tonytree

If the först cereal packet warranty won't cover you because of the copper grease, I very much doubt they'd honour anything else if you went else where for the bearing change 
 
might be be worth exploring the cost of an engineering report to contest the suggested grease leading to blade faliure excuse, if of course you can be without the machine for a while 

8 hour job to knock two bearings off n reset the flywheel ? Shit, must be a slow day in that workshop , you providing the tea n biscuits for him as well ?? K

They are in hemel hempstead. They supply belts and bearings. I got all my belts and bearings for my entec refurb from them, and fitted them myself. Is suspect it will be a big job, lots to remove to get to them, and you may need a press to put the bearing in. So I take it that price he quoted was supplied and fitted, not just the cost of the bearing?

I had to double check your post there, 1300?
There is a place near me,  take in an old bearing and they can match it up.
I had some very unusual roller bearings on the crusher that were horrendous price from the manufacturer, around 200 a pop. This place supplied them 50 each. 

Slight thread resurrection here....
 
But I had to share some snaps of my shiny new Protos helmet! Cue piss taking but I don't care!
 
 

Well after a lengthy debate they are not budging.

It won’t be covered under warranty due to the copper grease and he said himself the torque was correct at 310nm. I explained I think it’s ridiculous.

I was told on Friday the bearing could go so best to change it, he was going to get me a quote Monday. Monday no call, Tuesday I called said I’d get a return call nothing. So today I called them and finally get a returned call.

For a company to pride there selfs on dealer support I think is bad. They have had the chipper since the 16 June.

I’m being quoted 1300 odd plus vat for a flywheel bearing which I think is on the expensive side.

Can anyone comment on the price of the bearing as I thought it was a straight forward job

4 hours ago, GA Groundcare said:

Lubricated threads and dry threads torqued to the same setting will give a different tightness. But not to the effect of snapping blades. If that’s correct they should 100% have a decal saying only torque dry, that commonly chosen method of lubricating threads shouldn’t carry a risk of killing someone / damaging the machine. 

 

That must of been what I was getting confused with torque and tightness.As you say though I don’t think the tightness would be that great it would cause a blade to snap. 
 

3 hours ago, treeclimber26 said:

Hi Mick,

ive just had the same with my Forst st6p. I greased the bolts and as standard practice for blade replacement we did it. In the manual on blade change section says nothing at all not to grease. My machine is wrecked and probably going to be over £8k in damages . They now tell me it’s not covered in warranty. The bolts snapped but blade fine

Yours isn’t a blue one by any chance as he mentioned it when on the phone as he asked if mine was the blue one. 

5 hours ago, doobin said:

So which dealer told you that?

That was forst

On 02/07/2020 at 12:06, GA Groundcare said:

Super easy to test your torque wrench. Put it in the vice, add a chosen weight, say 50 lb at 1 foot away from the drive, set it to 50 lbft and if it clicks, jobs a goodun. 

Thanks I’ll have to try that. 
 

update on the chipper and I’ve never heard of this and was wondering if anyone else has.
 

Apparently the blade snap was caused by me using copper grease on the bolts as it increases the torque by 40% or something along these lines. 
 

Unless I’ve understood him wrong I can’t see how copper grease would effect the torque.

now I’ve always been told to use copper grease when changing chipper blades as it stop the bolt from seizing. 
 

anyway it needs a new flywheel bearing due to the impact. 

I do a bit of sub contracting would never try to steal the contractors client.

If you was subbing to me and did it, you wouldn’t have any more work from me.

I’ve been ask before but always pointed them in the contractors direction or got a card out of their truck.

Stupid really because in my opinion it’ll be the single and extra cabs that are more likely to be worked.

The ranger 3.2 wildtrack is available in extra cab in Europe and the new hilux 2.8 will be only for double cabs

Pretty sure they are only available in double cabs in the uk

I use loads of dumpy bags inside one dumpy bag that works well

I use Sylvagen they are pretty good but don’t expect to make much from it

Do you get your torque wrench calibrated? Do you put it back to zero after use? If you dont it could be miles off as it stretches the spring over time (or so I was told anyway). I bought a new torque wrench after I found this out. 

3 hours ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Stuff happens, it’s a pretty violent process.

 

No damage to the anvils?

I haven’t had a good look and taken them out but they seem fine and there isn’t any play in the flywheel bearing so that’s good. 
 

2 hours ago, PeteB said:

Sure nothing bad went through to start it off? Was the infeed speed too high and the blade was being asked to par off too much in one bite? 

I 'ring' blades before fitting them, my old arboreater used a few blades and we learnt after a similar failure to check before fitting. A dull ring and that set was put aside!

I’m positive nothing went through beforehand hand as for the roller speed It wasn’t set high. I’ve never heard of that method so I’ll definitely be trying it next time. 
 

3 hours ago, Stubby said:

Take the broken bits to a tool room and get them tested on a Rockwell hardness tester . Check that result against the spec . Looking at the fracture I would say that was at least 62 Rockwell C .

Don’t mean to sound ignorant but where would I find the spec the blades Rockwell hardness should be?

Do you have a rough idea on what Rockwell the should be?

thanks 

Yeah always clean them

Working on Friday all going ahead of schedule until the chipper blade broke. All bolts where to the correct torque, sharp and are genuine blades.

Has this happened to anyone else just trying to work out why it happened. Nothing was put through it apart from an ash log when it happened 

Any updates on this saw I can’t decide between this and the stihl 151. Any recommendations? 

Some trees I can see why home owners do themselves ( I have nothing against it), others I don’t see why they take the risk to save a few quid. Yours sounds like the latter.

Good on you for getting it done though but to put something into perspective we took down a tree roughly around the same size as you described.

Long story short the client tried to tackle the tree themselves a couple of years ago, took off too big of branch and it chucked them out the tree. They landed on block paving and shattered both of there legs and haven’t walked the same since

You have an email address for them? I'll see if I can get a quote

Anyone had any dealings with a company called "Haven fabrication" I've inquired about prices to convert my hilux and seems reasonable and fairly local to me. Found them on Ebay

Just had mine done by MCB body builders based in Tipton. Excellent value for money got mine done for just under 3k with VAT

Mine looks the same as aspens, looks like they have welded it onto the end of the chassis

I was with these I think they used to be called Ed first. Total waste of money I only was with them a year and didn’t even get one phone call