 20+ years so there is a massive amount on the ground and a lot of it ash and quite fresh.

Some of the bigger stuff has been felled by pro's recently (clean up job around the resident log cabin) which is the reason I'm after a log Jack.

Thanks

Hi,

Just a quick intro. I have a few log burners in my house and burn a few loads yearly. I own an MS170 (8 years) and recently purchased an ms261 b-cm which is a super saw. I've been used to the ms170 so the ms261 feels like a mega machine! Both have been faultless to date (touch wood!!). Reading arbtalk I get the jist that the ms261 it's the most hated saw going...! Be gentle with me.

I have access to a large private wood so I like to cut and split my own.

I have recently been looking for a log jacking device so I can lift the log off the ground whilst I cut the log (25" max but most under 20") and Google pointed me at arbtalk.co.uk and since finding you I've been hooked...! Not sure why as I'm not really into chainsaws etc !

I do like reading the tuning stories and opinions of some of the colourful characters on here, which make great reading.... I think I should stop NOW!

Anyway... Please advise what you guys recommend for a tree jack.

I've seen some American ones & British (one of the sponsors of arbtalk)

Which one is best??

P.s I like to buy once so I buy the best I can so not really worried about a few quid difference. Thanks

UK Guy