Fredward

Just wondering if you know of any machines in NZ/Australia?

I guess if the springs are the only thing changing the position I should probably start with replacing those. Maybe they aren't in as good shape as I originally thought.

The rubber boot joins the flywheel air injection to the air box, the manifold isn't safety critical and is unlikely to impact the performance of the saw. If it worries you, just change it but you are unlikely to notice any difference in performance or have any safety implications.
The other bit....it just locates the exhaust cover and is the AV movement limiter....yours looks to be at the bottom of it's limit and it should sit in the middle, something looks to be pushing the handle upwards.

The saw it probably 3 years old now, generally been pretty good.

Does the rear boot not play an important job?

Anyone think of a reason why the handle section isn't staying where it is supposed to? I.e in the first photo those two parts separate with little force.

Struggling to upload photos (must be getting old).

First photo, should there be a rubber insert here?!

Second photo, right at the top. The triangular peice appears to have been damaged?

Hey crew. I'm having issues with the AV mounts for the handle (I presume) which is meaning the top handle moves easily enough that the carb boots keeps becoming disconnected. The little black tab on the right rear of the saw doesn't stay in the opposing ring behind the exhaust cover. It feels as though something is pulling the top handle section to the wrong side. 

Also, a secondary problem.. The starter cover has a screw with a brass insert into plastic, this insert has pulled out. I'm guessing I could glue it back in as a temporary fix or find a larger insert.

Inside of the starter cover there is a black peice which traps the 'slide in' rear boot, this peice appears to have been broken slightly, is it supposed to create an airtight seal on the boot? 

That's interesting, I don't think I can attribute mine to that, it happens near the chipper or even when someone scrapes a shovel on concrete!

Cheers, it is on my list, I'll make sure I do it before next week! 

Hey there, 

I recently upgraded from my old SMH10 to the 10S, one of the crew already had a 10S and really liked it. 

I found almost instantly that there was a really nasty high pitched noise whenever we worked around the louder equipment. The kind of sound like when you turn a speaker up too loud and it's going to blow up! I can even hear it when the volume if down at the lowest setting. It's perfect when just talking but even the saws in the background on the lowest volume give me a right headache. I've mucked around with the settings in the app but doesn't seem to make a difference. 

Any advice before I switch back to the Smh10? 

Thanks for the advice, I was hoping I'd be able to bring it up to the. New model spec and never look back! Between this saw and my 540xp (has been great for years, but giving me grief starting now) I just want to give up. Temperature is hanging around 30 degrees here though, which probably isn't helping. 

Hey Spud, thanks for the reply, great to hear advice from a wizard such as yourself. I'm wondering if can upgrade to the newer version of the carb I think I've seen you talking about? I probably won't be able to source it in NZ but have a family member coming over in a few weeks, I could get stuff posted to them to bring out. Can you make any recommendations? Much appreciated. 

Hi from the other side of the world! My dear little 2511 is getting more troublesome with age. It is leaning out spazmodically, and has been back and forth from the local chainsaw shop. Its never held a tune for a really long time, but seems to have gotten worse. Should I be looking for an air leak or is it more likely to be carb related?

Check out 'the educated climber' Facebook page and podcasts on Spotify. He has certain books that he recommends too. He's Canadian though so probably won't help with tree I.D.

I guess there is no reason why you couldn't, but you wouldn't get the side to side motion which the bridge provides. Good for ascent I'd imagine but I went for the regular Sequoia (2019) because I felt the SRT version was more cluttered and restrictive.

Totally different rope. The original Cougar rope is polyester cover and polyester core. Very low elongation (2%). The CE version has a nylon core, with enough stretch to conform to the CE standards. I have used the CE rope and its fine but way stretchy in SRT configuration.

The chain brake 'off' action on the 395xp (well, at least on my saw) is terrible. I believe that this is pretty normal, and I always attributed it to the old design with the one sided lever mount. However; recently I used a 3120xp, which has the same style mount, and the brake is much MUCH better.

Video here

I wondered for a minute if the two side covers were interchangeable, but after a quick look side by side they are obviously not. Then I went away and wondered if it was a shorter/weaker spring. I ordered the 3120xp spring just to compare them. The 3120xp chainbrake spring was longer, and larger diameter, so not a direct swap and unlikely that it is 'weaker'.

Has anyone got any ideas on rectifying this? I am aware that modifying a safety feature really isn't ideal, but the brake is currently so difficult to operate that you tend to just ignore it.

Have you researched the products already available?

Another awesome video brother!

Recently landed in New Zealand and working in Auckland. Absolutly loving it!
 
 

I have a ring and swivel on my bridge, I mainly use a knut hitch, I only have a problem when using a VT. (I haven't studied if the phenomenon happens on SRT with swivel and VT), I switch between hitches, rings, swivels and techniques depending on how I feel.

Im having issues with the app, can't open it just get a network error. Been the same for at least a couple weeks. Tried a clean install twice, restarting phone etc. Same on wifi and 4g. Might be my end, but anyone else had issues?

Have a search for my thread on cheap Bluetooth comms, I think posted instructions for installing.

I've a 2014 mk1 540 still on original rear AV spring ? only recently had issues, slight carb fault easily fixed. Only done 110 hours though they tell me.

Also have a 2511, both are good, both have their quirks.

The cheap ones function well. Mainly durability is the problem. Most units can connect 3 coms. I had a cheap set, worked great for 2 weeks, then stopped charging. Not saying they are all like that mind. Bought Sena smh 10 since, hard to think how we did it without them.

The visor works well I've found