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thetoolnut

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Posts posted by thetoolnut

  1. I gave it a blast of compressed air when it started acting up on me, the gear moves freely as well. I'll strip it down and give it a clean when I get a chance, ????

  2. An update on my oiler issue, I purchased a H.O oiler on Ebay from America. I fitted it and test fired the 660, oiling perfectly, ?? Obviously the original oiler was faulty. I'll hang onto it and strip it down when I get time. If I can get it working it would do on a smaller bar. Thanks lads, ???

    • Like 1
  3. Try to talk the client into removing them and planting something nice instead. Failing that get a hoist if there's access. Failing that you could use a SRS system with a big shot to get your line in. Use a B.A and then you'd don't have to climb up thought the dirty bastards. A ladder is an option but it would need to be tied off to the tree and you'd need to be tied in twice as per industry best practice. Add an extra 20% to the price because what ever way you look at it Lelandi are feckin horrible, ????????

  4. 3 minutes ago, struie said:

    HAHA, the wood burner is in my new shed,thankfully it went up before the lurgy,20ft by10,already tryin to figure out how to extend lol,all chainsaws up on the shelves,climbin n riggin gear in bags or hung up,bed in for the dog, startn to think they should build climbers sheds oot o rubber,sqeeeeez more gear in.

    That's the job, like I always say 'house's are for women, a man needs a workshop with a bed, toilet, shower, wood stove and a small kitchen'. ?????

    • Like 1
  5. 14 minutes ago, Stubby said:

    They are considdered a consumable  in the same way the powermate rim is . just work fatigue .

    Indeed, the older 261's were notorious for it. Dry needle bearings apparently, according to my local Stihl dealer they should be greased at the end of every Day. Easier with the out board clutch's on the 550/560/562. I grease all my needle bearings at the end of every job. 

  6. 1 hour ago, struie said:

    that sounds the dugs balls to me,was thinking along those lines,think you have it well sussed.im lucky here,at my back door is a good mix of woodland,some big sycamore with a big spread up top,i just hope they dont have a total clampdown,already had a dry run at gettn the log splitter and a ton or so logs into our back kitchen,sister no happy,women eh.

    Ah good man, plenty of time for rec climbing now so there is, ? Sycamore is nice to climb especially when it's mature. It's a great time for experimentation with new systems. She'll be glad of the heat from that timber if we get a cold snap. I'd be handing her the maul and I'd be telling her to get cracking with the splitting, ?????

    • Haha 1
  7. 5 minutes ago, Wonky said:

    I think you will find it’s the 661\462 and more than likely the 500i Oiler’s.

    not the 660. If you want to mod the still oiler it’s a case of taking the pump apart and faffing about with the ramp.

     

    one other way is to just buy the ho oiler parts and swap them, you can see  it’s listed in the ipl 

    when you see the prices it may make your choice of way forward for you.

    i will add the ipl pic but you can google it for the whole doc.

    Thanks, top man, ?

  8. 18 minutes ago, Stubby said:

    I also have a 395 and preferred it over my now sold 3120 .  I do like the old 394/395 family of saws .

    Indeed, anyone who has a newish 390/395/3120 has the last of them.

  9. 1 minute ago, Stubby said:

    I do have a Spud ported 390 as it goes .

    That's a nice saw I'd say, I've used a 395 in the past. A bit of a pig in my opinion, it lacks the graceful lines of the 390 and 660/661. Function or form?? Both are equally important in my book. 

  10. On 29/03/2020 at 17:33, spudulike said:

    On oiling, if the saw is fired up with no bar, you should get a good solid dribble of oil running down the side of the saw in a few seconds.

    My usual inspection is to check the bar oiler hole....you would be surprised, just done a MS150 and it was blocked!!!

    Spin the clutch off, check the oiler arm isn't loose on the plastic pinion and grips the pinion well. Check the END of the oiler arm, they often wear off especially when the drum is a bit wobbly.

    If this is all OK then the oil pump comes off, check the oil pickup filter and pipe isn't blocked - the tank should be fine if you have flushed it. Check the plastic pinion thread is good - VERY unlikely it has failed on this machine model.

    The pump...if you put the drive shaft in certain positions, carb cleaner/WD40 can generally be forced passed it if sprayed down the outlet hole so try that, look down the holes and you can use a compressor on it. The plug will be on the inlet side of the pump if plugged. You can use a bit of fuel line pushed against the holes and blow through them.

