benbound

Good system, thanks for that

I like the look of that technique, do you split into a pile then load afterwards? I did something a bit similar with the bucket on the telehandler but I picked up so much mud an crap I didn't do it again. Of course I want you to say it works really well so I can justify to myself buying a nice new digger!!!

Sounds like you may need to fit an electrical ballast to get the voltages correct on the trailer electrics, they're only a few quid on eBay. I'm not an electrician so please don't ask any difficult follow up questions! I had a similar issue retro fitting led rear lights on an oils truck

That's really helpful, thanks very much

Thanks very much, I'll PM you before is commit if that's ok

Looking to upgrade the WP36 this year and am looking hard at the Transaw 350 from Fuelwood with the Japa 3 chain log deck. Just wondering if anyone on here is using a similar setup and can give any feedback, also comparison with the Posch s 360 which seems like it's nearest competitor. Happy new year all!

If you work the other way, a cubic metre of loose logs tends to work out at 0.65 to 0.7 m3 when stacked. So find the internal volume of the crates you are buying and that should be a good guide. Crates I've had in the past have broken down to about 2 3/4 metres but again it depends on your crate size as they aren't all euro pallets.

Nice set up, looks like it will even cut your hair when you pick up the logs off the saw!!

+1 for the piranha chain, fantastic stay sharp quality and at a disposable price I don't even bother sharpening them just stick a new one on every couple of days.

That's useful thanks. There is clearly an optimum point to be reached in terms of airflow-v-tempertaure. Too much airlflow and you'll never reach the optimum tempertaure to drive water from wood. Also hi airflow seems to make the outside of a log dry but you don't get the much needed penetration of water release deep into the log which we all need. For logs that are pretty well seasoned and just need the rainwater removing to make them saleable I think high airflow is the way to go and worry less about high temps. If you're drying green wood, I don't think that anything other than high tempertaure is going to do it in a reasonable time. It would be good to see some science applied to this, can't find much on the interwebs.

Those numbers are interesting thanks. I suppose the other issue is where you have the temp sensor as there seems to be a bit of a temperature gradient from top to bottom. Interesting about the logs going orange, not coma across that yet

I've been running piranha chain from northern arb on my processor for two days. Chains cost me £8 ish plus vat each. I've got to say I'm seriously impressed. I'm cutting oak that's been skidded out of a clay rich forest and is really filthy. Still sharp after 25 cube. Not even worth sharpening at that price!

I'm into my second season of kiln drying using a hot air system in a 20' container. I'm finding that stuff dries nicely from 30 degrees and above, if I really crank things up I can hit 50 degrees but even with a second heat source struggle to get above that. Just wondering what other peoples' experiences were and if trying to go higher reaches the point of diminishing returns?

Great tool once you get the hang of it, if you get the angle wrong they will rip chunks out of your workpiece, that said once you get the feel for how it cuts, it makes a really nice cut and makes quick work of the most arduous material removal. Do wear a good pair of gloves though and good all round eye protection is a must, those chips come out at a serious rate, enough to bring up a rash on your hand so your eyes haven't got a chance if you get a direct hit!