    If the pump is clear and the spray goes through a bit easy then if the machine is high hours then it may be the pump is bad - the steel pump shaft can wear the alloy it sits in and after a time, it will stop pumping with any force so a new one will be needed.

    If that doesn't work.....panic:w00t:

     

    Did you ever hear of a pin on a 660 oiler that if modified can increase the flow Spud?? ?

  11. On 29/03/2020 at 15:51, Wonky said:

    I’m not sure I’m reading your poast Wright, all still oily things work the same here’s a pic  look at the pic o gram on the metal

    in real life they all work the same  9 till 12 or 3 till 6  depending on which way you look at it. My pic is clockwise increasing oil flow.  A 1/4 of a turn is min to full

     

    there is a mod you can do,, if you’ve got the time (we’ve all got time at the mo) and a few tools... but it is easy to mess it up.. after all the normal pump stroke is 0.9mm and the ho is just a measly 0.3mm more at 1.2mm.

     

    any how check the pic and report back if you got it back to front or I read your poast back to front,,, 

     

    btw I need a better hobby than drinking, as there is bugger all to do now days ???

    If you fancy trying the mod I can’t point you to the right place..?

    A977AFBA-E845-4087-8B26-DA5703354B3F.jpeg

    I turned my 660 on it's side, clutch cover facing up with the bar on my right. I turned the adjustment screw all the way to the right (clockwise). Going by your picture above that should be fully open. The Stihl oil pump adjustment screws seem to be counter intuitive. One would assume turning the screw hard right would be closing off the flow. I prefer the oiler adjustment on my 372, I give it three or four turns anti-clockwise and it oils a 24" Oregon powermatch with full skip chain no problem. Far be it from me to be throwing petrol on the whole Stihl v Husky debate! ??

  12. 2 hours ago, Joe Newton said:

    Isn't there something you can do on the 660s to open the oiler up more? Something about a pin that can be pushed in?

    Yup, I remember reading about that somewhere. It might have been the Arboristsite.com.

  13. 21 minutes ago, struie said:

    i,the new zz is bigger than the old one,but its so smooth on drt.been thinkin on srt for a while now,didnt like the idea of the anchor down the back o the tree,so it would be canopy tie in once up their,what system you on toolnut.

    I climb mostly MRS with the older Z.Z and a H.C setup. That said I have an SRS setup that I use to access larger conifers and some broad leaves for pruning jobs. I use a B.A with a running Bowline with a yosimite tie off coupled with a R.W setup. I agree with your caution re: the B.A. I wouldn't use it on a rigging job for example. It's hard to beat SRS for access and then switching over to MRS to work the tree.

  14. 7 minutes ago, struie said:

    hey toolnut,how u doin, have the new petzal zigzag,been climbing on it afew months now,but, was wondering if i needed the rope wrench with it,so will give that ac iss 16 a look,cheers my friend.

    Not bad now, thanks, ? How are you keeping? The new Z.Z with the Chicane looks the tits, apart from it looking a bit clunky. Haven't had a chance to use one yet, another shiney bit of kit for my list! ???

  15. On 22/03/2020 at 06:04, struie said:

    aright troops,been thinking for a while now of going over to srt,[age thing] would you need to use the rope wrench with the zigzag,have hunted through the vids on utube,mostly dan thearborist but cant find one that relates to the zigzag and rope wrench,any advice would be gratefully appreciated,cheers guys.

    Petal have a new Z.Z out which is compatible with MRS and SRS. There's a review of it in Arbclimber issue sixteen.

  16. On 26/04/2013 at 21:00, Matt McAulay said:

    Had my weavers for just over 5 years did very well tough as old boots I'd lowered off the side ds, odd bit of baler twine made it last a couple more months till I got a petzl sequoia had that 4 years and the bridge and several others bits had pretty much worn through now use stein vega.

    Baler twine! ??

  17. On 28/02/2020 at 11:57, TIMON said:

    Stein RC 3001 here, good solid and simple to use and get ussd to.

     

    Couldn’t get on with a portawrap, I’ve never met a groundie that liked using them,

     

    Yup, ? I have my eyes on the 3001 with the winch, ? Those porta wraps are old hat, just like those double locking snaps the yanks use on Lanyard's, ?

    • Like 1

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